I looked into this, and it turns out that almost all aspects of starting or turning off a car are governed by a federal requirements document called FMVSS 114. Things that are in there:
Steering wheel lock
That little button you have to squeeze on the gear shifter to take it out of park
Can't remove key unless you are in park
Vehicle can't roll when key is ...
As JPhi1618 mentioned, this functionality centers around CFR 571.114, AKA FMVSS 114. Specifically section 5.2.1 which states:
Except as specified in S5.2.3, the starting system required by S5.1 must prevent key removal when tested according to the procedures in S6, unless the transmission or gear selection control is locked in “park” or becomes locked in “...
It could work exactly the same as a keyed ignition, in which case your starter motor would engage, but manufacturers (and I think this is true for all) have added a simple piece of logic which only engages the starter if the engine is not already running.
This would be the ideal solution for keyed ignition as well, but it has only been in ...
There may be other reasons but without a doubt a big part of it is because it's impossible to predict under what conditions the car no longer detects the key. And as stated in some of the comments, that could be while driving down the highway, or on the street at just the wrong moment.
Hope that helps!
Your BCM receives the signal
Nissan uses what is called a BCM or body control module.
The BCM on your car controls the following
Security (key fob synchronization, door locks)
There are other attributes as well not on my list but to answer your question, it's the BCM.
For the remote entry receiver see number 11 in the diagram below.
The interior key antenna is located under the center console number 13 and inputs to the body control module seen in number 1 of the diagram.
That is a dealer ID tag. The salesman and managers use it to check keys in and out. They should have taken it off of the key before they handed it to you. If you don't want it, just take it off and throw it away (if the dealership sucked) or take it off and return it if you feel extra nice.
EDIT: Here is the webpage for them. Their claim is inventory ...
Not a specific answer for a Toyota Prius, but:
This summer, we had an incident here in Germany, where the motor stopped after throwing the key out of the window.
There's an online police report, so this is not a hoax.
Here is my short translation:
A 33 year old mother was driving her VW Passat on the highway (German "Autobahn") A1 near Lübeck with her ...
No, it will not stop mid-ride. It will warn you the key is no longer in the car, but as long as you don't turn it off, it will keep running until you run out of gas or the car battery dies. It would be a safety hazard for it to randomly die, or even a slow turn off. Imagine if you were on a 65mph high way when it happens, or in the middle of an intersection.
Your concern is valid. This article gives a good description of the weakness of smart keys. A man in the middle attack can fool the car to think that the key is inside allowing it to start. Once the car is running it won't shut off if the key leaves the car. These keys are battery powered and if that battery dies while you are driving on the highway it may ...
I rented a ford mustang, while reaching to adjust the a/c controls while driving on the interstate my finger accidentally hit the stop start button and at 70 mph the engine immediately shut down.
The only way to restart was to coast across 3 lanes of traffic, stop the car, put it in park, put my foot on the brake and push the start button.
I can't believe ...
In most cars it's not the key remembering the car, but the car remembering the key. Your Volvo should be no different. Reading through your owners manual, it gives no warnings about taking this to the dealer for battery replacement, but rather gives you the owner instructions on how to change out the battery.
Here is the page taken from the owners manual:
There are two things I can think of.
First, the car might have lost the remote. Meaning that it no longer recognizes that the remote and must relearn it (through programming or whatever).
Second, it could just be that the remote is broken and no longer works. Do you have other remotes which work? Is there an indicator light on the remote showing it is ...
Early keyless ignitions varied by manufacturer, but nowadays most don't just let you turn the car off. Typically it's a 3-5 second hold. Today, all the OEM keyless ignition buttons are software controlled, they aren't directly connected to the starter.
Due to recent "unintended acceleration" events and hoo-haa, a standard "3 second hold" has become the norm....
Automotive keyless entry systems typically operate at either 315MHz or 433MHz. If you use an RTL-SDR you can pickup the signals. There are also aftermarket antennas specifically tuned to pickup these signals. Depending on the transmitter, you may also be able to get an antenna+decoder pair that will decode/decrypt the (probably) encrypted signal.
If that happened to me, I would double check the battery for voltage when pressing the FOB buttons, and I would also check the battery contacts for possible corrosion.
It sounds like the plastic FOB is attenuating the signal below noise, which tell me that the radiated signal is very very low.
Alternatively, there could be a hairline crack in the circuit ...
The only way to do this is to have the keys programmed to the car. The only way to do that is to take it to the dealership. They have the necessary tools which are proprietary. Only they have them. Yes, it's a racket.
Looking online, the only difference I see as to what you are doing and what is suggested is to turn the key eight times within 10 seconds. It may be you are not getting all of the key turns in within the allotted time. For the entire sequence, the following steps are applicable (so others know when looking):
Have all transmitters available before starting, ...
Older Honda keyfobs have a US quarter sized circle on the back with a groove in it. Stick a quarter (or your equivalently sized currency) in the groove and use it like a screwdriver. It will probably have an arrow on it, but if not anti-clockwise is the correct way to turn it. It will turn about ¼ of the way around and then you can pop it out (slap it ...
This sounds very much like a 'dry' solder joint on the battery connector. If you're a dab hand with a soldering iron, go to and re-solder the battery contacts. If not, go see your local watchmaker or IT hobbyist who should be able to solder for you. If it's just a surface carbon buildup, try a cleaner like 'CO Contact Cleaner'
It seems obvious you are having some frequency interference.
According to the Auto Service Professional website's article on Interference for keyless entry, "Some aftermarket devices can cause frequency interference".
This would explain why you only have the issue when the other vehicle (with aftermarket accessories) is park near yours. As the article ...
Sounds like we can assume the problem as follows: The unlock signal, whether it comes from the fob or the door switch, is failing to complete the circuit somewhere between the unlock module, and the first door. Whether the doors are wired in series or parallel, the fault is clearly upstream of, or at the point where they commonly connect to get the unlock ...
My "fleet" consists of a pair of 2013 Rav4EVs with keyless "ignition" that also has the touch sensor on the door handles. When my wife arrived this evening, I had her lock the doors with the vehicle in the running mode.
No key fob in my pocket and the doors remained locked.
With the power off, no key fob, the doors remained locked. Obviously, her fob was ...
It is pure and simple a safety thing.
The American law given above doesn't spell it out explicitly, but that is the goal of the given regulations - prevent accidental shutoffs while the vehicle is in motion so as to avoid potentially fatal accidents.
In Germany, the law is much the same though from what I've heard the phrasing is more explicit - the cars ...
Since the key-less entry system operates via wireless signals without physical contact to the ignition system.... You may be able to use tinfoil to cover the key so that the signal that the key puts out may not be boosted.
The key-less systems seem very similar to RFID cards if not the same. I think that they have RFID technology in Europe for awhile now. ...
I had the same problem - only worked very close to the ignition column. I soldered two thin wires from the battery to the board, and hey presto - fixed!
The problem seems to be worn out pads on the board where the battery spring make contact.
If your car did not come with a keyless entry system whatsoever (as in no fob or buttons) you can purchase an aftermarket keyless entry system to install in your car. If you have power locks it will be easier to install.
Shop around at dealerships and local vehicle audio shops. Often, a dealership will charge several times what a local shop will charge to ...
After a long research I was pretty sure that the problem was the electric contacts: I tried conductive gel, then I tried to fold the metallic plates more than the previous state. Every try was working for few times, then stop working. I finally solved soldering small wires for + and - battery contatcs. Now it works perfectly.