It is totally possible. Combustion chambers are quite small and it doesn't take much fluid to fill one up.
As the piston goes down during the intake cycle, a vacuum is created and anything in the intake will be sucked in. During the compression cycle, if fluid has been injected it has to go somewhere since it can't be compressed.
A little bit of it will ...
It sounds as though you were low on oil, but not out of oil. Your MS6 requires around 5.5-6 quarts of oil, so if you dumped three quarts in to get it up to level, you still had nearly three quarts in it. While this isn't optimal, it's definitely not bone dry. This is part of the reason your oil light didn't come on. That and the fact most "idiot lights" don'...
tl;dr: Sadly, that tire appears to be a goner. The wheel is likely fine, though. You might be able to replace just the one tire.
If you look at the divot cut out of the side of the tire, you'll see a distinct color and texture difference in that center portion. It appears that you've removed all the surface rubber in that area. All of the insulating ...
Yes. If the engine ingests water, you have a big problem: water is incompressible. When water gets into a cylinder, it will be forced out through the path of least resistance: the head gasket. And that's if you're lucky.
If the water isn't squeezed out, you get hydraulic lock and the piston rod will bend or break.
I agree with your praise for this car, I had one back in the day and I have never loved a car as much since.
To get more from this Wankel powered beauty, it's all about two things:
Getting it to breath better
Replacing parts that won't take the higher RPM
The good news is that the only part that needs to be replaced, is the RPM gauge sender on the face ...
What you are more than likely seeing is condensation from your A/C unit. The drain for these are usually located on the passenger side of the car about where the firewall is at (just behind the engine). This is completely normal.
Just replace it.
You're talking about a car from 1997. If you don't know when the fuel filter was replaced, I'm inclined to believe that it hasn't ever been changed. Very quick Googling shows me that a 323 fuel filter from that timeframe costs less than $20 USD.
If you really wanted to assure yourself that it's a problematic filter, you could ...
No. Not by any significant or even measurable amount. Constantly using the shifter may, over time, wear the bushes and linkages prematurely but these parts are usually inexpensive and simple to replace. The transmission itself will be unaffected.
I'd be asking if the car was put on a chassis rig when it was repaired. If it's even had just one day on a rig, it was clearly enough of an impact that made the assessor/repairer think it might be a write-off.
If it wasn't put on a chassis rig, the next thing to look at are signs of welding along the forward chassis, particularly radiator support and crash ...
My first thought is that the belt(s) that drive the accessories (alternator and power steering) slipped due to being wet. As for the check gauges light that came on later, I don't know. When it came on, did you catch which gauges where high or low?
When you visit your dealership, have them (and join in if you're allowed into the shop) examine the oil after it's drained. This is important to ask beforehand since some shops use a large funnel/collection tank apparatus that is placed under the car when it's on a hoist. If such a contraption is used, it's hard to view the oil as it flows, and it's ...
I think you threw a wheel weight.
Let's consider this quote from the great Wikipedia:
When the wheel rotates, asymmetries of mass may cause it to hop or
wobble, which can cause ride disturbances, usually vertical and
lateral vibrations. It can also result in a wobbling of the steering
wheel or of the entire vehicle. The ride disturbance, due to
I don't know if I deserve all this credit. My idea was sound, but my measurements were pretty bad so my numbers are way off.
If you try this, use the more precise software that Robert S. Barnes ended up using and don't rely on a YouTube video to measure a belt spinning at 200 RPM!
In your first video, the timing belt is going through 1 revolution per ...
A simple test that you can perform in your own driveway is:
For each corner of the car, push down hard several times (the car should be bouncing visibly up and down)
When pushed down, release and watch
The car should bounce upwards (above the normal resting point) and then immediately settle at the resting point. Additional bouncing indicates worn or faulty ...
Before jumping to conclusions, you could take the rocker cover off and see whether the chain is still connected. The fact that you were able to turn the engine over for a while quickly without it jamming may suggest that the chain snapped. The valve gear may be in a safe position and it could possibly just be the chain that is now jammed.
They really are that simple - as long as you torque them correctly, there isn't a lot that can go wrong. They are designed to be as straightforward as possible - they don't require calibration, measurement etc.
Make sure the connector is securely on the top of the spark plug, and make sure you don't get oil or grease on the contacts. And do them one at a ...
Just like with any other internal combustion engine, there are two ways to increase power output: add more cubic inches of displacement; make the motor think it has a larger displacement.
The rotary engine (Wankel) is a different breed. You cannot just bore/stroke the engine like with other piston based engines, so you have to go a ...
You said "the dealer tells me that the car was likely rebuilt." The dealer should know for a fact that the car was rebuilt and issued a salvaged title, if not, walk away. On top of that, if the seller is slow, hesitant, or unwilling to comply with any of your requests for information about, or access to the vehicle, walk away.
The most common damage in deer ...
I'm afraid I have some bad news for you. Assuming that your alarm is a Thatcham approved alarm and was installed by an approved installer, it must disable the vehicle at a minimum of three different points. Additionally the Thatcham specification stipulates the entire alarm loom must be black.
Even if it's a lesser, non-Thatcham alarm, the biggest issue ...
Apparently, this is the Mazda limp home mode. If you check that link, two common causes are:
Bad ABV solenoids
In discussing with your mechanic, I would suggest first having them scan for codes to see what is triggering the limp mode.
The question is can I just go out and buy any 17mm bolt that is the
same length as the current one,
or is there some kind of material
Think about the jobs that those bolts are doing: they support the steady state mass of the vehicle and the transient spring loads of the transmission. That means that those bolts need to be ...
The oil stuff is more than likely caused from what the intake pulls out of the crank case through the PCV. If you can get a hold of a couple cans of Seafoam, this should take care of the residue about as easy as you can do it without taking the engine apart. Use the rubber hose to the right of the photo to introduce it into your system. As an engine gets ...
Mow much money do you have? :D
In all seriousness:
Swap in a later 13B engine and give it a fresh rebuild.
Install a Racing Beat header and exhaust system.
The Racing Beat intake is also pretty good. Mind you, this is setup for the upper rev range.
Put a good carburetor on it, like a Holley 600 (mechanical secondaries).
Do not remove the belt driven fan!
First off, no, you do not need to disconnect anything else. If the key is NOT in the ignition, there is no electricity going through these connectors.
So, basically in the image below:
Green Arrows: Pry up gently with a flat tip screwdriver to release these catches. Pull gently on the electrical cable as you do this to disconnect.
Yellow Arrows: Screws, ...
My gut says it's likely to related to either a dodgy throttle position sensor or a faulty air mass meter. Whilst it is reporting no errors, it's worth doing diagnosis such as resetting the throttle position (sorry, I'm not sure how this is done on this car) and checking things like coolant temperatures reported by the ECU against guestimated values.
If it ...
Unfortunately, there are many, many things that can cause a rough idle. I'll try to cover a few things that might help with the diagnosis. I'm sure that there are many others that could be added.
Like I mentioned in my comment, it's definitely not the fuel filter. If a fuel filter was bad enough to affect idle it would stall instead of accelerate.
A vacuum ...
It sounds to me like a dead battery.
Depending on how accurate your voltmeter is, what you see as 12V may be 11.9V or lower. To give you an idea, an open circuit battery terminal voltage of 11.7V indicates a completely uncharged battery.
What you are describing happened to me once with a Volvo car, due to a faulty switch in the glove-box; the glove-box ...