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31

While I cannot see the back rotors very well, I can tell you without a doubt, the front rotors are brand new. You can still see the crosshatching on the surface which means it was prepped. It doesn't show any wear at all. The rear brakes (from what I can see) are in good condition as well, though appear to be a bit older and more used. The misconception you ...


22

A rounded bolt is not a reason to junk a car. The numbers you're quoting sound fine for an alternator; if it was below 12V, I'd be worried. If you're still concerned, take the car to a spares store and ask them to check the battery and alternator. When it does come time to change the alternator, getting the bolt off would not take a lot of extra time; there ...


10

The most likely cause is that the cable that runs down to the starter motor has been rubbing against the body or the engine and has worn through the insulation.


9

Usually the bolts that strut braces attach to are the ones that attach the strut assembly to the car. The spring is held in place in the strut assembly by the nut in the middle, which I have never needed to remove to install any strut braces. See how the brace below has a hole in the middle for the top shock nut: This shock nut holds the upper spring perch ...


9

If your car ramps are high enough, you should be able to. The other option, depending where you live, is to find a mechanic who has a pit. I understand they are illegal in some places, so you may not be able to find one. As a side-note: if your car's frame is really that rusty, you might want to work on it before the floor falls through.


9

There is absolutely no way your car is still driving while being too rusted to lift properly. The car is holding it's own weight when it's on the ground, right? It only needs to hold it's own weight when up in the air, right? Your mechanic just imagines that your bleeder valves are rusted shut (and they might be), so he's using the lift as an excuse. Find ...


9

Okay. Lot's of research, long story, found the answer, don't like it. Overall design of the Nissan B13: one of the things that always impressed me about this vehicle is that it seems to have been designed with the DIY home mechanic in mind. Components are accessible and tasks can typically be accomplished using only 2 different wrench sizes, and maybe a ...


9

Couple of notes on how to read this manual. A White wrench in a black square has the units N-m (kg-m, ft-lb) A Black wrench in a white square has the units N-m (kg-m, in-lb) So - the bolt very top left in your diagram should be tightened to 51 inch pounds (i.e, 4.25 ft-lbs - not very tight!). The nut on the left immediately below that bolt should be ...


8

My process is generally: - 70-80 mph = coast to 60 - 50-60 mph = switch overdrive off, RPMs jump to ~3500, engine brake to 25 - 20-25 mph = shift from "D" (assuming 3rd gear here) to "L" (assuming 1st and 2nd) This gets me down to about 10 mph, and I've never seen the RPMs go anywhere close to red line. If this is your procedure, you're well ...


8

There's nothing wrong with your rotors as far as can be seen from your pictures, it's totally normal to have the edges rusty, it doesn't impair them. What's important is that the disk surfaces are in good condition, that is the part that's going to be in contact with the pad, and yours seems fine. There looks to be a good amount of metal left as well.


7

Firstly, You should not pump the brakes with any of the pads missing - as you have discovered, this results in the pistons being forced out of the calipers! You probably then found that the piston wasn't quite square in the caliper, and re-settled once you had removed it. I take it you have now removed the offending caliper from the car? (if not, do so now ...


7

Are you talking about the in-cabin air filter, or the engine air filter? In either case, the answer is no. I mean you can do it, but the filter will not work like it is supposed to afterwards. The reason for this is they are made of paper. When you get them wet like you are suggesting, it destroys the element. As to the why you have to change them, once ...


7

It's not a huge deal. The biggest thing you'd be looking for is if there is leakage from there. It's not going to be causing any running issues or any such. I think the biggest thing would be if the stick was fitting deeper into the hole and giving you a false reading as far as oil level. If it's too low in the hole, it would appear you'd have more oil ...


7

Possibilities include: Oil spilled on exhaust during the Oil Change (as mentioned in the comments by DucatiKiller). This can be new oil from filling, or old oil from the drain and/or filter replacement. Overfilling with replacement oil can result in burn-off. Check the oil level, check multiple reliable sources for the correct fill amount, and check the PCV ...


7

This is not a serious issue. You can probably even get by using 0W-30, especially since you are in an area which is usually warm. If you were in a colder area up north somewhere, I'd highly suggest you change it out. If you do decide to change it out, don't worry too much about the filter. I'd take the filter down and drain out what's in it, but put some ...


7

The transmission and its control systems will not be damaged by this practice. Safety could be compromised if the shifter is left in this position. The park lock will not be engaged so the vehicle could roll away. This is a system internal to the transmission that is a back-up to the parking brake. It is important to move the shifter back to the P position ...


7

The parts labelled RING-BAULK (32604 in your image) are the synchronizers. Do a search for Baulk Ring and you will find some descriptions. For example - https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=DoYaRsNFlEYC&pg=PA286&lpg=PA286&dq=BAULK+ring&source=bl&ots=3PXYSDFriB&sig=WHMXOOAG06AIShqixrw1w1K1hro&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiszKbql-...


7

Since this variable displacement compressor features only a clutch coil cable and no solenoid valve cables, it's "internally controlled", that is, it doesn't require any control at all from an external source to operate (this kind of variable displacement compressor necessarily requires a clutch, otherwise the AC system would basically be always on; instead, ...


7

Assuming you are looking to overcome the hood failing to release, I see some corrosion where the hood loop is held. That can cause it to bind and hold it from releasing. Add some grease here. In fact, the whole latch needs to be lubricated.


7

Sounds like a dead short, one large enough like that should be easily visible, either through burn marks on a metal edge or bracket or a hole in the insulation. Check and follow all the main or thick wires.


6

If you are looking for a reasonable price and original (used) quality, I would try a pick 'n' pull type of place. Are you sure that the armrest is made to come off of the door panel? There may be a reason they only sell the door panel ...


6

The only thing I see of any real concern here would be the left rear toe - it's off enough to possibly cause some tire wear. However, since it can't be adjusted, your best bet is to just rotate the tires regularly (every other oil change is a good rule of thumb) and keep an eye out for wear. You didn't say which Nissan you're driving, but I'm assuming it's ...


6

You will be able to get the pigtail from the dealer. It's the connector and about 12 inches of wire. They are used to repair harnesses.


6

Most vehicles with a standard transmission now use a hydraulic clutch. The clutch system consists of a reservoir with master cylinder, some tubing, and a slave cylinder. It works in a similar manner as your brakes. Pushing the pedal forces a fluid into the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder applies a force to the throw out bearing which causes the clutch to ...


6

It really looks like it's down to the switch, if the high beams work normally (Not just using flash to pass) and both low beams quit at the same time, and you are positive the bulbs are good. The one thing that can fail that would take out both low beams is the switch. Everything in yellow below is good based on your description of what works. The pink ...


6

My friend faced a similar issue on his '03 Nissan Maxima. In his case we discovered that the brake pedal switch was not making any contact with the pedal linkage. The switch relies on contact with the linkage to break the brake light circuit. If there is no contact with the switch (like when the brake pedal is pressed) the switch will complete the circuit ...


6

Not familiar with your vehicle/engine specifically, but familiar with carbed engines in general. I would think the #1 thing to look at would be the choke. Pumping before starting a carb vehicle is normal. It gives it a squirt of fuel and sets the choke. The low RPM indicates that the high idle is not set, which likely means the choke is not set also. ...


6

Good question. While they both employ the same engine, there is a list of several other variables that come into play here. Different vehicles are constructed with different ideas in mind when in comes to towing capacity. The axles of the vehicle, the braking system, the steering system, and the suspension of the vehicle along with their various associated ...


6

I would thoroughly look at the battery cables again. While the clicking noise usually indicates a battery that is too weak to start the vehicle, the battery would not be able to build up enough power to start if it just sits there like you described. This leads me to believe that the problem is something else. Take your battery cables completely off and ...


6

I have seen somebody spot-weld a short bolt to the rounded nut they are having trouble removing. It's cheap and quick if the equipment is on hand.


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