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17

I looked into this, and it turns out that almost all aspects of starting or turning off a car are governed by a federal requirements document called FMVSS 114. Things that are in there: Steering wheel lock That little button you have to squeeze on the gear shifter to take it out of park Can't remove key unless you are in park Vehicle can't roll when key is ...


14

As JPhi1618 mentioned, this functionality centers around CFR 571.114, AKA FMVSS 114. Specifically section 5.2.1 which states: Except as specified in S5.2.3, the starting system required by S5.1 must prevent key removal when tested according to the procedures in S6, unless the transmission or gear selection control is locked in “park” or becomes locked in “...


13

If you can access the electronics soon after they get wet, the chances are pretty good to keep it working. Unfortunately, after all this time, it's kind of a long shot. There are three major things that happen when you get a circuit board wet: The battery voltage can short across to the wrong parts of the circuit. This will cause it to fail, but seldom ...


13

Use some Sugru on it It's rubbery in consistency so it won't just snap off when you drop your keys. Use a piece of metal or plastic for the "crossbar" and sugru around it.


9

I found these instructions on a forum. After several tries, I was able to get both the ignition and keyless entry to work. Make sure you have on your original key and have looked on the back for a black toyota logo. This WILL NOT work for the smart keys with the SILVER toyota logo. (Yes it Does for a 2009 Prius. Also BIG Thing: Have only the old remote ...


9

I believe your Elantra has a switch under the hood which detects if it is latched or not. All of the doors, trunk lid/rear hatch, and hood must be closed or the "beep" will not occur. Since you stated the hood was somewhat smashed, it may not be "closing" the switch telling it the hood is down. In other words, your car's security system may be operating ...


8

There may be other reasons but without a doubt a big part of it is because it's impossible to predict under what conditions the car no longer detects the key. And as stated in some of the comments, that could be while driving down the highway, or on the street at just the wrong moment. Hope that helps!


8

I have had a similar issue with remote controls before. Just for completeness, I've already listed two things you've already tried -- they're primarily for anyone who reads this some time in the future. Replace the battery You already know this one, but it's the easiest and most typical fix. It's also pretty inexpensive, so a good thing to try. If you get ...


7

I found 2003 and 2005 manuals online. It says that the central locking switch on the dash unlocks all three doors. Once unlocked, you should be able to push the button in the outside door handle, which is the lip above the license/number plate. In the case of an electrical malfunction, you can lift the base of the rear seat, and there is a ring on a cable ...


7

Why not build up the back of the key with araldite [epoxy] and then drill that?


7

Seems a horn was damaged. Some cars use the vehicle's horn to "beep" as a response. Others use a separate horn. Pop the hood and look in the front grille area. Use the diagram below to guide you. Do the following: Check the horn connector. Is it fully connected? Is the horn connector broken? Is the horn itself broken? A smashed horn might still work at ...


7

The transmission and its control systems will not be damaged by this practice. Safety could be compromised if the shifter is left in this position. The park lock will not be engaged so the vehicle could roll away. This is a system internal to the transmission that is a back-up to the parking brake. It is important to move the shifter back to the P position ...


6

You're going to need a new key, as used, already programmed keys will not work. You'll have to get your dealer to order the key as they're not keys your dealer or mechanic can make. You'll need to know your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and bring two forms of ID (in my experience) to get a new key; they're very picky about giving out new blank keys, so ...


6

I accidentally ran the smart key for my '09 Jaguar XF supercharged sedan through the washing machine once. It was submerged in water for about 10 minutes until I found it. I was able to fix it by opening the shell and removing all the contents. A ran a blow dryer over all the pieces until they were completely dry (at least they appeared to be) before putting ...


5

I found the following on the iKeyless website, which indicates that you cannot program the key yourself and would need the dealer or a locksmith to do it. Key Cutting/Programming: Programming instructions are not included. This device requires cutting and programming by a dealership or locksmith. The procedure takes only a few seconds to complete and ...


5

I would venture to guess that it's a overprotective starter lockout circuit. Get something else to plug into the outlet (map light, different changer, inverter, fan...) and see what happens. If it works with a different device plugged in then it's your charger. I don't know why it would behave that way but it's worth a shot.


5

Any key that has already been programmed to a Mercdes will never work in any other car. Once a key has been "flashed" or programmed to one car you can't reprogram the key. Mercedes keys pair "for life", so once you stick a key in the ignition and it works, it's never going to work in another car. It is true that a Mercedes can accept new keys; when you get ...


5

I tried again, this time connecting the positive battery lead to the low-amp solenoid input terminal (which was harder to reach -- that's why I didn't try it before) instead of directly to the starter motor, and it started just fine. So presumably the solenoid must be actuating some kind of mechanical linkage between the starter motor and engine rather than ...


5

When you turn the car off and remove the key, make sure the steering is not turned to one side. If you leave the car with the wheels turned you may load up the steering lock as the steering geometry tries to straighten up. You are able to get round this in the circumstances you describe by 'rocking' the steering wheel to relieve the loading on the lock as ...


5

That is a dealer ID tag. The salesman and managers use it to check keys in and out. They should have taken it off of the key before they handed it to you. If you don't want it, just take it off and throw it away (if the dealership sucked) or take it off and return it if you feel extra nice. EDIT: Here is the webpage for them. Their claim is inventory ...


5

In most cars it's not the key remembering the car, but the car remembering the key. Your Volvo should be no different. Reading through your owners manual, it gives no warnings about taking this to the dealer for battery replacement, but rather gives you the owner instructions on how to change out the battery. Here is the page taken from the owners manual:


4

The keys don't necessarily need a rubber head to be 'smart keys', some embed a small resistor inside of them that isn't very noticeable. The fact that the cylinder turns at all means the grooves aren't too worn, etc. It either matches the lock wafers or it doesn't. I would look online for a programming method for new keys. It's likely that the battery went ...


4

I know my vehicle is equipped with a battery load monitor. When the computer (I assume the body control module) senses a load above some factory set value for more than 10 minutes with the engine off, it disables the power circuit. To reset it requires cycling the ignition switch. Turn the key to start nothing happens, turning the key a second type returns ...


4

This varies a lot by model, era etc., but a general overview: The first thing that happens is the ancilliary electrical systems are powered: Lights Radio (often the radio will be permanently wired, but this varies) Windscreen wipers Dashboard gauges Fans Anything that runs off switched ignition but also the Engine control unit, or ECU, which is what ...


4

this is a key that the transponder went out on, cut it down with a razor knife. the transponder is a black magnet looking thing, I have it marked in white. as you can see, plenty of room on the upper for hole drilling


4

A little late, but: Another option, if you can find one that fits, is a rubber key cover that slips over the top of the key. Arbitrary example (not necessarily a fit for your key): These should work pretty well right out of the box and not require you to physically modify or repair your key.


4

I think the easiest way to disable it would be to take the fob apart and put a very small piece of tape on the contacts for the button. This would make it so you could reverse this without too much issue if you decided to sell the car. Most car fobs (at least like the one you show in the link) will split in two to replace the battery. This also gives you ...


4

A pretty safe fuse protected accessory circuit in your car is the one that powers your audio system. According to this information, you're looking for the following wires: Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Violet Car Radio Ground Wire: Black By tapping into these wires, you can safely add a low power accessory circuit. Alternatively, if you need more ...


4

If you are looking for a method by which you can diagnose the problem to confirm your suspicions that one of your keys has failed I can suggest the following. In close proximity to the ignition barrel, literally around the outer radius, is an RFID reader. When you place the key in the ignition, this energies and attempts to rear the transponder code from ...


4

You need to find a way to open the door, slim jim or other tool. Once the door is open you need to remove the lock cylinder to get the broken key out. Depending on the vehicle how hard or easy this is. The cylinder may have been damaged and would need replaced and re-pinned to your key, this would require a locksmith. If you can remove the lock cylinder ...


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