In the same way that you don't technically "need" to replace tyres or shock absorbers in pairs, I would suggest it best practice to replace the other mounts. If one has worn to the point of failure, it will be presumably the same age as the others. Plus the rather dramatic failure plus the extra stress placed on the other mounts leading up to the failure, ...
I believe this is the part you are looking for:
If so, it's called a rocker arm. The most probable reason for its demise is metal fatigue or maybe it just broke.
Looking at this forum (and others), it appears that these were designed to fail in case of catastrophic cam belt failure. With that in mind, it's not inconceivable that one of them has broken just ...
USB adapters typically do still have current draw.
I discovered this on my return from a two week holiday. I'd left my USB adapters plugged in and my battery was dead...
Admittedly I had 5 3A USB ports - they weren't supplying current to devices, but I guess the current draw from 5 unused ports is enough to drain the battery in that space of time.
So for ...
The yellow wire needs to be connected to +12 volts all the time (even with the car off), it sounds like you have this wire connected to switch power. This is the memory wire for the radio that allows it to retain settings when the car is off.
I may be wrong on the color of the wire, I was basing my information on the manual provided by Phillips here (PDF ...
If the bubbles are in the fuel line that leads to the high pressure pump, then air in the system would reduce the pumps ability to pressurise the fuel correctly. Diesel injectors require high pressure fuel in order to achieve proper atomisation; liquids don't burn, so the fuel needs to enter the cylinder in very fine droplets in order for a clean burn to ...
OK, so I've fixed it.
After posting my question here and since my feeling was that the problem seems to be related to some air bubbles in the fuel system, I've decided to take out the fuel filter, drain all the diesel fuel, fill it manually (by using 10ml syringe since I hadn't a manual pump) with diesel and mount it back.
I've tried to start the engine ...
Will this cause any kind of damage or faults to the car?
It won't cause too many issues, but does cause extra wear/tear on the drivetrain. Your transmission/clutch/flywheel weren't really designed to be doing this all the time, so they'll take the brunt of it.
Why doesn't the car jerk in this method compared to normal way with the key all the way turned ...
If the fix is to keep the oxygen sensors working, in normal operation you won't notice anything. If the sensors were to become unavailable (i.e. a car in an unpatched state) you would see poor performance, poor fuel economy and reduced catalytic converter life. The final risk is that it would cause the vehicle to fail it's annual MOT emissions test. Also, ...
While deleting the catalytic converter ("cat") will not "break the engine", it is extremely unlikely that removing the system will cure the check engine light.
The description of the code will give a clue as to what the correct course of action should be. Possibilities include:
a clogged catalytic converter that should be replaced (not removed altogether!)
If you can check on your own, then check the following
Fuse(s) for horn (check if they are not blown)
Horn relay (check if you can hear the relay getting actuated when you press the horn)
If horn relay is working fine, then you need to check the wiring from the relay to horn and if that is ok, check the horns
If relay is not getting actuated, then there ...
In order of precedence:
Ball joint boot
No. 1 Priority: I'm not sure if the Peugeot has an interference motor, but will assume it does since most vehicles these days are built as interference motors. An interference motor is one where the pistons and valve train occupy the same space inside the engine, but at different times. The ...
Your Peugeot cruise control is 'speed sensitive'. Sixth gear cruise control requires a road speed of 70-75 MPH. The gearbox computes the gear required to maintain a given road speed, if you select a gear to high for the speed you are doing cruise control is switched 'off', to prevent the engine from labouring.
Just because the OBD says it's an O2 sensor, doesn't necessarily make it so. Some diagnostic codes are pretty simple & to-the-point. But, the logic baked into the computer also has rules like "if this, and also that, but not this other thing, then blame [widget]." But the engineers who designed it all didn't necessarily cover perfectly all the bad ...
I managed to pull over and change to the spare wheel in about 30
minutes (having never changed a tire before! Lesson learned!)
Well done. It's not the world's most challenging job but you can hurt yourself if you're stressed (say after a blowout).
Whilst driving after the jump start and while the battery was still
very low on power, I noticed that when I ...
Problem solved, here are two problems I had to fix
The ECU option is the one after the BSI one, it doesn't have ECU in its name, just a code.
If your cruise control stick does not have speed limit, do not activate it on BSI or in ECU.
Does anyone knows how to trick the limit to allow it to work in 3rd gear under 35mph?
Apparently it was diagnosed by a specialist that there is a hardware / software problem with the ECU (Magneti Marelli) that is causing all this problems, and needs to be changed. There is nothing wrong with the sensors, coil pack or mechanical parts.
is there any sealant to stop engine oil leak to radiator
or do I need to replace cylinder-head-gasket?
Yes. But also you need to have the head and the block checked for warping. They head might need to be re-surfaced.
I worried about this too, because my Audi A4 (B7 2005 model) has an always on cigarette lighter.
My other car, a VW, is newer and has what I will call "traditional" functionality of it being on only when ignition is on.
I have a had a charger plugged in all the time, never drained the battery. (And yes the charger is on as it has a LED ...
It sounds like the car is unable to maintain sufficient pressure in the fuel rail.
Have a look at this answer for more details on potential causes for hot start problems.
The reason why this happens only for hot starts is because the fuel is more likely to vaporize as temperature increases. In order to avoid vaporization problems the fuel lines are ...
It is possible, but it needs a lot of work and probably has to be done by a professional.
First, you need to get the automatic panel with the LED screen. Then you need to change lots of wirings and stuff. The most difficult part is changing the air outlets. On the manual models the air outlets (the ones you use to let the air from outside in you car) are ...
Factory repair manual is a bit sketchy about it, but here what it says (translated from Russian version):
Put the roof in the intermediate position (I suppose, somewhere in the middle between fully open and fully closed).
Cut out (?) and remove the carpet (1 on the figure). That cutting out bit puzzles me. Maybe, just pull out from under the trim?
It's not just the cover that would need to be replaced. Normally they also have gaskets or rubber seals around them to stop any dirt getting into the engine itself or escaping from the engine.
It may be you are being quoted for a cam cover, seal kit, oil and oil filter + labour.
What you need to ask for is a breakdown of what the costs are from the ...
Got a mechanic to look at it for me. Turns out that it was just stuck after all the bad weather that has been going on for the past few weeks and he fixed it by hitting the wire with a wrench a couple of times.
Check what happens when the hazard light is switched on. If hazard works correctly then the problem could be with the combination switch(light). It is better to get it replaced at the workshop is my suggestion
Do you know if the belt has already been changed, and if so, at what mileage? If it hasn't been done, I'd suggest it is worth doing - they usually need it at between 80 and 100k - the correct interval should be in your handbook.
No, the MOT doesn't check the condition - You can't generally check it without dismantling anything, as it's usually hidden ...
This sounds very much like a 'dry' solder joint on the battery connector. If you're a dab hand with a soldering iron, go to and re-solder the battery contacts. If not, go see your local watchmaker or IT hobbyist who should be able to solder for you. If it's just a surface carbon buildup, try a cleaner like 'CO Contact Cleaner'
Most probably, you need an alignment. The part of alignment which causes your wheel to return to center is called caster (the other two major portions of alignment are toe-in and camber). Here is a representation of the caster alignment:
This website gives a pretty good explanation of caster and how it affects driving in your car:
When you turn the ...
Without a photo I would take a guess at it being a rocker arm. It could have snapped due to age related stresses, or as you said you may have a valve problem. A sticking valve could be caused by a lack of coolant in the head or maybe a lack of lubricant.