Hot answers tagged

8

It is ALWAYS good to get a second opinion. I would highly recommend taking it to another shop and have them tell you what they think it is even if you believe the first shop to be right. That being said, there are a couple of things you can do at home to try and diagnose a head gasket problem yourself. Look to see if white smoke is coming out of the ...


7

This actually ended up being a very simple problem. Something so simple that I'm almost in disbelief. My car has been running nearly straight antifreeze.(I'd say about 90% anyway) Everyone I'd talked to locally has said it should run even cooler doing that... but they're wrong. I emptied my expansion tank(not the radiator itself) and filled it with ...


7

Regarding the tangent, yes, an ill-fitting dipstick can be the cause of a vacuum leak. Pulling out the dipstick is a way mechanics can figure out if the car is suffering from unmetered air/vacuum leaks. If there's no immediate change in RPM, there's a leak somewhere. I think what's happening is that the car runs fine under cold-start enrichment because ...


6

You can easily test a relay in a few simple steps. The required materials are as follows Digital Multimeter (with continuity setting) 12V power supply (Optional) Aligator clips for hands-free testing DO NOT USE YOUR BATTERY DIRECTLY FOR THE 12V SUPPLY, if you have nothing on hand and want to be safe please use a fused line from a harness or through the ...


6

The most common cause of backfiring in MAF driven cars is an air leak in the intake system. This causes the engine to misread how much air is entering the engine, and too much or too little fuel is injected as a result. If any fuel is unburned it will enter the exhaust system. Eventually this left over fuel can ignite. But, you mentioned it had a sticking ...


6

The vibration from the engine and driving will cause fretting which will wear away at the metal of the radiator. The softer metal will wear faster and will eventually make a hole in the base, most probably causing the base to crack and support for the radiator structure to fail. Fit the rubber feet : you may find that all you need to do is to release the ...


5

Why are you assuming that the fuse is only for the AC fan? It seems really strange that only one of the fans would have a fuse on its circuit. Replace the fuse, since you'll have to do it anyway - if the fan still doesn't come on, then start looking at other possible causes.


5

That is called the Engine Crankcase Ventilation Hose ... The part number is 24467120 and is #18 in this diagram:


5

That is way too much money for a serpentine belt and a tensioner pulley on any vehicle. If you cannot do this yourself, take it to a different mechanic and have them do it. A serpentine belt is not at all critical to the overall health of the engine. If it fails, you put a new one on. It may be inconvenient after it breaks, but it's not going to ruin ...


5

Disabling an air bag component doesn't seem like a good idea. I think on some systems if you disable a piece of it, it can disable the whole system. I'm not any kind of an expert but messing with an airbag system seems like it could be very dangerous to you or your passengers.


5

Pretty urgent. Less urgent than say, having no friction material left on your brakes but way more urgent than any regular servicing. Driving around with a dying bearing will hurt both economy and safety but mostly safety. If the wheel is not a driven one (e.g. if it's the front wheel and your car is rear wheel drive) it's possible for the hub (and wheel) to ...


5

Keep in mind that you can have a low battery and not be able to crank the engine, but still have enough to run some of the interior electrical parts like the one you mentioned. The fact that it's only been an hour since the car last ran makes the soft battery a likely candidate. The key (as mentioned in the comments) is whether the engine is cranking or not. ...


5

Oh wow, there's definitely something funky going on with the electrical system. With regards to the P0563 and P0621, have you tried getting a live reading of the voltage from your scan tool or a multimeter when the car is running? My advice - get a decent automotive electrician on the case. Your run of the mill mechanic isn't the right person for the job


5

No, you can still have air trapped in the rear caliper/wheel cylinder. Removing the line could introduce air to the caliper or wheel cylinder. Unfortunately, this means you might end up replacing your rear calipers / wheel cylinders also. It has happened to me a number of times. Be sure to spray it with some good penetrating oil and use a 6 point socket.


5

Wheelbase is the distance from center of front wheel to center of rear wheel.


5

Sounds more like a problem with the ignition switch, possibly some kind of interference with the steering wheel lock. Do you usually park on the street with your wheels turned? If so, maybe try to make sure your wheels are pointed straight before you shut off the car. This should take the binding out of the steering linkage and put less stress on the ...


5

Is the car on the floor? Many vehicles, I'm not sure if yours does for certain, feature a brake bias apportioning valve which is essentially a "tap" which opens or closes depending on the position of the rear beam axle. If the car is heavily loaded (i.e. has people in the rear seats and a boot / trunk full of cargo), more braking force is sent to the rear ...


5

As @Paulster2 indicated, you likely have a clogged drain, you can use some wire or I prefer metal pipe cleaners. In addition, you should remove a plug that was installed by the factory incorrectly per a service bulletin to prevent reoccurence. You can see below I have posted the core contents for you at the bottom. Stand over the front passenger wheel, ...


4

It can be done with a power source and a standard VOM. Apply appropriate power source to appropriate pins while listening for click and looking for the desired effect (could be presence vs. absence of voltage or continuity/lack of) on the VOM which would be attached to the appropriate pins. You'll want a repair manual to find out what to replace "...


4

Follow the vehicle's designated maintenance schedule. If it says you should change the automatic transmission fluid at a mileage near or below 120k, then change it. If not, then don't. The manual for your 2004 Pontiac Vibe states: Change automatic transaxle fluid every 60,000 miles (100 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of ...


4

If the engine is warm, the air flow through the heater core is off, and one side of the heater core isn't burning hot like the other, then there's a good chance your heater core has debris in it causing it to block. If your thermostat was stuck open, there's a good chance the engine wouldn't be able to come up to temperature especially on a cold day. If it'...


4

Most cars can be "reset" by disconnecting the battery for 20 to 30 minutes. I would caution that this is going to reset your car's clock and make the OEM radio unit ask you for a PIN code before you can use it again. Make sure you have this info before you do this. You're also going to trigger an alarm if you take too long before disconnecting the battery (...


4

Just need to replace the master cylinder, the booster should be fine. The piston in the master cylinder is bad and is leaking against the booster. That's the only place for the fluid to come out.


4

No that's not the location. It's in the thermostat housing (attached to the engine) that the outlet radiator hose attaches too. This hose runs from the right side (passenger side) of the radiator to the engine. Drain the cooling system Remove the air cleaner outlet duct Remove the radiator outlet hose from the thermostat housing Remove the bolt and bolt/...


4

Referencing the photo it appears the retaining clip is still in place. At the 12 o'clock position you will notice a square shaped tag. Lifting the tab away from the bracket pry the clip in the direction of the small hole that the tab sat in. Again referencing the photo this would be going up. With the amount of corrosion visible I would try to wire brush ...


4

Turns out what went wrong was my car was turning on the brights (highs) when I would go to unlock it, and the regular (lows) headlights were never working. I thought the car was turning on the lows when I went to unlock it. New bulbs fixed the problem. Little anecdote: I was extra perplexed when I was pulled over at night for driving using my fog lights, ...


4

One of your connections at the battery is bad. Your vehicle should most likely be a side post battery. Loosen the battery bolt a little, wiggle the connections, then tighten it back down and see if that helps. Ensure both sides are tight.


4

Your procedure for bleeding is fine, except for the banjo bolt You can bleed a line at the banjo bolt but you can't bleed a caliper. You can get your stuck nipple off if you break the head by using a bolt extractor. If you use a bolt extractor and have to drill it out in any way you will NEED to disassemble the caliper to ensure it does not have any metal ...


4

Mitchell shows original equipment plugs are ACDelco 41-962 for the 5.3, which are double platinum plugs. Plug gap is 0.040". I've never used nor sold Bosch plugs before. From talking to people, I've never heard anything good. Make sure the plug gap is correct and that the wires are fully seated. If you still feel that the car is not performing as well as ...


4

Wouldn't hurt to get a second opinion. However, be careful if you try diagnosing yourself. If coolant is leaking into one of the cylinders and you try starting the car you could hydro-lock the engine and bend a connecting rod which is obviously more money to fix. Before turning over the engine, pull the spark plugs out and turn the engine over by hand ...


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