Regarding the tangent, yes, an ill-fitting dipstick can be the cause of a vacuum leak.
Pulling out the dipstick is a way mechanics can figure out if the car is suffering from unmetered air/vacuum leaks. If there's no immediate change in RPM, there's a leak somewhere.
I think what's happening is that the car runs fine under cold-start enrichment because ...
The most common cause of backfiring in MAF driven cars is an air leak in the intake system. This causes the engine to misread how much air is entering the engine, and too much or too little fuel is injected as a result. If any fuel is unburned it will enter the exhaust system. Eventually this left over fuel can ignite.
But, you mentioned it had a sticking ...
Having spent a few years in a shop I completely understand LKQ not honoring a warranty for this engine.
In their warranty document it's pretty clear that almost nothing is covered.
The way the manufacturer looks at the aftermarket turbo is this.
If you are increasing the volumetric efficiency beyond what the engine was intended to handle regarding power ...
Oh wow, there's definitely something funky going on with the electrical system.
With regards to the P0563 and P0621, have you tried getting a live reading of the voltage from your scan tool or a multimeter when the car is running?
My advice - get a decent automotive electrician on the case. Your run of the mill mechanic isn't the right person for the job
I would use wire (welding rod is a good candidate) or small springs to "hook" the chain either side - obviously the top part stays loose but the bottom part around the lower sprocket stays firmly in place.
P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1) (Immature)
P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected (History) (Immature)
Potential vacuum leak: I can hear a steady hissing sound near the intake manifold
Also, it idles high (around 1500 RPM) most of the time.
All of the above are symptoms of unmetered air making it's way into the cylinders. The ...
Since the issue happens only when the clutch is engaged the problem is not with the engine, flywheel, or pressure plate. Since it isn't speed dependent, but RPM dependent, we can eliminate the drive train behind the transmission. Since your transmission didn't have an issue prior to the clutch install, I believe we can eliminate that as well. The only thing ...
I'm pretty sure the electronics on your wiper motor has gone bad (or is going bad). The switch in the cockpit is there to instruct the wiper electronics what your intention is. When you turn the wiper on, it commands the motor to do its thing. If the wipers are coming on of their own volition, it's because the electronics are telling the motor to come on. ...
Depending on the design of the turbo kit and installation, it could be due to the turbo blow off valve, if it is vented externally and not back into the intake upstream, you could smell gas briefly when it discharges turbo pressure on a hard deceleration.
So, here's the difference between the Solstice and Malibu dipsticks (both 2.4L LE5)
The shorter one with the larger diameter, bright yellow handle is from the Solstice. Fortunately it was still in the shop on one of the old engines.
But, in the process of chasing this, I found that I hadn't tightened two of the four bolts holding the throttle body to the ...
Unless otherwise indicated with information included with the new compressor, add 4-6 ounces of the recommended oil into the suction side port of the compressor, rotate the compressor by hand in the direction it normally turns about 10 revolutions, install, evacuate and charge system.
Some compressors come with oil charge some do not, it is usually ...
To answer the question - moot at this point for you I'm sure, but this is a Question and Answer site after all - What looks and acts like a blown head gasket, resulting in coolant in the cylinder, when the head gasket is fine:
improperly torqued ore loose head bolts (torque them down in a pattern)
missing parts (o-rings, dowel pins, ...
I would suggest it's actually the battery which is at fault. A good battery should register about 13.1-13.5vdc when fully charged. When down to the low 12vdc region (and dropping into 11vdc area during attempted start), the battery really isn't at a good point as far as a charge goes. I'd take it to a parts store and have them load test it for you. They can ...
When I reinstalled the engine harness and connected it back to the engine bay fuse block, I didn't properly tighten the five bolts that secure the connectors to the fuse panel. Apparently it was therefor not correctly grounded.
Yay. Thanks everyone for the help!
Having cleaned the MAF, checked the O2 sensors, hunted all over for a vacuum leak (here's a hint - don't spray carb cleaner near a disconnected vacuum hose that's actually carrying positive pressure. Your eyes will not thank you), etc., I finally pulled the NEW cam actuators back out, and saw this:
On the left is the new Dorman exhaust cam actuator ...
To get this off the unanswered question list:
There was an intermittent break in the wiring harness near the MAP sensor. I removed the damaged section and lineman-spliced it, and this particular problem disappeared.
That is a lot of spark advance. It looks like its sitting at 5-7ish degrees, then pulls up to almost 30 suddenly. Thats way higher than any normal adjustment I've seen.
I added my own line onto your graph, and it looks like the voltage drop coincides with the start of the spark advance. Based on this, the fact that the MAP is suddenly blown, and the ...
The problem was the harness.
On this car, there is a short "injector harness" which drives the injectors and the MAP, and is separable from the main engine harness. A solder joint near the MAP sensor connector was flexing and causing an intermittent signal path.
I had another injector harness with an incorrect MAP connector, so I cut the connector off of ...
A lot of the symptoms sound like an air leak, which would fit with the p0455 error code. I would try to block off the evap connection to the air intake to see if that helps.
Why do I think this?
When you are accelerating gently, the ECU is probably adjusting the mixture to compensate for the extra unmetered air using the reading from the o2 sensor. When ...
So, that's not what is generally meant by a "boost leak" – a boost leak is on the compressor side of the turbocharger, compressed air that should be going into the engine is leaking out before it gets there. What you have is an exhaust leak before the turbo charger.
That said, I don't think your exhaust leak would cause the behavior you're describing (but ...