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32

Engines have an "engine stamp." Find it, write down the numbers on it and call the Mazda Head Office for your region (delearship can't always help for this). They will tell you which car the engine was previously installed in, if any. Also, licensed mechanics don't buy parts off eBay, they buy parts from reputable distributors, both for warranty purposes ...


15

What you are more than likely seeing is condensation from your A/C unit. The drain for these are usually located on the passenger side of the car about where the firewall is at (just behind the engine). This is completely normal.


13

No. Not by any significant or even measurable amount. Constantly using the shifter may, over time, wear the bushes and linkages prematurely but these parts are usually inexpensive and simple to replace. The transmission itself will be unaffected.


10

Before jumping to conclusions, you could take the rocker cover off and see whether the chain is still connected. The fact that you were able to turn the engine over for a while quickly without it jamming may suggest that the chain snapped. The valve gear may be in a safe position and it could possibly just be the chain that is now jammed.


7

If the clutch cable was bad you wouldn't be able to put in in gear with the engine running. Based on what you have described you have a bad clutch.


7

My gut says it's likely to related to either a dodgy throttle position sensor or a faulty air mass meter. Whilst it is reporting no errors, it's worth doing diagnosis such as resetting the throttle position (sorry, I'm not sure how this is done on this car) and checking things like coolant temperatures reported by the ECU against guestimated values. If it ...


6

You might want to try if your メニュー option (Menu) has a 設定 (Settings) option and inside there, a 言語 (Language) option. If it does, then most likely you can switch between the default 日本語 (Japanese) and 英語 (English). If you don't find it there but you own the car, it could be a matter of researching what Pioneer unit you have and get an update, but chances ...


6

It could be argued that by putting the car in Park or Neutral, you are saving wear on the torque converter, which can be an expensive piece of equipment to replace. But I can't site any first-hand examples where that needed to be done, so again, the wear is likely negligible. :) I'd worry more about flushing your fluids and providing other regular ...


6

It shouldn't as stated above, but there are bushings and bearings that will get worn out, its probably better to just leave it in gear. Engineering Explained did a good review on this, so I recommend checking this out: Engineering Explained Automatic Transmission


6

IIRC on the 2.3 there is no keyway to keep the crank gear and balancer aligned. If the engine is spinning and has compression you probably spun the balancer and it's out of time. Set piston 1 at TDC and line the balancer up as indicated. I think this is an M6x1.0 bolt. This should be 20 teeth off the blank space on the balancer. Here's an example using ...


6

It definitely sounds like you have been ripped off. It honestly sounds like the old mechanic is up to no good. You can search the VIN which is stamped on a metal plate on the engine to make sure it is not stolen or money owed on it, which can be verified with Mazda. Another thing you can do is remove something external like the coil pack to see if there is ...


5

That is a dealer ID tag. The salesman and managers use it to check keys in and out. They should have taken it off of the key before they handed it to you. If you don't want it, just take it off and throw it away (if the dealership sucked) or take it off and return it if you feel extra nice. EDIT: Here is the webpage for them. Their claim is inventory ...


5

Pull down on the window with open hands or a big suction cup while someone operates the window switch, once it unsticks roll the window down all the way, then liberally spray the window channel rubbers with a high quality Silicone Spray. Let the spray dry then roll the window up and down several times. Depending how dry the channel rubbers are how many ...


5

Your problem could be caused by two things. A shitty car charger, they are not all created equal, or a ground loop. As far as the charger goes try several different ones, name brand ones tend to be the best (htc, iphone, samsung, etc...). If the problem goes away then it was the charger. As far as a ground loop, what happens is that the ground potential ...


5

I don't see how the timing chain could have jumped or broken in this situation. If the wrench was on the crank pully, and this is what stopped the engine, there was little to no force on the timing chain because there's little resistance on the cams. I'm guessing you probably damaged your starter gear or broke some teeth off of the flywheel, so the faster ...


5

Whoever said that these mounts commonly fail is entirely correct. These mounts are oil filled. The brown stuff on top is likely not hydraulic fluid. When the mounts fail they split along the bottom side and the fluid is lost from the bottom. This prevents the fluid from ending up on top. The absolutely best way to tell if the mount has failed is to unbolt ...


5

If you can depress the pedal and select gears with the engine running, but then don't have any drive once you have selected a gear, then I'm afraid it sounds very much like the clutch has gone. It's also possible that there has been a failure elsewhere in the transmission, but a clutch failure is probably more likely - other failures tend to make themselves ...


5

A few objective ways to do this: perform a compression test This will not help much if the engine was only slightly used but you would be on the lookout for wild discrepancies across the cylinders and compression values that are out of spec inspect the spark plugs for wear/fouling


5

You can do a quick and rough check by looking at the paint job – if the paint is fresh and the engine really is new the paint will be the factory color and there will be clean demarkation between what's painted and what's not. Some things to look for: There should be no overspray on the wiring harness or belts. Mating surfaces will often be masked and have ...


5

If the brake discs (rotors) were scored and weren't replaced or resurfaced then you will loose some of the contact between the brake pads and the discs until the pads wear to match the disc (the break in period that @Paulster2 mentions). Another possibility is different pad material. Or it is possible that some air was introduced into the system (unlikely ...


4

Got It fixed today, the main problem was the Battery (Didn't realize until I took it to a service center). Regarding my questions Is it because of low engine oil pressure the car is not starting up? Is it so automated in mazda 3 that car wont start? Well No, the model which I have at-least does not have this automatic feature to stop the car engine ...


4

More than likely the problem is the window motors are going bad. Most have a thermal switch in them (sort of like a resettable fuse) which will stop the motor from working when a heat threshold has been reached. There are several factors which cause this, including the grease thickening in the gears as it gets older. I've seen this in many different vehicles....


4

As you have already said, place the battery on a tender. Fill the gas tank completely. This prevents moisture from accumulating in the tank. They also make fuel stabilizer (Sta-bil is a common one) that you can add to the topped-off tank. It's not really needed for 12 months of storage, but it's cheap insurance. Placing the car on jack stands will take the ...


4

I would not use the vacuum line shown in your picture. The reason being, it looks to be plumbed off of only one intake runner (supporting a single cylinder). While this would work good for a vacuum source, it won't do for a SeaFoam treatment. If you were to use this, you'd only be supplying the SeaFoam to a single cylinder and not to all of them. You need a ...


4

You could try using a device like the one below to spray into the throttle body. It uses compressed air rather than aerosol propellants, and so is safer for the environment and likely available in your country.


4

No, the outside temperature sensor should not affect the HVAC. That sensor is only there to give you the outside temperature reading on your dash. Modern climate control systems use temperature sensor(s) inside the car to control the temperature. It wouldn't make sense for the system to be metering from outside temperature if it's below freezing outside, but ...


3

I've brought it to the mechanic yesterday and I got an update thru the phone that the problem was a P0700 error code that was thrown. He mentioned that before he continued to check the tcm he noted that even though the transmission oil was red, it was not feeling like oil(there is no water mixed but the oil feels less oily, based on how he described it to me)...


3

You have mold in the A/C system. To fix it, do the following; Remove the cabin air filters. Buy new ones - they're pretty cheap. Even if you don't want to buy new ones, however, still remove them. Open all the car windows. Turn the engine on, and put your A/C on at full speed, with fresh air selected (not recirculation) Get a can of Lysol or Ozium. Spray ...


3

It looks like the California emissions injectors flow more fuel and have a higher resistance. The design also looks different this could lead to fuel leaks. If you had a Federal emissions car it could also throw off the engine computer either resulting in running too rich or the car setting a circuit code.


3

Your car is either a California car or it is not. You can call the dealer and give them your VIN number and in order to have your vehicle identified. Once you know what your car is then you can purchase the proper fuel injector that is required for your vehicle rather than hoping that the cheap injector will work.


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