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22

First of all you're not smelling CO (carbon monoxide) as that is an odorless and colorless gas. What you are likely smelling are combustion byproducts and that is not at all uncommon in the engine oil. The transmission oil is another story and I suspect you are just smelling the oil itself. The thing I'd be concerned about is a sharp "burnt" smell that ...


8

If the motor oil has a distinct smell of exhaust fumes, it might also mean that the cylinder head gasket has become leaky. Transmission fluid should never smell of exhaust gases, but can get a certain burnt smell from the clutch pads.


8

Smelling AT fluid is (or did ) give a good hint of the transmission general condition , but it requires experience. The clutches and bands have material like brake pads and if they slip, they heat very quickly although running in oil , and have a "burned" smell.


2

Possibly. It depends on what is wrong with it and how the AWD is setup in the vehicle. About the only way this could work is if a rear drive line had gone out (like u-joints) and it was removed. The rear differential would free spin and the front wheels would provide the drive power. Overall, as compared to the rest of the system, the driveline is a ...


2

I believe your theory on the battery dying and then rebounding is one possibility and it's not uncommon for a nearly end-of-life battery or the unit it is powering to exhibit unpredictable behavior. The other possibility that comes to my mind is an intermittent connection, either to the battery or some other component in the sensor. In either case your ...


2

You are getting no power at all do any of your accessories and relays etc (based on your description of no sounds at all). This could be caused by some of the following (not an exhaustive list): Battery, the battery has failed and is unable to output power (you indicate yours is fine) Connection issue, a connection has failed somewhere preventing the ...


2

If the battery is that low, then some alternators, even if they are working correctly, will not start to charge properly or at all. Replace the battery with a known good one, then test the charging system thoroughly. That is the only way to check if the alternator is good. You could take the alternator off the vehicle and have it tested on a test bed but ...


1

This depends on the system. One with a centre differential can drive the front, or rear, only but must have the centre differential locked otherwise it will just spin... Vehicles that did not have a centre dif only need to be locked into 4wd and driven. Done both of the above as have broken rear halfshafts and got home doing exactly as described.


1

The only thing I can think that your so-called mechanic is talking about being a Toyota-specific part is the Crankshaft Pulley Holding Tool which is OEM part# 09213-54015, it's not exactly some arcane unicorn baby tooth that is hard to get a hold of. It's applicable to a wide range of Toyota engines and is easily available from either Toyota themselves (see ...


1

This is the second post about your car. You should state all the problems in one post for a better answer. Check the connections in the driver side panel for the window and the lock/unlock switches. Then trace back to the fuse box and look for loose connections or loose fuses.


1

Most electric window motors have thermal cut outs on them. When used, heat will build up in the motor. If they get too hot, the cut out comes into play and keeps the motor from moving so as to not damage the motor. When the motor sits for a period of time, the heat is dissipated and the motor is allowed to work once again. This may be what's happening to ...


1

There are a number of places oil can leak. Losing that much oil sounds like like it is certainly an oil leak and unlikely due to blow-by. If you are not confident in diagnosing and replacing seals yourself you will need a mechanic to do this. Look under and around the engine for places that look gunked up/really dirty, this will be the area the oil is ...


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