I have had a similar issue with remote controls before. Just for completeness, I've already listed two things you've already tried -- they're primarily for anyone who reads this some time in the future.
Replace the battery
You already know this one, but it's the easiest and most typical fix. It's also pretty inexpensive, so a good thing to try. If you get ...
If that happened to me, I would double check the battery for voltage when pressing the FOB buttons, and I would also check the battery contacts for possible corrosion.
It sounds like the plastic FOB is attenuating the signal below noise, which tell me that the radiated signal is very very low.
Alternatively, there could be a hairline crack in the circuit ...
I do not have any wiring diags for that car but you can tell its not a fuse since you are getting some voltage.
First thing is first you need to determine what voltage that motor is supposed to get and if it has a model number on the motor's casing you may be able to find that on Google. If it says 1.7V then there might be an issue with the brushes or some ...
I suspect the key has lost its "sync" to the diversity module. You can take the module apart (like you already have), and scrub it clean with high strength isopropyl, or even good vodka (but I feel this a waste.)
I know you said it was only dusty, but a good clean won't hurt anything. Beyond that, it's a dealer-only effort. This is coded RFID Bavarian ...
It looks like the only option other than an aftermarket system would be to goto a Toyota dealer or a independent shop with the Toyota TechStream Software and to enable this feature.
It looks like this option should be on by default but was never setup or was disabled for some reason.
It looks you may be able to do this from the Multi-Display.
If it's a 55 plate I assume it's either a very late Mk IV or most likely a Mk V. The Mk VI didn't start until 08.
I suspect that it's most likely to be a wiring issue with the module in the drivers door. This could be caused by a trapped wire within the wiring that goes through the A-post or (more likely) moisture / water ingress which is usually caused ...
The common sequence for VW is what you already tried, but you may have done it out of sequence. Follow in order to see if that help.
Insert master key into the ignition switch and turn the ignition
switch to the ON position.
Within 30 seconds, insert the 2nd key into the driver’s door lock and lock the driver’s door manually.
Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button
I'm not familiar with the VW Fox because I'm an American, but it sounds like the central locking controller could be at fault or a fuse for the locking mechanisms is blown. On the VW's that I have had, the key was mechanically connected to the lock mechanism, but from what I can tell, the platform your car is on has purely electric locks. So if you have a ...
I suggest you check the fuses with a meter as fuses can crack and look good but not work - they don’t have to be blown...
If you don’t have a meter ann AA battery with a small torch bulb is sufficient to test.
You start by isolating each component connected to that fuse / circuit and finding out which one is causing the drain.
A process of elimination and it helps if you approach this logically ie disconnect all and reconnect one component at a time.
One of three things are the probable cause of this. The first most likely cause is bent, loose, worn linkage or obstructions in the locking mechanism. The door panel must be removed and the linkage inspected for any of these conditions. The second most likely problem would be a worn lock actuator motor. The door panel will have to be removed to replace it. ...
It is very easy to connect an OBDII scanner that talks Bluetooth to your phone. I typically do this. However if you leave it attached, it does drain the battery...
There are companies that provide "security" systems for high end cars, and these allow remote access for a range of things, however after a friend of mine demonstrated this attack, I wouldn't ...
The flap lock mechanism is at least in my Polo a simple pneumatic pump.
Remove the side of the trunk liner behind the fuel flap.
It should be an pneumatic pump there with an air hose to the lock (the lock is a pin which is driven thru a wedge on the flap's inside.)
Hardware-wise, the linear actuator for the power lock has a grooved rod that locks and unlocks the door by moving the lever that you use to lock the door with. When you use your power lock, you are actually causing more wear because you are also using the electric motor.
The new remote needs to be programmed to the car. It should be in the owners manual, but I couldn't find one online. What I did find online, you can try the following;
Insert key into ignition and turn to RUN, not start
Wait 10 seconds
Press the lock button for 10 seconds
Turn the key to OFF.
Remove the key and wait for 10 seconds
Press the lock button, ...
These threads seem to suggest it's located to the rear of the dome light, behind the headliner.
Not all cars do this. I have personal experience with a 2011 Dodge Journey which uses keyless entry. When I pull the handle with the keys on me, the door automatically unlocks and it opens. However, if I try to open the locked door with the keys inside of the car... it won't open.
I'm not sure how that works, if the sensor is short range and only directed ...
It sounds a lot like the door switch on the drivers door is broken in a way that it gives the reverse indication of what's actually true.
Some things you can try:
Perform the same tests that you have listed, but open and close the passenger or one of the rear doors instead of the drivers door. I have a feeling they will work as expected.
Do you have the ...