Hitting a bump at speed can cause several problems:
Tire or wheel damage: generally this requires a replacement tire or wheel
Suspension damage: a suspension member could have been bent or damaged by the impact
Alignment problems: this isn't damage, just needs a re-alignment
Lost wheel balancing weights: this is easily fixed by getting the wheels re-...
One of two things I think could be happening here. One of your wheels might have thrown a weight and become unbalanced. Second thing to check is to see if you have any ice buildup on the inside of the rim which would also have caused an imbalance. (Not knowing if you are in a winter climate where you are would figure into the second part of this answer.) ...
Most likely, one of the engine mounts are 'torqued'. You can try and neutralize the mounts. Loosen the through bolts of all mounts several (4-5) turns. Then start the car, and drive back and forth several feet (using quick taps on the gas and not just idling) over and over, and let it rest at idle a few seconds before turning off the engine. Now tighten all ...
It can be very difficult to isolate if it is from the tires or the drive line.. but most of the time, it is the tires. Looking at the tires with the naked eye when there is no load on the tire is not very telling though. The best thing is to find a shop with a Hunter DSP 9000 or similar machine that measures so called road force. This will measure the tire ...
Tires, or a front wheel has thrown a balancing weight would be my first assumption. Examine both front tires for uneven wear, "cupping" (scalloped depressions where tread gets shallow in evenly spaced pockets around the circumference). If the tires appear fine everywhere, it may simply be that a balancing weight has come off.
After that, there might be a ...
Tires are out of balance, or possible a bent rim. Take it back to where the tires were put on and tell them you have a vibration.
If you have a vibration when you are using the brakes that goes away when you take your foot off the brake you may have warped rotors. I would take car of the tire balance issue first before addressing the rotors. You may only ...
Well, the new rotors and pads were the answer. I'm surprised that the EBC OEM replacements gave me so much trouble, but the new EBC Red Stuff (ceramic) pads and slotted rotors have been wonderful. Even with my typical hard braking, no noise, and better performance, too.
(Apologies for the delayed answer. I became sidetracked and completely forgot about this ...
It sounds like the flywheel is out of round, and no a flywheel doesn't typically come with the clutch.
He told me it's a single unit, so he didn't need to assemble the
individual parts together.
I am not sure exactly what that means, what parts exactly did he replace? A standard clutch job includes replacing the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing ...
The fact that you can feel the vibration in the steering wheel indicates the source is in the drivetrain, most probably something on the front axle.
A very common thing that could cause this is an out-of-balance wheel. The first thing I would do is have the wheels balanced.
More than likely, the clutch just isn't broken in yet (or bedded, for that matter). You need to not ride the clutch at all, don't over heat it, and don't try not to prolong it's usage during this period. It's common for a clutch to have some small amount of jidder while in this phase, so don't be surprised. Once it becomes evenly worn and broken in, you'll ...
The vibration at speed is very unlikely to be the alignment.
I would suggest getting your tires balanced. The most likely cause is that one is slightly out - perhaps a tire-weight fell off, or the wrong weight was put on last time you changed tires.
Bad alignment will eat your tyres faster than good alignment, but if all the shops you have been to say ...
I've had this problem with my Honda accord 96 for an entire year and just figured out what was causing the vibration in idle mode. Changed mounts, cleaned air idle control valve and throttle body . Took it to a friend who in no time told me it was a BAD COIL not producing enough power. So check out your COILS
Noise and vibration are the two biggies for the downside. Most serious races have their engines solid mounted to the frame. The motor mounts are just there to make it more comfortable for the driver. If you aren't worried about comfort, solid mount is the way to go. I'm sure you have to go around and tighten things once in a while as well. Vibration has a ...
The most common issue that makes a car shake when breaking is warped rotors. With warped rotors when you break the pad and caliper slide side to side causing the vibration. Depending on how badly they are warped the vibration may only be felt at high speed but the worse they are the lower the speed the vibration will be felt at.
The best solution is to ...
Pretty urgent. Less urgent than say, having no friction material left on your brakes but way more urgent than any regular servicing.
Driving around with a dying bearing will hurt both economy and safety but mostly safety. If the wheel is not a driven one (e.g. if it's the front wheel and your car is rear wheel drive) it's possible for the hub (and wheel) to ...
A while ago I faced a similar issue. My problem was the tie rods. Quick interjection, you should replace them in pairs. Just like headlights, if one fails, the other is close behind it.
Let's go down a list of possibilities:
Tie Rod Inners (You said you replaced the end, which signifies outer to me)
Control Arm Ball Joints (front and rear)
Wheel Bearings (...
If "injector cleaning" products helped but only lasted for one tank, I would try spraying Seafoam directly in at the throttle plate rather than putting an additive in your fuel. This should be a lot more effective at cleaning the injectors.
If that doesn't help, my best guess would be that the vibration is from unequal power from one or more of the ...
It's a standard side effect of the combination of:
Not quite enough gas/rpm on the engine and
Lifting the clutch to biting point a little bit too quickly and
A little bit of play in the rest of the drivetrain components
Essentially it's a bit like bouncing a ball, and then the tiny bit of continuous effort required to keep the ball bouncing.. Or it's a ...
I'm not a TC guru, so I'll refer you to this question for the different failure modes. What I can provide is the engineering theory behind vibration.
Any rotating mass will suffer from vibration if there is a rotary mass imbalance about the axis of rotation. If you have a table fan, try to tape a coin to one of the blades and you should be able to visibly ...
My father had the exact same problem that you describe on his 2007 Honda CR-V and it turned out to be a drive shaft. Apparently they fail quite regularly on this model. Replacing the shaft resolved the issue.
To answer your question: Are there other explanations to a vibration in the steering wheel that changes proportionally with speed (and only occurs when braking)?
Modern Rotors warping after installation is a myth. Cheap rotors come eccentric, or with uneven thickness, and/or they get installed crooked. Then pad material builds up on the high spots, create ...
Are these low profile tires? if so balding around the inside and outside edges on these can be quite common especially if they are not kept at their max PSI.
The PSI is my first guess. Typically if it's an alignment issue then both front or rear tires will have the same issues. Did the alignment printout show any unusual camber angles? and are both the ...
First two options are not true.
By increasing the engine speed, you change (shorten) its vibration period.
Car body is a receiver of vibration, produced by the engine, but has its fixed period. The more similar periods are, the more vibrations is transmitted from the engine on the entire car. Car period is rather lower, comparing to the engine at higher rpm,...
The usual culprits are one or more of the following (from most- to least likely):
flat spots on tires caused by wheelspin or locking brakes
(very) cheap tyres
worn shock absorbers
warped brake rotors
worn wheel bearings
worn suspension bushings
loose control arms.
There are a few possible things which could cause vibrations:
When breaking hard, your discs could take up some heat and get
warped, great article could be found
Bad geometry could cause vibrations + uneven tyre wear (flat spots
maybe?), see related
Check wheel balancing, article
I would recommend to check these first, there are ...
The noise you are describing is likely the wear indicators on the brakes. They are small metal tabs that come in contact with the rotor when the pads nearly gone. It's designed to let you know that your brakes need to be changed. You mention that you just replaced your brakes, did you do all four wheels? It might be the lack of shims, or disc brake quite on ...
I would have commented but this is a little long.
I suspect your vibration's behavior at higher speeds is more along the line of frequency rather than vanishing. I've had numerous of these situations and really it gets down to pinpointing the vibration with some good friend(s) that will go along for the not-so-fun troubleshooting ride.
I would not assume ...
Sounds like the Idle Air Control Valve and the Intake Manifold must be removed and cleaned.
The vibration is worse when in gear than in neutral
In gear there is a much greater load on the engine. Power is being transfered to the transmission and then to the wheels. This is going to cause the idle to drop a bit and this is where you'd feel the most ...