14

Hitting a bump at speed can cause several problems: Tire or wheel damage: generally this requires a replacement tire or wheel Suspension damage: a suspension member could have been bent or damaged by the impact Alignment problems: this isn't damage, just needs a re-alignment Lost wheel balancing weights: this is easily fixed by getting the wheels re-...


13

One of two things I think could be happening here. One of your wheels might have thrown a weight and become unbalanced. Second thing to check is to see if you have any ice buildup on the inside of the rim which would also have caused an imbalance. (Not knowing if you are in a winter climate where you are would figure into the second part of this answer.) ...


7

Tires, or a front wheel has thrown a balancing weight would be my first assumption. Examine both front tires for uneven wear, "cupping" (scalloped depressions where tread gets shallow in evenly spaced pockets around the circumference). If the tires appear fine everywhere, it may simply be that a balancing weight has come off. After that, there might be a ...


6

Tires are out of balance, or possible a bent rim. Take it back to where the tires were put on and tell them you have a vibration. If you have a vibration when you are using the brakes that goes away when you take your foot off the brake you may have warped rotors. I would take car of the tire balance issue first before addressing the rotors. You may only ...


6

Well, the new rotors and pads were the answer. I'm surprised that the EBC OEM replacements gave me so much trouble, but the new EBC Red Stuff (ceramic) pads and slotted rotors have been wonderful. Even with my typical hard braking, no noise, and better performance, too. (Apologies for the delayed answer. I became sidetracked and completely forgot about this ...


6

It sounds like the flywheel is out of round, and no a flywheel doesn't typically come with the clutch. He told me it's a single unit, so he didn't need to assemble the individual parts together. I am not sure exactly what that means, what parts exactly did he replace? A standard clutch job includes replacing the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing ...


6

The fact that you can feel the vibration in the steering wheel indicates the source is in the drivetrain, most probably something on the front axle. A very common thing that could cause this is an out-of-balance wheel. The first thing I would do is have the wheels balanced.


6

More than likely, the clutch just isn't broken in yet (or bedded, for that matter). You need to not ride the clutch at all, don't over heat it, and don't try not to prolong it's usage during this period. It's common for a clutch to have some small amount of jidder while in this phase, so don't be surprised. Once it becomes evenly worn and broken in, you'll ...


5

I've had this problem with my Honda accord 96 for an entire year and just figured out what was causing the vibration in idle mode. Changed mounts, cleaned air idle control valve and throttle body . Took it to a friend who in no time told me it was a BAD COIL not producing enough power. So check out your COILS


5

Noise and vibration are the two biggies for the downside. Most serious races have their engines solid mounted to the frame. The motor mounts are just there to make it more comfortable for the driver. If you aren't worried about comfort, solid mount is the way to go. I'm sure you have to go around and tighten things once in a while as well. Vibration has a ...


5

The most common issue that makes a car shake when breaking is warped rotors. With warped rotors when you break the pad and caliper slide side to side causing the vibration. Depending on how badly they are warped the vibration may only be felt at high speed but the worse they are the lower the speed the vibration will be felt at. The best solution is to ...


5

Pretty urgent. Less urgent than say, having no friction material left on your brakes but way more urgent than any regular servicing. Driving around with a dying bearing will hurt both economy and safety but mostly safety. If the wheel is not a driven one (e.g. if it's the front wheel and your car is rear wheel drive) it's possible for the hub (and wheel) to ...


5

There is a TSB on this issue and a shield to preven rocks from interfering with mount.


5

A while ago I faced a similar issue. My problem was the tie rods. Quick interjection, you should replace them in pairs. Just like headlights, if one fails, the other is close behind it. Let's go down a list of possibilities: Tie Rod Inners (You said you replaced the end, which signifies outer to me) Control Arm Ball Joints (front and rear) Wheel Bearings (...


4

It's a standard side effect of the combination of: Not quite enough gas/rpm on the engine and Lifting the clutch to biting point a little bit too quickly and A little bit of play in the rest of the drivetrain components Essentially it's a bit like bouncing a ball, and then the tiny bit of continuous effort required to keep the ball bouncing.. Or it's a ...


4

I'm not a TC guru, so I'll refer you to this question for the different failure modes. What I can provide is the engineering theory behind vibration. Any rotating mass will suffer from vibration if there is a rotary mass imbalance about the axis of rotation. If you have a table fan, try to tape a coin to one of the blades and you should be able to visibly ...


4

My father had the exact same problem that you describe on his 2007 Honda CR-V and it turned out to be a drive shaft. Apparently they fail quite regularly on this model. Replacing the shaft resolved the issue.


4

To answer your question: Are there other explanations to a vibration in the steering wheel that changes proportionally with speed (and only occurs when braking)? Modern Rotors warping after installation is a myth. Cheap rotors come eccentric, or with uneven thickness, and/or they get installed crooked. Then pad material builds up on the high spots, create ...


4

Are these low profile tires? if so balding around the inside and outside edges on these can be quite common especially if they are not kept at their max PSI. The PSI is my first guess. Typically if it's an alignment issue then both front or rear tires will have the same issues. Did the alignment printout show any unusual camber angles? and are both the ...


4

First two options are not true. By increasing the engine speed, you change (shorten) its vibration period. Car body is a receiver of vibration, produced by the engine, but has its fixed period. The more similar periods are, the more vibrations is transmitted from the engine on the entire car. Car period is rather lower, comparing to the engine at higher rpm,...


4

I think the obvious source of the "shimmy" is the rim itself. If the rim is not completely true (which the one you showed is not), it will most likely be felt at the steering wheel. This probably won't affect your performance, but it will affect the feel. There's an easy way to tell if there's too much play in a tie rod end ... that being, is there ...


3

It's definitely related to using Fix-A-Flat. The Fix-A-Flat has added enough weight to the inside of the tire to throw off balance. Unfortunately, the fluid it puts inside the tire will likely continue to keep that tire unbalanced, even if it is rebalanced at a shop. They may even find they are unable to balance it because when it's on the machine, since ...


3

The usual culprits are one or more of the following (from most- to least likely): flat spots on tires caused by wheelspin or locking brakes unbalanced rims bent rims (very) cheap tyres worn shock absorbers warped brake rotors worn wheel bearings loose wheelnuts worn suspension bushings loose control arms.


3

There are a few possible things which could cause vibrations: When breaking hard, your discs could take up some heat and get warped, great article could be found here. Bad geometry could cause vibrations + uneven tyre wear (flat spots maybe?), see related article. Check wheel balancing, article here. I would recommend to check these first, there are ...


3

Although, your point about cold engine mounts applies, I would doubt they heat up enough to significantly affect vibration transfer to the interior. Instead, what you might look at is increasing your idle speed a bit if that's easily doable. Every engine has a range of natural resonance, the range where the engine simply vibrates more than in other ranges. ...


3

You're not going to be able to weld the block to the frame, due to the block (likely) being cast. You can bolt it with solid motor mounts, which are commercially available for more common performance engines.


3

Since the issue happens only when the clutch is engaged the problem is not with the engine, flywheel, or pressure plate. Since it isn't speed dependent, but RPM dependent, we can eliminate the drive train behind the transmission. Since your transmission didn't have an issue prior to the clutch install, I believe we can eliminate that as well. The only thing ...


3

Since this is a rear wheel drive vehicle, you should check the drive line and U-joints. It could be if one of the U-joints is worn out, it gets off center slightly and causes the drive line to vibrate at the given speed. Since it does happen at a given speed, the other logical thing to check would be to have the tires rebalanced for a higher speed. Most any ...


3

With the moderate amount of lift you've described (1" to 1.5"), you shouldn't need a to drop your transfer case. Dropping the transfer case is done to straighten the angles on the front and rear drive shafts. In your case, consider the length of the drive shafts and the amount of lift. I don't know the dimensions of the XJ, but consider the length of the ...


3

This is perfectly normal and there is nothing wrong with the car. Think about what's happening. You're transitioning the car from an idling engine that's turning with no load on it, to one that's supposed to be turning the wheels. Specifically, it's supposed to be turning the wheels at a rate proportional to the minimum speed of the engine (via whatever ...


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