13

In the same way that you don't technically "need" to replace tyres or shock absorbers in pairs, I would suggest it best practice to replace the other mounts. If one has worn to the point of failure, it will be presumably the same age as the others. Plus the rather dramatic failure plus the extra stress placed on the other mounts leading up to the failure, ...


8

I believe what you have pictured there is a "dogbone" or side engine mount. These mounts are intended to counteract the the rotational forces on the engine that result from the torque between the engine and the transmission. These mounts are not typically under and load when the engine is not running - it is the front and rear mounts that "hold the engine up"...


6

The torque mount is fairly important. It keeps everything in place when the engine is trying to torque over from either a launch or a stop. While this one isn't completely shot, it needs to be replaced before that happens, so as to not cause issues in other areas of the vehicle. It will eventually affect the other motor mounts (because they have to do the ...


5

Whoever said that these mounts commonly fail is entirely correct. These mounts are oil filled. The brown stuff on top is likely not hydraulic fluid. When the mounts fail they split along the bottom side and the fluid is lost from the bottom. This prevents the fluid from ending up on top. The absolutely best way to tell if the mount has failed is to unbolt ...


5

Noise and vibration are the two biggies for the downside. Most serious races have their engines solid mounted to the frame. The motor mounts are just there to make it more comfortable for the driver. If you aren't worried about comfort, solid mount is the way to go. I'm sure you have to go around and tighten things once in a while as well. Vibration has a ...


5

I've had this problem with my Honda accord 96 for an entire year and just figured out what was causing the vibration in idle mode. Changed mounts, cleaned air idle control valve and throttle body . Took it to a friend who in no time told me it was a BAD COIL not producing enough power. So check out your COILS


4

Depending on the design of your car, the engine mounts may have been removed during the alternator removal and replacement so any damage may now show up. Alternatively, if the alternator previously wasn't working and is now drawing on the vehicles RPM to charge the batter, the idle may have dropped (which could account for the vibration). If the vibration ...


4

While both Paulster2's and Steve Matthews's have good answers, there is another thing to consider. The 3.5 V-6 equipped Camrys that year (not sure about the 4 cly) have what Toyota calls Active Control Engine Mounts. They use vacuum and electricity to control the mounts. Also on the 3.5 engine it's quite an extensive repair to get to the alternator off, and ...


4

You don't NEED to, but be aware that the other mounts tend to wear more quickly after 1 has been replaced. If you don't replace the others, keep an eye on them.


3

The forward and rear legs of the "floating" portion of the mount are actually resting on the metal below. Is this a giveaway - or normal? I don't know about your specific car but what I recall is that engine mounts often use a synthetic-rubber coupling to keep the metal parts separate. It is the rubber that prevents some engine vibration being transmitted ...


3

You're not going to be able to weld the block to the frame, due to the block (likely) being cast. You can bolt it with solid motor mounts, which are commercially available for more common performance engines.


3

This would not be a motor mount issue. What you are describing seems to be an issue with the transmission. IIRC, the C230 is a rear wheel drive vehicle. Only a front wheel drive vehicle would produce anything like what you are talking about with bad motor mounts, but then it will be far less noticeable. A motor mount problem will not create the jolt like ...


3

Until you have ALL the bolts for engine and transmission threaded don't tighten ANY of them.


3

It's possible but unlikely that the engine mounts are the problem, at least they wouldn't be the only problem that needs to be addressed. An engine mount is a flexible cushion that connects the engine to the car frame, they degrade over time and it's possible that an impact could break one loose, especially if its closer to the end of its service life. That ...


2

Sounds like you need to look at the rear bushing of the front wheel control arms. These are made of rubber on most cars and don't last beyond 100k. The thunk you feel is because a normal bushing has firm hold of the connection with the control arm, where as your control arm is probably loosely held in place by worn rubber. When you accelerate, the forces ...


2

Are your mounts located directly near your exhaust manifold? Do they have a heat shield? The rubber can dry and crack due to the heat from the exhaust manifold if not properly insulated/protected from the heat. On my 944, there is a small tin heat shield that protects the mounts from the manifold. Leaking oil onto the mounts will also accelerate their wear, ...


2

While one bolt might be able to hold the pump in place, it won't keep it firm. What this will give you is just enough movement, the serpentine belt will not stay in place. It will pop off, maybe not in the first few seconds, but as soon as you put enough strain on the power steering, it will deflect enough and your belt will be off. The reason there are ...


2

I think the problem was probably there before and you are just noticing it. Lots of times, the problems we experience with vehicles happens over time. Motor mounts are one such thing. They do not wear out overnight or just give up the ghost all of a sudden (in the vast majority of the cases). Most of the time, as these things wear out, we don't notice it ...


2

I've experience this in my 06 TC, I don't have a DMF but know the exact feeling you're talking about. The first Time I experienced it was while learning stick on a friends car, and it jerked the car quite a bit between shifts. I also occasionally feel the jerking in my car when shifting too quick, especially when accelerating hard and dropping the clutch. It ...


2

A few factors contribute to rubber inserts within motor mounts to fail. 1. Dry Rot The rubber decays over time and loses it's elasticity. The degraded rubber fails slowly over time. 2. Chemicals Some chemicals can accelerate the decay of rubber. Certain acids such as hydrofluoric and hydrochloric will degrade Buna-N rubber. EPDM rubber can degrade from ...


2

The main thing which damages motor mounts is the torque provided by the engine (the twisting motion the motor mounts are preventing). When you are driving down the highway on a long cruise, you are actually putting less torque the motor mounts than you would if you were in stop & go traffic. Any motion causes wear on your motor mounts, but highway ...


2

It would be very expensive to replace if the frame or the engine get damaged. FYI, many motorcycles, if not all, have the engine directly bolted to the frame. The main downside I can see is the vibrations.


2

I very much doubt it. I don't specifically know about Chrysler, but some manufacturers definitely don't cover the engine mountings due to it being one of the members under the considerable stress. Under hard use it is more likely to be damaged, and because hard use can't really be measured to void or validate the warranty, parts like this are sometimes ...


2

Replace it before attempting any expensive repairs. The other items named are pretty uncommon for failure IMO, sounds like they were grasping at straws- especially given that they didn't notice your busted motor mount while looking at it.


2

I would perform the same test to check for bad engine mounts, in the first place. Place your foot on the brake, engine in gear, and give it a bit of gas. Through the gap under the [raised] hood, watch the engine to see if it jumps up > 1 inch. If it is jumping, have someone watch the engine closer (or swap positions with you) to see if you can identify the ...


2

The engine has no power at idle, it would be same as if you switch in gear and slowly release a clutch. Automatic idle control will try to keep it running, and it will vibrate. Some tiny 1L cars with AC needs to turn the AC off to get up the hill. It's a big load. If your idle revs are going lower with AC ON, then you can consider about checking the idle ...


2

I did the clutch on one of these Clios and didn't need to support the engine from above at all during the repair. If I remember rightly, I supported the engine from underneath with a jack and this was more that sufficient to do the repair.


2

It appears this is a split piece which holds the wire (?) in place. You need to open it up so you can move the wire. To do this, take a look at what I've done with your image: The red arrows are tabs. Using a screwdriver, lift the top portion away from the bottom portion and it should pop up. The green arrow needs to be pulled down from the top so you can ...


1

Sounds like one of the following Low Power Steering fluid, add fluid Faulty Power Steering Pump, replace pump Loose or worn Power Steering belt, adjust or replace belt Steering Rack issue, replace rack assembly


1

I see this post is old but I am working on a very unique project right now. I am putting a 1976 Buick GS 350 mod motor in a 1990 Chevy C1500 pickup. The resolution to motor mounts? 1/2 inch steel plates with direct bolt in. Yes, it will work. It's the fastest way to bypass looking for mounts made for such a swap. Trust me I know, after searching for ...


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