The short answer is probably not, but you are creating undue hardship on the internals that will likely lead them to fail earlier than they would otherwise.
When you drive your car, you are putting wear and tear on basically everything. Driving your car harder (accelerating quickly, stopping abruptly) just adds to the wear you are putting on it. Even just ...
Belt vs Chain in Motorcycles
It's difficult to say which one is better. Depending on the application, one can be better or not in the particular role. High horsepower applications are not the place of belts and low maintenance is not the place for chains. Applications vary and one is not necessarily better than the other overall. The role of the final ...
Newtons Third Law
For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. The statement means that in every interaction, there is a pair of forces acting on the two interacting objects. The size of the forces on the first object equals the size of the force on the second object.
The lateral center of gravity (CG) is above the axle as well.
So you have ...
The vehicle in question is a front-wheel drive. FWDs are sensitive to front wheel alignment, since the front suspension and wheel linkages work under different conditions when accelerating and not accelerating:
on acceleration, the wheels push backwards on the road, thus tend to move the front suspension forwards relative to the vehicle.
on de-acceleration, ...
How can I shorten a drive shaft?
The easiest way to shorten a drive shaft is by taking it to the shop and having them do the work for you, to include balancing. I take it this is not what you're asking for though, so here goes:
Are there any warnings before proceeding?
There are three big issues with shortening the drive shaft (DS):
Here are some reasons why some manufacturers use belts.
Smoothness of the drive: The belt has the quality of putting down the torque of the engine much more smoothly and gradually than the chain counterpart, in a belt driven motorcycle you wont feel the sudden TUG when you twist the throttle.(This is the reason usually cruisers have this design and not the ...
So two things to consider, acceleration from stopped, and top end speed. And based on your question, the following are identical:
And the only difference is one is a transverse mounted front wheel drive, and the other is a rear wheel drive.
Acceleration from a stop
In this case I think if the two cars ...
I don't think it's safe/wise to drive 80 miles on that. It needs to be put on a trailer and dragged home at son's expense (some insurances cover towing also, but 80 miles is a bit far. If you have a truck, maybe rent a trailer for the day)
My options would be to replace the shaft were it sits now. No fun as a "flat back" job but it is not very hard. Or tow it to a repair site. It does not look like it should be driven. A driveshaft that gets loose can cause lots of damage.
Removing the shaft and driving without one in place is not an option as this would likely damage the dual pump drive ...
In theory, the harder you accelerate or decelerate(brake), the more you put stress on the different parts.
Most stressed parts when accelerating, in this order:
Most stressed parts when braking:
Forks and the rubber buffers
There is a company on the web called Phoenix Casting & Machine. They make adapter plates to mate automotive transmissions to non-automotive engines (they also make the spacers for the flywheel to compensate). The SD33T was originally designed as a fork lift engine. If I read the specs right, it has an SAE #3 transmission mount bolt pattern. This is why ...
No. The rear wheels are ALWAYS driven in all Toyota Tacoma models. There is no mechanism to disconnect the rear wheels, while there is a transfer case to engage/disengage the front wheels. Most AWD cars that only drive the front wheels until more traction is needed use a transaxle. Toyota also does not sell a FWD only Tacoma, but they do sell RWD only ...
The answer to the first bullet. The roll of the CV or constant velocity joint is to enable movement with independent suspension. As the geometry changes (when you hit a bump), the wheel moves up. If the axle were solid, this would be unable to happen. The CV joint allows for the movement of the suspension. I guess you could think of it like a swivel socket.
My WRX is a somewhat different setup but, Subaru being what they are, most of the equipment is very similar.
But yesterday, it started making really awful clunking and grinding noises whenever I'm in gear, especially while accelerating.
I suspect that this is where your "glitter" is coming from.
I do hear clunking and squeaking while turning tight ...
A two piece shaft is used to prevent the shaft from bending at high RPM. This is know as the whipping effect. As the shaft will not bend, therefore the transmission tunnel or floor above the shaft can be lower allowing more room for passengers or goods.
A plate between the flywheel housing on the engine and the bell housing of the gearbox would almost certainly be required to mount the gearbox. This would be no problem to produce with a CNC machine.
The problems that then arise would be to reconcile the differances in the two gearboxes.
Will the gearbox obstruct the clutch assembly in any way? Will the ...
Your automatic transmission is your weakest link
The wear will primarily be in your automatic transmission.
When starting from a stop your first gear is now considerably taller. When you first start to roll it takes the rear wheels longer to get the inner hub to the RPM's that full 1st gear engagement occurs because of the larger diameter of the rear ...
Jerking and thumping when shifting through gears is an indication that you have bad either:
bad engine mounts
bad transmission mounts
bad differential mounts
a combination or all of the above
Shifting into neutral does relieve the "tension", as you put it, but you need to care care of these issues. They can end up being costly.
Throw out bearings (TOB) usually make noise when only when you press the clutch pedal. The reason for this is, it is the only time it is engaged and actually can make a noise. If you are hearing this particular noise at 2000-3000 rpm when you aren't actuating the clutch, this can be ruled out almost immediately.
Input shaft bearing will make noise most of ...
The diagnosis that you're done pretty much narrows it down to something between the output of the transmission and the wheels, including the brakes. You can eliminate the brakes, by lightly applying the brake while listening for the noise to go away (it is the brake) or not (something else) – while driving.
If you're sensitive to the noises of your car it ...
That's an unfortunate scenario. While it's not the end of the world to use 4wd on pavement in your case, you would want to keep the speed low, and avoid tight turns--turn off 4wd if you are going to be going fast or turning tight.
But yeah, you are going to be wearing our parts of your drive train (I think transfer case in particular) using it like this. ...
It could be a few things really, however its not unheard of to get a faulty or imbalanced clutch as manufacturing faults do occur.
The release bearing is always a likely culprit as these do suffer from rough/worn bearings which would give a vibration, but you'd normally get a rough feel through the pedal too.
It's also possible that there is an issue with ...
You are exactly right. As long as the tires with the different tread depth is on the non-drive axle, no damage will occur to the differential of the vehicle.
You probably realize if you tried to run the mismatch on an AWD system, it would cause issues. Also, when on the driven axle, this will cause heating in the differential as it will always be adjusting....
This could work in a car with an open differential and an active traction control system.
When the system detects a wheel spin, it actively brakes (and locks out) the particular wheel, as a consequence the torque is directed by the differential to the wheel with traction (least resistance, as you noted). I do not know the details of the implementation in ...
One piece designs necessitate a lighter material, such as aluminum, which requires a larger diameter shaft to achieve the same strength as the stock steel shafts. There are several issues with this approach:
A larger clearance is required to accommodate the shaft and its harmonics,
The shaft is more prone damage (due to angle and material),
This shaft is ...
the "insulation" on the underside of a hood is not for noise, its a fire blanket. Its supposed to fall down on top of the engine fire as the plastic tabs holding it in place melt. Hood paint peeling is not from engine heat, its from sun damage and neglect of car. The engine cover is entirely there for looks, no other reason. cars ran great without them for ...