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38

You stated you had dirt in your wheels from the incident. Two things could be happening to you: You still have dirt in one or more of your wheels causing an imbalance. A simple scrub will take care of the issue. You threw one or more of your wheel weights. These are the things which keep the wheel/tire from vibrating. You'd need to take it to a tire shop to ...


19

Even though you state that no curb was hit, it could be that you still hit something small while sliding and that could have affected the alignment of the wheels. Or if there really was no obstacle hit, simply switching from the road to dirt at an angle could have been a shock to the wheels. Happened to me once to hydroplane at ~30km/h and hit a side curve ...


8

Sliding sideways into the dirt on the shoulder could cause a bent rim. I would have suspected you would be more likely to feel that at about 45mph but if the bend is relatively light, this could be the cause. Taking the car in for re-balancing would likely find the problem quickly.


7

It could very well be that the tires are misformed due to ply separation, this is not very rare on old tires. It would make the wheel take a form that is not round, and you will get vibrations even if the wheels are perfectly in balance. since the steering wheel is vibrating, it probably is a front tire, so you could get by with changing two of your wheels. (...


6

The fact that you can feel the vibration in the steering wheel indicates the source is in the drivetrain, most probably something on the front axle. A very common thing that could cause this is an out-of-balance wheel. The first thing I would do is have the wheels balanced.


5

The most common issue that makes a car shake when breaking is warped rotors. With warped rotors when you break the pad and caliper slide side to side causing the vibration. Depending on how badly they are warped the vibration may only be felt at high speed but the worse they are the lower the speed the vibration will be felt at. The best solution is to ...


5

Most of the time on the Mazda3 the blame is defective engine mounts, they are too soft. Its the upper mount that's the prevalent one. There are aftermarket replacements available. Now there are a few other things that it could be. Massive air leaks, check the EGR valve. It would be a good idea to do a smoke test on the intake and engine. The test will ...


4

It's possible the belts inside one of the tires is broken. With brand new tires, likely a manufacturing defect. A broken belt will make the car feel as you describe, and can be mistaken for the tires being out of balance. I've had this happen before. In my case, the tire was old and I hit too many potholes. One of the unique symptoms I remember is the ...


4

The only thing which higher octane gas will solve is pinging (knocking or pre-ignition). As an aside, just because the gas is a higher octane does not mean it's higher quality. Higher octane gas does not burn as easy as lower octane gas. At most gas stations, the higher octane will not be any better. This does, however, differ given different brands of ...


4

It sounds like your struts are shot. If you're talking about a shake/vibration at high speeds it more than likely is wheel balance. But if your talking about rocking side to side it would be your struts. If it is your struts I would take it back to the dealer based on the age of the vehicle.


4

I finally find the reason why my car is shaking at idle when the car at uphill. It was a piston failure and repair cost is around 2000$ and also that failure damaged compressor( which is combined with supercharger ) that needs to be replaced with a brand new one and it cost around 450$. My total repair cost was like 3000$. So, I decided to sell my car. If ...


3

When you say that it shakes when you stop at a red light, based on the context, I'm assuming that you mean when the car is fully stopped and the engine is idling. (If I'm mistaken about that and you mean that it shakes as it comes to a stop, I'd suspect a warped brake rotor.) I'm going to guess that the engine is running poorly at idle after the engine is ...


3

You need to go back and look at the firing order of the spark plug wires you installed. If you get two out of place on a four cylinder engine, you now only have two good firing cylinders, and depending on which two got switched, one of them may even be firing the cylinder at opposition to the rest, not allowing the engine to get anywhere close to operating ...


3

More than likely it's the throttle position sensor (TPS). What happens is they can get a dead spot in them. If you look at them, they are just a rheostat which varies the voltage as it comes through ... different positions means different voltages because of the amount of resistance which the electricity has to flow through. You get a spot in there where no ...


3

Your 'double wheel turning the belts' is called the crankshaft pulley. Some vehicles have a pulley assembled in two 'halves' and are bonded together to form the crankshaft pulley. In the bonded arrangement it now becomes a 'crankshaft engine damper'. If the bonding becomes detached to any extent the damper will allow and even cause engine vibrations, and ...


3

The most likely cause is that broken mount - your chassis will be flexing, especially in a 30 year old van, so get that fixed first. There could be various other causes as well (bearings, suspension arms, stub axles etc) but you need to get to a solid platform first before trying to diagnose any further.


3

If it is occurring at only a certain speed range it is most likely a wheel out of balance but could also be belt separation. If you take your vehicle to the location you got the tires many will do balancing for free. If the belts have separated they will know in the spin balance and tell you you need a new tire.


3

The volume regulator at the high pressure pump would surely be a good candidate for the mentioned symptoms. Normally the volume regulator seems normal when accelerating (because he is mostly open, so there is a buffer on pressure incase of a sudden load increase), when releasing the gas pedal you also wont feel it since the thrust of the car keep the engine ...


2

It sounds like its shaking at higher RPMs. Check plugs, distributor, and exhaust for leaks. Also check your motor mounts. It may be your harmonic balancer. Check to see if its securely in place


2

My first thought would be the motor mounts. They isolate the vibration of engine from the frame.


2

I think this could definitely be cause by bad fuel. It would probably do good for you to put a bottle or two of gas treatment into your tank. Put it in and run the fuel down to near empty (not all the way, but run it down to about an 1/8th tank), then fill the tank full with gas from a known good source. You may ask how do you figure out which gas is good? ...


2

I would have checked the plugs and coil(s), but looks like you already found that answer.


2

If it is the 5E engine, they don't have a MAF. they use a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP). SOME of them actually came with a 7A engine which did use a Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). You can do a little research on it, but you'll find that Wikipedia won't tell you that. Shaking is most likely motor mounts. The rubber in Toyota mounts is known to go bad ...


2

IF you let the wheel go and it continues to track straight then it is most likely not in need of a alignment. My first thought would be to look at your tires. A missing weight or tires that are slightly out of round or below recommended pressure.


2

See if there is a hidden fuel filter. Its inside a black plastic housing inside the frame rail between the fuel tank and the in-line pressure fuel pump. It has 4 fuel line ports, Best to unscrew the plastic bowl using a band type (oil filter) wrench being careful not to break the plastic bowl. It's hard to unscrew. I had to slightly bend my break line out of ...


2

Steering wheel vibration is caused by many things like brakes, suspension, but i think in your case its certainly your tires. Now 2 things could be happening. A) tires were deformed by the dirt while your car was stopping or B) tires become unbalanced. Quoting Wikipedia on Tire Balance: When the wheel rotates, asymmetries of mass may cause it to hop ...


1

In addition to the suggested wheel balancing and wheel bearing (both of which I would check first), you should also check for wear on the tie rod ends. If they have play, a minor imbalance may be amplified, and the more it shakes the faster it wears, which again makes it shake more over time - a positive feedback loop. I had this problem on a very old ...


1

Tires get unbalanced as they wear without events like "balance weights falling off" happening. The most likely assumption is that the vibration was happening when you bought the car, but you didn't discover it on your road test. Check the tires for sidewall bulges, and uneven tread wear at around circumference of the wheel (possibly caused by skid), and ...


1

I also had a 2000 Ford 4.0L OHV V6 and experienced similar symptoms (rough idle, intermittent no start, but no hot smell). In my case, it turned out to be the Idle Air Control Valve, which is a small silver cylinder located on top of the plastic air intake manifold that is placed on top of the engine. Its main function is to let enough air into the engine ...


1

Check the rpms on it when on idle , it sounds like could be loosing power, could be spark plugs, or your ac compressor might be defective and applies a hold down on the engine and causes week air into brake booster n so when u apply brakes+ steer+ ac rpms drop


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