I would say this would be fine to drive slowly and carefully over short distances (I've had worse) - but things to be careful of:
speed bumps (seriously - watch out)
Also try and avoid braking or accelerating hard - gently come to a stop at lights etc as you want to avoid too much nose travel up and down.
Get it to the ...
I agree with @resident_heretic that these are the link arms for your stabilizer bars. The bar acts as a torsion spring that tends to keep the car level during cornering.
With the links broken on the passenger side I would expect you to notice a few things:
More body roll during cornering,
A possible loss of traction on the inside wheel in corners, and
Motorcycle Speed Wobble Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting speed wobbles can entail looking at quite a bit. Here are some bullet points on components you need to check on your bike for integrity and proper assembly.
Rear Wheel Alignment
Adjust your chain properly and ensure the real wheel is in alignment with your front. Common Issue, the wheels aren't ...
Driving at a right angle will make the front and then the rear move further up and down than travelling over one wheel at a time, but that movement will be in one plane.
Driving diagonally puts more stress on the chassis as it tries to twist first one corner then then next. The car will not move up and down so much, but will move sideways a lot more.
So of ...
I use two part spring compressors like you show here on a regular basis.* I think you'll be fine but there are some good things to watch out for.
Watch out for the threads. If the compressing clamps jump threads, the spring could suddenly express a lot of its potential energy. With McPherson struts, it's entirely possible to catch a finger between the ...
While various items such as maintenance and ease of tire removal are cited for the SSSA (Single Sided Swing Arm) design, initial testing and development of all these designs were started on the racetrack. Honda initially released their version of the SSSA with NSR250R.
image of an NSR250R
All of the early SSSA's were developed for racing to ...
Looks like a stabilizer bar link. They come in pairs one on the left and one on the right side. They attach to the stabilizer bar. Stabilizer bars are part of a car's suspension system. They are sometimes also called anti-sway bars or anti-roll bars. Their purpose in life is to try to keep the car's body from "rolling" in a sharp turn.
I'll make a couple of cogent points, but I doubt I'll be able to organize this coherently.
Go get and read Carrol Smith's Nuts Bolts Fasteners and Plumbing. This is religious tome-level knowledge that will transcend all time. Although mostly about racing and motorsports, the concepts still work and apply to all fastener connections.
Carrol will be quick ...
From my experience of CV boots, you need to replace them immediately if you want to keep the CV joint it covers. It doesn't take long for dirt to destroy the joint once it gets inside the boot. If you leave it until the joint starts to deteriorate, then you risk failure of the joint at probably at dangerous time when the car is turning around a corner.
There are several advantages to upside down forks
Reduced Unsprung Weight
Reduced Sprung Weight
Reduced Stanchion Friction Levels
Increased Stanchion to Slider Overlap
Image of the lower portion of a pair of inverted forks
The largest delta between the legacy standard fork and an inverted fork is in their strength. ...
For God's sake don't
I'm still to see a car that was lowered properly. From what I can remember now you will have these issues:
The car will jump at every small irregularity in the asphalt.
Wheels will scratch against the body when steered or when suspension works
In a collision, the car will damage more for being in a lower position.
More maintenance ...
Suspensions do two things:
they smooth out a bumpy ride, and as such are more of a comfort thing. In fact, production cars have their suspensions tuned at the factory for some kind of compromise between comfort and performance. F1 and NASCAR will have a tuning leaning heavily towards performance, of course. If you drive different cars, you will notice that, ...
Yes, when you do any major work to the front suspension, you need to have the alignment done. Even though the parts are "basically" the same, they are not exact. Newer parts will be tighter than old (less deflection and no wear), so will put the alignment into a different position. The only thing you are going to cause by not getting the ...
It is always recommended to replace suspecsion and braking components on both sides of the same axle at the same time, wherever possible.
Both will currently be the same age - if one has failed, it is likely that the other is in a similar condition and so could easily fail soon. In the case of springs, the constant flexing of the metal can eventually lead ...
The vehicle in question is a front-wheel drive. FWDs are sensitive to front wheel alignment, since the front suspension and wheel linkages work under different conditions when accelerating and not accelerating:
on acceleration, the wheels push backwards on the road, thus tend to move the front suspension forwards relative to the vehicle.
on de-acceleration, ...
Factory specs assume factory parts. Each modification you have made changes the angles at which the suspension operates so those angles no longer apply. This is especially true on truck lifts where a large amount of the suspension is replaced.
Here is a nice tire rack information write up (or read below):
Usually the bolts that strut braces attach to are the ones that attach the strut assembly to the car. The spring is held in place in the strut assembly by the nut in the middle, which I have never needed to remove to install any strut braces. See how the brace below has a hole in the middle for the top shock nut:
This shock nut holds the upper spring perch ...
What is a shock absorber?
I'm going to answer the basic title question with a carefully selected quote from the great Wikipedia:
... their intended sole purpose is to dampen spring
Think of how you want your car to ride when driving down a smooth road that has a bump or pothole. You expect to feel a mild jolt when the car travels over ...
Springs do wear out overtime or with severe duty use. You can determine if they are sagging by checking the ride height. Where this measurement is taken and what is normal varies with each vehicle type and brand. The spring is what determines ride height, as it is the component that is supporting the vehicles weight. One of the leading causes of spring ...
Shocks/struts can either come charged with nitrogen (gas shock) or conventional (without a charge). Both can wear out over time. Shocks should be replaced around 50k miles under normal conditions. That really depends on how you drive your vehicle, though. If all of your driving is done on the freeways of Texas where the straights are longer than long, then ...
tl;dr: stiffening one of the sway bars on a car will cause that end to be more likely break loose in response to transients.
At a high level, the sway bar acts as a spring just like any other. You can disassemble the sway bar problem by considering a piece at a time. For example, imagine that one end of the sway bar is attached to the wheel assembly at ...
I cannot tell you directly if the bolts you are using are Torque to Yield (TTY or T2Y) bolts, but if Bently says to replace them, you bet I'd do it. What are three bolts in comparison to the well being of your family and yourself, not to mention those around you should any of these bolts fail?
As for T2Y bolts, here is what Fel-Pro says about them:
Assuming they were the base models, the two cars you mentioned (Acura TL and Mazda6) are both Front-Wheel Drive (FWD), while the Mercedes is Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD). The FWD cars, having both their engine and transaxle mounted over the front wheels, have a front-biased weight distribution, requiring stiffer front springs to control the weight. The higher ...
There should be no oil visible on the shocks. If you see oil that means they're not damping as they should be because the seals are compromised. They most certainly shouldn't be dripping, regardless of what the warranty company wants you to believe.
I had a rear shock fail on my Lexus a few months ago and had it replaced under Toyota warranty. The ...
It can be very difficult to isolate if it is from the tires or the drive line.. but most of the time, it is the tires. Looking at the tires with the naked eye when there is no load on the tire is not very telling though. The best thing is to find a shop with a Hunter DSP 9000 or similar machine that measures so called road force. This will measure the tire ...
It's not that bad. I wouldn't go driving fast or anything, but you should be okay. There are guys who cut the springs on their Honda Civics (it's always Honda Civics for some reason) to make them lower and they seem to be doing okay.
What you are describing is called bump steer.
This is caused by a toe change when the suspension travels vertically.
Common Causes include
Incorrect tie rod height or lenght
steering rack that is not mounted parallel to the datum plane.
bent steering parts
structural damage to the vehicle
I'd start by checking the mounting of the steering rack since it ...
Your truck is designed to carry that load. If you consider carrying a full set of passengers. 1 in the front, 3 in the back, that weight would exceed your current load of 500 pounds. I would not be concerned at all regarding doing on what you plan on doing. In fact, make it 1,000 pounds and do it, your truck would handle that just fine although it may ...
In terms of rebuilding the shock, there are similarities between models but there are unique differences between them that make it impossible to review all of the nuance. I'll only give a high level response to the rebuilding component.
I can't figure out the low/high speed or the rebound/compression dampening.