31

While I cannot see the back rotors very well, I can tell you without a doubt, the front rotors are brand new. You can still see the crosshatching on the surface which means it was prepped. It doesn't show any wear at all. The rear brakes (from what I can see) are in good condition as well, though appear to be a bit older and more used. The misconception you ...


15

Drum brakes are cheaper to manufacture than disc brakes, because there are fewer moving parts and because in the rear the parking brake (which often works by a drum-and-shoe mechanism even on four-wheel-disc-equipped cars) can share a drum with the "regular" brakes. All other things being equal, discs work better than drums, especially in wet conditions. ...


15

I would recommend you get slotted, but not drilled rotors. Regular rotors will work fine for typical track use. What is more important is the type of brake pad you purchase to go with your disks. The reason I suggest not getting drilled rotors is, they have a tendency to crack at the holes due to stress risers. They will not last as long as you'd like them ...


14

The braking surfaces of a rotor require precision machining. The tolerances are in the .002" range. You would never come close without a quality lathe. Each manufacturer also has specifications for minimum total thickness, side to side variance for vented rotors, the smoothness of the finish and run-out which is the difference between the highest and lowest ...


13

It's not required that you replace your brake rotors at the same time you replace your brake pads, but there are many reasons why it's highly recommended. Primarily, it's not the rust you should worry about, there most likely always going to be some rust around the edges, that's not at all out of the ordinary. The main problem is that your rotors are most ...


12

Wow, I'm in the minority here. It is my firm belief that you should have your rotors turned with every brake pad/shoe replacement! If you do not do this everything will work perfectly fine, until you apply the brakes then if your brake rotors/drums were glazed, heavily scored or worn out of parallel to the new brake pad your will stopping distance WILL be ...


12

Improper wheel nut torque, use a torque wrench, or an impact wrench with torque sticks to put on the wheels. Rapid cooling such as running through water with the brakes hot is also suppose to cause it. Cheap pads, they breakdown under heat and leave deposits on the rotor surface. Ball joints should not cause the rotors to warp. Example of Torque sticks ...


12

In a word, accuracy! A lathe as used by a mechanic will have the precision required, and the instrumentation available, to ensure the rotors are turned evenly. You'd be surprised at how much vibration you can get at 70mph from the smallest inconsistencies in rotor height - and how much you lose in stopping power!


12

If your guide pins are stuck, the caliper won't be able to slide properly. With a sliding caliper, when you apply the brake, the piston pushes one pad against the disc (rotor), and simultaneously pushes back against the caliper (Newton's equal and opposite reactions), causing the caliper to slide along the guide pins, and pull the other pad against the ...


12

Contact area Blank rotors have a larger area in contact with the pads than slotted or drilled rotors. Therefore they provide better braking at the same temperature. Cooling To cool the rotor, manufacturers use a vented rotor, not a cross-drilled or slotted rotor. cross-drilling puts holes perpendicular to the flow of air - they have no cooling effect ...


11

I'm going to assume you have a very good reason for not taking the other car out of the garage to give yourself more room... People replace either the front or rear brakes together because they are "on the same axle" and replacing one side doesn't make sense because both sides should wear at the same rate. Replacing one side could make the car pull to one ...


11

This is acceptable practice. Low quality brake pad backing plate edges can be very rough and the dimensions are often off spec. Higher quality pads usually have a better formed edge that fits correctly. As long as there are not rust flakes causing "rust jacking" under the pad end shims and the end shims are in good shape it is OK to file off the high spots ...


10

I've done countless brake jobs at the shop I worked at; without hearing/seeing the car here are some things that can cause noise/pulsating: Non-burnished brakes - like others have stated after putting fresh pads and rotors on a car you need to 'break them in.' I worked in a shop for a while and we didn't always do everything by the book, but when putting ...


10

The only way to know if a rotor needs to be replaced is measuring it with a micrometer and comparing that to the manufacturers specifications, so, no, we can't tell you if it needed to be replaced. However, since this was your first brake job I seriously doubt they needed to be replaced. Common practices is to "turn" rotors when doing a brake job. The ...


9

If your rotors are thick enough and there are no defects in pads area (big grooves, buldgy edges) I would not worry at all. There's no need to replace rotors each time. If there are some defects that can be removed and the rotors are thick enough - consider resurfacing the rotors, that might be cheaper. All-in-all, given that the only downside is faster ...


9

The Myth (Or, how to blame customers for bad brake jobs, since the problems usually take a while to show up) What is passed off as a "warped rotor", and blamed on the user running through a puddle after heating the brakes, is a myth. The shimmy feeling that comes from brakes is usually due to uneven friction material build-up on the rotor. This transfer ...


9

No, A2 bolt is not safe. You can use the calculator here: http://www.tribology-abc.com/calculators/e3_6b.htm ...for bolts of grade 8.8 and M8 thread. It will say that the maximum tightening torque is 24.11 Nm which is less than 20 ft lbs (which would be 27.11 Nm). Now, the calculator does not have A2 as the grade of bolts, but according to this site: http://...


8

As already stated, get the estimate on paper with parts and labor broken down. Go to another shop and get an estimate, tell them reasons related to your car of why you want the estimate, not "i have this estimate, can you do better". If you've noticed vibration under heavy braking, noises or just reached the number of miles where you want them checked for ...


8

More than likely you didn't bed your brakes correctly. If you read this from Centric Parts, you find out exactly what I'm talking about. The specific part I'm talking about is the portion on an even transfer layer: Note the emphasis on the word even, as uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or ...


8

What is a freely spinning wheel? Of course, you should be able to spin the wheel by hand, but beneath the brake, bearing and transmission can apply lots of drag. My rear wheels do about 1.5 to 2 turns, my front wheels not more than half a turn when I put them in rotation by hand. While it's the same for the front wheel of my mother's car, its rear wheels ...


8

There's nothing wrong with your rotors as far as can be seen from your pictures, it's totally normal to have the edges rusty, it doesn't impair them. What's important is that the disk surfaces are in good condition, that is the part that's going to be in contact with the pad, and yours seems fine. There looks to be a good amount of metal left as well.


7

The main reason for reoccurring warping seems to be (form what I've read) "imprinting" your pads on the rotors: fully applying the brake on a very hot rotor for an extended period of time (a few seconds), thus leaving behind a deposit film that causes the warping problems. Maybe your pad is dragging on the forward rotor, causing it to heat up? With the way ...


7

The direct answer is that you have to replace your rotors when they look like this:


7

You cannot tell from just looking at them (in most cases) ... you have to measure the thickness of the rotor to see if they need replaced. Also, it's hard to tell from the picture how deep the wear is on the rotor. The grooves could be 1mm deep, or 5mm deep ... it's really hard to tell. It really comes down to how thick the rotors would be after machining. ...


7

Overheated rotors can show some tell-tale signs. Once the metal has been overheated, it can weaken or warp which are both bad things. Some signs: Bluing Cracks These "spider cracks", "heat cracks", or "heat checks" are only on the surface of the rotor, but are still bad.


7

Two lubes are needed to properly lubricate caliper type brakes. Silicone is used on the slider pins and anything that touches rubber. A generous amount that completely coats the pin, hole wall and rubber expansion boot is needed. Be sure to coat the boot lips that fit in the grooves that hold them in place, this act as a sealant. This lube will not swell ...


6

This is a great question, so let me help. First, I am the owner an auto repair center in New Hampshire and rusted brake rotors are almost an everyday occurrence here. If you live in an area that uses a lot of salt on the roads in the winter, like we do, then this information most likely pertains to you. 99% of the rotors that we have to replace are due to ...


6

It's pretty obvious from reading all these replies, that the mechanic shops want you to always replace your rotors, and pay them to do it. Rust on the edges is normal and will happen with new rotors in less than a year, depending on where you live. If the rotors have never been resurfaced, you don't have any deep grooves, and your brakes aren't shuddering ...


6

It very difficult to say if a rotor is warped by visual inspection. The tolerences involved are very small in the .004" range. That is about the thickness of 3 or 4 human hairs. My recent experience (if you are doing your own repairs) is to replace rather than resurface. The thickness of used and resurfaced rotors may exceed the minimum allowed thickness, ...


6

Well, the new rotors and pads were the answer. I'm surprised that the EBC OEM replacements gave me so much trouble, but the new EBC Red Stuff (ceramic) pads and slotted rotors have been wonderful. Even with my typical hard braking, no noise, and better performance, too. (Apologies for the delayed answer. I became sidetracked and completely forgot about this ...


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