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14

The only time you really need to turn your wheels when parked is when parking on a hill. Uphill you should point your wheels away from the curb. When pointing downhill you should point your wheels towards the curb. This is so if the parking mechanism should fail, the curb will hopefully stop the momentum of the vehicle and keep it from rolling very far. ...


14

Torque steer is where a front wheel drive car pulls to the left or right under hard acceleration. This is relatively common in older front wheel drive cars, but as it is negligible in low powered cars it was not an issue. The problem comes when you have a high powered engine and all of a sudden torque steer can be rather spectacular. It is caused by one ...


10

First of all, that is the job of the shop where you did the alignment, not just the wheels they should also check if the steering is aligned with the position of the wheel (they are entitled to do so). Solution: You can definitely take it to the station back and show them the problem; there is a good chance that the engineer might have forgotten to do the ...


10

The vehicle in question is a front-wheel drive. FWDs are sensitive to front wheel alignment, since the front suspension and wheel linkages work under different conditions when accelerating and not accelerating: on acceleration, the wheels push backwards on the road, thus tend to move the front suspension forwards relative to the vehicle. on de-acceleration, ...


9

tl;dr: Winter tires are different and you are sensitive enough to tell. It doesn't sound like you have a problem. It seems that you are detecting exactly what I detect when I put my winter tires on after the summer. Quoting from the Tire Rack article: New winter tires begin with deeper tread depths and more open tread designs than the tires used ...


8

I would not back the nut off to align the nut with the cotter pinhole. Doing so can result in the taper between the knuckle and the tierod becoming loose. The cotter pin would keep the nut from backing off but it would not prevent the tapered shaft of the tierod from spinning in the tapered hole of the knuckle. As @MikeSaull has suggested lube the threads. ...


8

What you are describing is called bump steer. This is caused by a toe change when the suspension travels vertically. Common Causes include Incorrect tie rod height or lenght steering rack that is not mounted parallel to the datum plane. bent steering parts structural damage to the vehicle I'd start by checking the mounting of the steering rack since it ...


8

Note: this answer only addresses drive-by-wire; I don't know if you could tell whether the other systems employ by-wire technologies as readily. Drive-By-Wire : Look at your throttle body If it has a throttle plate actuated by cable, you have drive-by-cable, not drive-by-wire Drive-by-cable examples: Drive-by-wire examples: Notice the absence of a ...


8

Some bikes "fall into turns" more than others. While some of this behavior might be expected, you seem to be experiencing this in a significant fashion. If the issue occurs equally in both left and right turns, then it is likely caused by an underinflated front tire. If the issue occurs on one side only, or more severely on one side than the other, then it ...


7

Check the power steering belt. If the belt is slipping, it would probably squeal horribly, but it might not if it's really loose. It could also have broken, in which case there would be no sound. If the belt isn't turning the power steering pump, then you won't have any power steering.


7

The boot kit alone isn't going to be enough to overhaul the joint - you might need parts of the actual CV joint if the boots have been open to the elements long enough for dirt to get in there and turn the grease into grinding paste. If you're at that stage, buy an overhauled axle shaft.


7

tl;dr: Steering feedback means different things to different people. Ultimately, however, it's about using the steering wheel as both an input and an output device. At a very high level, the concept of steering feedback has to do with the user interface of the car. If we restrict the discussion to just the wheel in front of you, it's easy to imagine that ...


7

Drive by wire systems have no mechanical connection between the input decive (like a throttle/gas pedal) and the output device (like the engine). They use only electrical signals. To my knowledge there aren't any cars that use this system for steering. Your steering wheel is mechanically connected to the front wheels but is assisted by an electric motor. ...


7

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/best-penetrating-oil-for-stuck-nuts-bolts.773380/ There was a study done on penetrating oils. Here's the highlights - The break out torque required for: Nothing = 516 ft. lbs. WD-40 = 238 ft. lbs. PB Blaster = 214 ft. lbs. Liquid Wrench = 127 ft. lbs. Kano Kroil = 106 ft. lbs. 50/50 blend of ...


6

Tires are out of balance, or possible a bent rim. Take it back to where the tires were put on and tell them you have a vibration. If you have a vibration when you are using the brakes that goes away when you take your foot off the brake you may have warped rotors. I would take car of the tire balance issue first before addressing the rotors. You may only ...


6

Found it was because a bolt holding the steering rack in place had sheared. Very dangerous and glad I decided to visit a mechanic!


6

You seem to be describing the weight of the steering, which varies from vehicle to vehicle. It isn't something to be concerned about. Many factors influence the lightness (or heaviness) of steering feel, including: steering/chassis geometry amount of hydraulic (power-steering) assist tire size I would be concerned if you cannot or struggle to turn the ...


6

I would venture to guess that it is a completely random, and in no way threatening plastic trim piece/wiring harness/adjustment lever under the steering column that is rubbing or vibrating against it's fasteners or another trim piece. It is completely intermittent because sometimes it catches itself in such a way that it doesn't vibrate, or it could be ...


6

When you say OBD i'm assuming you mean generic data. The answer is outright NO. OBD generic data has no parameters that the alignment can be gleamed from. If the car has a steering wheel angle sensor then maybe you could tell if something is wrong. This data would be available in manufacturer specific. If the angle has been off for a long time at high ...


6

The force required for the driver to turn the steering wheel would be a torque measured in foot-pounds (or Newton-meters). Extra Credit: The actual force required for the rack in a rack and pinion style steering system to push/pull the tie-rods to turn the wheels would be a simple load measured in pounds or kilograms. The actual load the tires experience ...


6

WD40 is not a penetrant, and as far as lubricants go, it's a poor one. Get a legit penetrating oil at the car parts store. They come in spray cans and range from $7 to $15.


6

The alignment of your front end is affected by much more than just the tie rod ends. The camber especially would be affected by changing the struts. Camber is the amount of lean in or out the top of the tire has. The following image describes it pretty well: And as you can see from the image, the process of changing the struts, could change the camber if ...


6

There are a few front suspension issues that would be suspect, but my best guess would be the control arm bushings. When they go bad and break, the entire control arm that holds the wheel in place can shift. This is often accompanied by a lot of clunking noises going over bumps etc. Of course if you ran into a curb or similar, something could be bent or ...


5

I just stumbled across this entry in my factory manual, which says that overtightening is the correct procedure. The safe margin is given by rotation rather than torque, however -- up to 60˚ past the point where the specified torque is reached.


5

Is the noise coming from the steering itself, or from the tyres? i.e does it make the noise as you are turning the steering wheel, or does it still do it as you hold the wheel steady during the turn? If it is the latter (the "hollywood tyre squeal" effect), that is quite common, particularly on the smooth concrete you tend to find in multi-story car parks. ...


5

It sounds to me like the previous owner suspected an outer CV joint (which was my first thought when you described the problem) and changing it didn't fix the issue. I would double check that the outer CV joints look new and there is a good chance the problem could relate to one of the inner CV joints. Diagnosing the problem will likely be a case of ...


5

I pulled the tires off and inspected the front end suspension and steering, and found that the sway bar linkage on the drivers side was detached.


5

That's a steering rack boot that you're replacing - it's a pretty simple job (I do them on the family cars). DON'T buy the single use clip. It's exactly what you don't need, because it requires a special tool to tighten it up. Only about $25 online, but add that to the two clips, and it's getting up in cost for no real reason. These boots don't rotate. ...


5

Checking the geometry of a bike normally requires a special jig for the frame. However you can approximate it all using a string and weight as well as strings to check wheel alignment. Most likely when you dropped it the top and bottom yokes (triple trees for the American audience) may have twisted slightly, slackening the clamps on the forks a little may ...


4

maybe you should try to lubricate the rack and pinion and the base on which the steering system is mounted


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