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20

Fish plating a frame is typically used when someone is building a custom frame and two pieces of steel are met and a plate is created to overlap both pieces to add structure support:


16

Sandblasting your frame is fine. Sandblasting your body or any panel can be debated until the pigs fly home. People have been doing it for decades, and get by. However, when you sandblast your body/panels, you run the risk of creating more metal/bodywork for you to do in your restoration. This is because the heat from the sandblaster can warp the panels. ...


12

A six pack usually refers to the Chrysler (Mopar) carburetor setup which is three-two barrel carbs on an intake. You'll most often hear of it as a 440 Six Pack, the 440 referring to the Big Block Mopar engine displacing 440 cubic inches. Here is an image of such a setup: The interesting thing about these is they are setup sequentially, where the main 2-...


10

Sand blasting is perfectly safe for the metal, especially considering the heavier panels used in classic cars. However, it's less safe for the person doing the sandblasting, due to the higher levels of lead paint and bodywork used in old cars. Pure lead was often used to fill dents and body seams in older cars, and you can imagine what breathing a cloud of ...


8

When purchasing any vehicle, new or old, you will have to inspect it for rust damage. Certain vehicles are known to rust in specific areas due to the nature of their design. Surface rust may just be that, surface rust. Flash rusting does not necessarily mean that the metal is rotten right through. Here is an example of flash rust. Most of the time, you ...


8

I would use epoxy primer to start. You can then spray paintable undercoat on your frame, underbody. They come in various forms as depicted in the image below. You may also use a rocker guard type product as shown. To my personal taste, I would seal with epoxy primer, rubberized undercoat, and then oil undercoating to protect even further. Application is ...


8

If building for a street vehicle, according to this forum post, they say that for 2x3, 2x4, and 2x5, 0.120" wall rectangular tubing is more than adequate for car frames. If you have to go a bit thicker to find what you want, even better. If you are building for competition use, you'll have to look up what their regulations state. Every sanctioning body will ...


8

A "Z" frame refers to a modification done to what would otherwise be a straight framed vehicle. Here is an image of two frames (done via 3D printing) of what the difference would be: the idea is to take the straight frame (top) and make the zig-zag in it. This in effect, lowers the body closer to the road without having to drastically alter the suspension. ...


7

If there is no metal to metal contact, there is no ground. That applies to both of your scenarios. The powder-coating will act as an insulator. Personally, I would drill the hole in the frame, install a bolt through the hole. Powder-coat that so that there is a bare spot under the head of the bolt that doesn't get covered. Then use that bolt to install ...


7

A 'Blower' is another name for a supercharger, particularly 'Roots' type superchargers that use long figure-of-8 shaped vanes to force or 'blow' air into the engine. The only 'specific requirements' are that the engine internals are strong enough to cope with the extra power and the fuel system can provide enough fuel to match the extra air from the blower. ...


6

Chopped and channeled refers to two different things, but are usually done together to create a specific look usually utilized by hot rodders. Here is a decent attempt at a Photoshop "chop job" (pun intended), but it is a pretty good representation of a before and after of what it would look like: In this image you can see the top is lowered. The basic ...


6

The problem is with unequal length arms (assuming a 4-link suspension as we were discussing in chat), the pinion angle is going to change as it travels through its arc of motion. You can see it in this graphic what I'm talking about. Due to this you are not going to be able to set it for every ride height. Since your application is not for racing, you want ...


6

You could run a tap through the bolt after powder coating You could add a step to your process. After everything is complete. Nut welded to frame Complete Powder coating Run a tap through the nut to clear out any powder coating in the threads so you have good metal to metal contact with your grounding bolt. The tap should not have any negative effect on ...


6

Must be a location based thing, but in the UK sand hasn't been used for many years due to the very real dangers of inhaling even small amounts of silica from the bashed up sand. Although folks still call it 'sandblasting', in reality it's 'media blasting' and the media varies from tiny plastic or glass beads to ground up walnut shells (believe it or not!). ...


6

You have a couple of options: Open butt joint Butt joint with backing Lap Joint Offset joint Open Butt Joint Source I would not recommend this for joining frame rails, even though some manufactures (Toyota for example) recommend this type joint for sectioning procedures. Butt joint with a backing Can be made from a piece of one of the frame rails, or ...


5

I was watching the show called Stacey David's Gearz ... it's one of those Saturday morning vehicle shows (at least that's the time I see it). He's been around the block a couple of times and his shows are a little cheezy, but he seems very knowledgeable. This one episode I saw, he was shortening the frame of a C10 to take it from a long bed to a short bed ...


5

Yes, sand blasting is safe if you're safe Safety is variable. What is safe? Almost anything can be safe. Exploding bombs can be safe, it just depends on the process you implement for your safety and the safety of others. Is sand blasting safe? Not if you sand blast with dioxin laced sand, but even then, you can wear a pressure suit and possibly make ...


5

TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) is used generally on thinner metals and or aluminum. It would have less penetration than MIG (Metal Inert Gas) Welding. I would not recommend TIG welding the Frame on any vehicle.


5

I would recommend checking the regulations of an appropriate race series, as anything that meets or exceeds these specifications should also be suitable for road use. For example, the UK MSA regulations on Roll-over protection state: K1.3.8. Guidance on Welding. All welding should be of the highest possible quality with full penetration and preferably ...


4

Treat them like other suspension components (and with a similar lifespan). The reason it's so hard to get an answer on lifespan is that it's very dependent on the installation and the other components. If it's installed incorrectly - which happens a lot - then the bag can rub against other parts of the car, and won't last as long. Use cheap hoses, or a dodgy ...


3

To add to Jonathan Musso's answer - Do your homework. For most older cars, rust patterns are well known, so a bit of time spent perusing owner's club forums etc will enable you to get a good list of places to check for rot (for example, for a Series Land Rover, it's the bulkhead and the chassis outriggers). You'll also be able to get a list of other things ...


3

To see a real car that has been 'chopped' and 'channeled', check out my custom car: http://lilmerc.co.uk As stated in the answer above, the 30s/40s/50s/60s cars are usually the best candidates as they have a separate chassis and body - after this period (and in modern cars) the chassis and body are merged together (this is referred to as a monocoque). The ...


3

Absolutely not restricted to any build. A 9" Ford rear-end is utilized in just about every kind of hotrod build out there, mainly due to its strength and longevity. You can find one made (built) for just about any application out there. You can even find them without any type of mounting on them where you can add your specific type of mounts for a specific ...


2

It is where part of the floor of the body shell is cut (chopped) and the slid over the chassis. So normally the whole body would sit on top of the chassis, it now fits around so the sides over lap the chassis rails. The floor is then modified to fit. The purpose is to make the vehicle lower without affecting ground clearance.


1

Welding sheet metal is tricky even with a TIG welder under ideal conditions in a shop. MIG & stick are even riskier. Your situation offers MANY points of failure. Even if you can get a torch into the back side of the battery tray mount, there may not be enough metal left to weld. I would suggest you use a "cooler" low-tech approach like a rivet nut ...


1

Be very careful in getting someone to sandblast your car. Frame, engine compartment, door jambs, underneath are all fine as these are thicker reinforced metal. Quarter panels, door panels, roofs, hood, trunk lid and fenders are not. People will tell you that they have done it many times for high quality paint jobs, then make a mess of it. The heat will warp ...


1

TIG welds aren't inherently stronger than MIG welds, assuming that a similar filler metal is used. The main advantage of TIG welding is that it gives very fine control of both current and metal deposition rate and as such better control of how much heat goes into the base metal. This becomes especially important when welding thin metal or high alloy steels ...


1

Tig welding should be fine as long as your machine is designed for welding at that thickness. For example if your frame rails are formed from 1/4" thick steel, you should be using something like a 300 amp tig setup.


1

I assume you have a brake pedal that does not go together the floor. With rear wheels on stands the proportioning valve will think the car is in a hard stop situation and not allow the rear wheels to give full braking. Try supporting the same ear at the axle so the wheels are up under the car as they would be while on the he ground. Then the proportioning ...


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