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31

While I cannot see the back rotors very well, I can tell you without a doubt, the front rotors are brand new. You can still see the crosshatching on the surface which means it was prepped. It doesn't show any wear at all. The rear brakes (from what I can see) are in good condition as well, though appear to be a bit older and more used. The misconception you ...


13

It's not required that you replace your brake rotors at the same time you replace your brake pads, but there are many reasons why it's highly recommended. Primarily, it's not the rust you should worry about, there most likely always going to be some rust around the edges, that's not at all out of the ordinary. The main problem is that your rotors are most ...


12

The following repair is cheap, easy and should last for 3 to 5 or more years depending on your climate, but it's not the "correct way" either. Remove the rust, paint and body protection around the hole with a wire brush wheel. Extend the area until you have clean, non-rusted metal all around the hole. Cut some glass fiber pads that cover the hole and all of ...


12

If you're okay with the cosmetic affects of the rust then the only one there that I would even remotely consider an issue is the one above the rear window (pic #4). Front & Rear door - there are on the skin of the door which is just a thin sheet of metal over the structural frame of the door - they aren't structural and aren't going to present any ...


11

A tap/die is not the same thing as a thread chaser - while it can be used that way, you have a higher risk of cutting new threads instead of renewing old threads. A proper thread chaser will clean up old threads with a much lower risk of cross threading. They can save threads that appear destroyed and are well worth the expense. Here is a Craftsman set ...


11

Though each car is different, yes, they may tend to rust faster in coastal areas. This is even true for newer models. Newer models may resist corrosion (rust) better than older ones, but they are still susceptible. Anything that is prone to corrosion is going to be at a higher risk in coastal areas. Sea water gets aerosolized, which creates airborne salt ...


9

If your rotors are thick enough and there are no defects in pads area (big grooves, buldgy edges) I would not worry at all. There's no need to replace rotors each time. If there are some defects that can be removed and the rotors are thick enough - consider resurfacing the rotors, that might be cheaper. All-in-all, given that the only downside is faster ...


9

First is to soak them with a good penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or Sea Foam. If you have access to an impact wrench, electric might work but pneumatics tend to have more torque. If you don't own one consider renting one or purchasing one from a store with a liberal return policy. If that is out of the question slide a pipe, crow bar, large ...


8

Regular washing and waxing is your best bet. We kept our cars in one piece through the Rochester, NY winters with nothing more than this. The wax provides a sacrificial protective coating for the painted parts of the body. You can apply wax to your wheels as well. As a bonus, the brake dust will be easier to wash off of a waxed wheel. Then wash, wash, ...


8

Wash off the salt whenever possible. Inspect the car regularly (especially in locations where salt and water can get trapped). Repair any noticable damage immediately (damaged paint, damaged undercoating, etc). Set aside some spare funds in the anticipation of such repairs. My experience is that body panels don't rust, it's the strut towers, floor, and ...


8

First thing you need to get some type of penetrating oil. You need something like LiquidWrench,PB Blaster or SeaFoam. My personal favorite is PB Blaster. The second thing you need is patience. If you can, give the penetrant several days to work. I have had goodluck wrapping the fitting in a strip of rag and soaking it with the oil. If you can get the quick ...


8

When purchasing any vehicle, new or old, you will have to inspect it for rust damage. Certain vehicles are known to rust in specific areas due to the nature of their design. Surface rust may just be that, surface rust. Flash rusting does not necessarily mean that the metal is rotten right through. Here is an example of flash rust. Most of the time, you ...


8

I have no idea if this is legal where you live, or what tools or supplies you have, but this is what I would do to repair a junker/beater. I have used this for quick farm fixes without welding. You will need; a piece of sheet metal a few inches larger than the rusted area drill and bits pop rivet gun and rivets some kind of sealant Now the fix; Clean the ...


8

There's nothing wrong with your rotors as far as can be seen from your pictures, it's totally normal to have the edges rusty, it doesn't impair them. What's important is that the disk surfaces are in good condition, that is the part that's going to be in contact with the pad, and yours seems fine. There looks to be a good amount of metal left as well.


7

The direct answer is that you have to replace your rotors when they look like this:


7

You are looking for a mask to filter particulates, an N95 HEPA mask or should be sufficient, they are usually pink or purple in color. You are correct that a dust mask is insufficient. If you have a beard, or as I do just think these are more comfortable then you can use a PAPR (pronounced papper) or Powered Air Purifying Respirator. Here are some examples ...


7

Have you tried completely drenching them in PB Blaster or a similar penetrating oil? I've seen it work wonders in the past for me. I'd cover them in a layer of that, and let it sit for several hours. Odds are, it'll dissolve enough rust that you'll be able to work a bolt into it.


6

It's pretty obvious from reading all these replies, that the mechanic shops want you to always replace your rotors, and pay them to do it. Rust on the edges is normal and will happen with new rotors in less than a year, depending on where you live. If the rotors have never been resurfaced, you don't have any deep grooves, and your brakes aren't shuddering ...


6

This is a great question, so let me help. First, I am the owner an auto repair center in New Hampshire and rusted brake rotors are almost an everyday occurrence here. If you live in an area that uses a lot of salt on the roads in the winter, like we do, then this information most likely pertains to you. 99% of the rotors that we have to replace are due to ...


6

One time-honored method is to rub the chromed parts vigorously with alumin(i)um foil. That results in the transfer of alumin(i)um ions to the steel surface, further protecting the surface. WD-40 is a lousy, horrible corrosion prevention agent. If you can get it to last for longer than about 24 hours, you're doing well. It does do some jobs very very well... ...


6

For rust removal... my personal favorite technique involves a lot of distilled white vinegar and a green "scrunge" (like a 3M scrubbing pad) or a pad of steel wool. By "a lot" of vinegar, I mean never allow the surface to get dry - always keep it wet with vinegar or it'll "flash rust" while you work. This generally involves working only a fairly small area (...


6

Do you have a picture of the tank? If you have any holes, obviously you would grind, cut, weld. White vinegar does wonders. Fill it up to the brim, add some change. Let it sit for days, preferably a week. As you drain the tank, shake it rigorously, the flakes will come off. If you need to do this again, you most certainly can. Vinegar is a cost effective ...


6

I would use something like WD40, and a soft cloth to rub the rust away. Then apply the right amount of chain lubricant and you will be good to go. You can use a brass bristle brush, provided you do it gently like this guy in the video. A toothbrush will also work. This is light surface rust and IMHO nothing to worry about too much.


6

Rust is a chemical reaction that occurs when metal contacts air and water. The type of reaction is electrochemical, meaning electrons are being exchanged, and salty water being very conductive just speeds things way up. Knowing this, you have options: Don't let the car get wet. Don't drive in wet weather and don't park the car outside. Ever. The more access ...


5

Yes and you should. Rust is always bad and it sounds like you have a relatively easy job. Remember, if you have rust, you don't have paint. If you're careful, there shouldn't be any effect on the paint surrounding the threaded hole. In terms of cleaning the threads out, you're going to need an abrasive to remove the rust and then a tool to remove any ...


5

Remove the rust! Paint won't do much good on top of rust, and it won't last either. There are some chemicals you can spray on rusted surfaces, but I think sanding is generally best. I just tackled this project with my car. For small areas, sandpaper will work for removing rust. For larger areas (which I had), a flap wheel sander with a cordless drill was ...


5

I worked at a shop that repaired fuel tanks and this is what we did. No cutting corners, each step depends on the last. The shop had a fancy caustic soda tub and some of the techs would call that an acid bath, but we used this on very few tanks. Mostly small, well constructed, steel motorcycle tanks. This is what we did for the other tanks that were not ...


5

The photo you have added is not of chrome rims. Chrome rims are a lot harder and can be cleaned with what you've suggested. Aluminium rims are a lot softer and easily get stains, though they don't get the actual rust (mostly). I've had similar stains on my Ford and was able to get rid of them after 2-3 iterations of Armour-All Wheel cleaner. I think any ...


5

Try to remove as much rust as possible with either a die grinder or other rotary device with a wire wheel. Then just use some rust paint to spray over them. You don't even have to take them off the car if you don't want to. Honestly you could even skip the wire wheel if you are feeling really lazy but you may have to respray them every 6 months depending on ...


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