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31

While I cannot see the back rotors very well, I can tell you without a doubt, the front rotors are brand new. You can still see the crosshatching on the surface which means it was prepped. It doesn't show any wear at all. The rear brakes (from what I can see) are in good condition as well, though appear to be a bit older and more used. The misconception you ...


13

It's not required that you replace your brake rotors at the same time you replace your brake pads, but there are many reasons why it's highly recommended. Primarily, it's not the rust you should worry about, there most likely always going to be some rust around the edges, that's not at all out of the ordinary. The main problem is that your rotors are most ...


12

The following repair is cheap, easy and should last for 3 to 5 or more years depending on your climate, but it's not the "correct way" either. Remove the rust, paint and body protection around the hole with a wire brush wheel. Extend the area until you have clean, non-rusted metal all around the hole. Cut some glass fiber pads that cover the hole and all of ...


12

If you're okay with the cosmetic affects of the rust then the only one there that I would even remotely consider an issue is the one above the rear window (pic #4). Front & Rear door - there are on the skin of the door which is just a thin sheet of metal over the structural frame of the door - they aren't structural and aren't going to present any ...


11

A tap/die is not the same thing as a thread chaser - while it can be used that way, you have a higher risk of cutting new threads instead of renewing old threads. A proper thread chaser will clean up old threads with a much lower risk of cross threading. They can save threads that appear destroyed and are well worth the expense. Here is a Craftsman set ...


11

Though each car is different, yes, they may tend to rust faster in coastal areas. This is even true for newer models. Newer models may resist corrosion (rust) better than older ones, but they are still susceptible. Anything that is prone to corrosion is going to be at a higher risk in coastal areas. Sea water gets aerosolized, which creates airborne salt ...


10

Don’t use old engine oil - it has lots of contaminants in it. Use a fine layer of clean oil - just a drop or two spread with a rag is sufficient.


9

First is to soak them with a good penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or Sea Foam. If you have access to an impact wrench, electric might work but pneumatics tend to have more torque. If you don't own one consider renting one or purchasing one from a store with a liberal return policy. If that is out of the question slide a pipe, crow bar, large ...


9

If your rotors are thick enough and there are no defects in pads area (big grooves, buldgy edges) I would not worry at all. There's no need to replace rotors each time. If there are some defects that can be removed and the rotors are thick enough - consider resurfacing the rotors, that might be cheaper. All-in-all, given that the only downside is faster ...


8

The direct answer is that you have to replace your rotors when they look like this:


8

When purchasing any vehicle, new or old, you will have to inspect it for rust damage. Certain vehicles are known to rust in specific areas due to the nature of their design. Surface rust may just be that, surface rust. Flash rusting does not necessarily mean that the metal is rotten right through. Here is an example of flash rust. Most of the time, you ...


8

I have no idea if this is legal where you live, or what tools or supplies you have, but this is what I would do to repair a junker/beater. I have used this for quick farm fixes without welding. You will need; a piece of sheet metal a few inches larger than the rusted area drill and bits pop rivet gun and rivets some kind of sealant Now the fix; Clean the ...


8

There's nothing wrong with your rotors as far as can be seen from your pictures, it's totally normal to have the edges rusty, it doesn't impair them. What's important is that the disk surfaces are in good condition, that is the part that's going to be in contact with the pad, and yours seems fine. There looks to be a good amount of metal left as well.


7

This is a great question, so let me help. First, I am the owner an auto repair center in New Hampshire and rusted brake rotors are almost an everyday occurrence here. If you live in an area that uses a lot of salt on the roads in the winter, like we do, then this information most likely pertains to you. 99% of the rotors that we have to replace are due to ...


7

It's pretty obvious from reading all these replies, that the mechanic shops want you to always replace your rotors, and pay them to do it. Rust on the edges is normal and will happen with new rotors in less than a year, depending on where you live. If the rotors have never been resurfaced, you don't have any deep grooves, and your brakes aren't shuddering ...


7

You are looking for a mask to filter particulates, an N95 HEPA mask or should be sufficient, they are usually pink or purple in color. You are correct that a dust mask is insufficient. If you have a beard, or as I do just think these are more comfortable then you can use a PAPR (pronounced papper) or Powered Air Purifying Respirator. Here are some examples ...


7

Have you tried completely drenching them in PB Blaster or a similar penetrating oil? I've seen it work wonders in the past for me. I'd cover them in a layer of that, and let it sit for several hours. Odds are, it'll dissolve enough rust that you'll be able to work a bolt into it.


6

One time-honored method is to rub the chromed parts vigorously with alumin(i)um foil. That results in the transfer of alumin(i)um ions to the steel surface, further protecting the surface. WD-40 is a lousy, horrible corrosion prevention agent. If you can get it to last for longer than about 24 hours, you're doing well. It does do some jobs very very well... ...


6

For rust removal... my personal favorite technique involves a lot of distilled white vinegar and a green "scrunge" (like a 3M scrubbing pad) or a pad of steel wool. By "a lot" of vinegar, I mean never allow the surface to get dry - always keep it wet with vinegar or it'll "flash rust" while you work. This generally involves working only a fairly small area (...


6

Do you have a picture of the tank? If you have any holes, obviously you would grind, cut, weld. White vinegar does wonders. Fill it up to the brim, add some change. Let it sit for days, preferably a week. As you drain the tank, shake it rigorously, the flakes will come off. If you need to do this again, you most certainly can. Vinegar is a cost effective ...


6

I would use something like WD40, and a soft cloth to rub the rust away. Then apply the right amount of chain lubricant and you will be good to go. You can use a brass bristle brush, provided you do it gently like this guy in the video. A toothbrush will also work. This is light surface rust and IMHO nothing to worry about too much.


6

Rust is a chemical reaction that occurs when metal contacts air and water. The type of reaction is electrochemical, meaning electrons are being exchanged, and salty water being very conductive just speeds things way up. Knowing this, you have options: Don't let the car get wet. Don't drive in wet weather and don't park the car outside. Ever. The more access ...


5

I worked at a shop that repaired fuel tanks and this is what we did. No cutting corners, each step depends on the last. The shop had a fancy caustic soda tub and some of the techs would call that an acid bath, but we used this on very few tanks. Mostly small, well constructed, steel motorcycle tanks. This is what we did for the other tanks that were not ...


5

The photo you have added is not of chrome rims. Chrome rims are a lot harder and can be cleaned with what you've suggested. Aluminium rims are a lot softer and easily get stains, though they don't get the actual rust (mostly). I've had similar stains on my Ford and was able to get rid of them after 2-3 iterations of Armour-All Wheel cleaner. I think any ...


5

If you want it to look nice/new/fresh/exciting, you will not be able to get it this way without removing the wheel. There is just no way of completely cleaning/coating the caliper without removing the wheel. Your best bet to get them cleaned up is to: Remove the wheel Pull the caliper from it's mount Remove the pads (keeping them in positional order for ...


5

The manufactures take several steps to prevent corrosion. Zinc coating to the bare steel at the steel mil metal treatment electrodeposition coating (E-coat) seam sealers chip-resistant coatings Top Coats Undercoating Here is an illustration form Axalta Shinto Coating Systems BMW as a video on this page that shows the whole painting process. Nothing ...


5

If I were you, I'd just do it right and be done with it. Don't feel bad about the peeling paint as all of the Dodge/Chrysler products of the era did the same thing (GM had a phase of this as well ... I would bet Ford had its problems in this area to boot). The problem was (from my understanding) when manufacturers were required to go to water based paint to ...


5

You shouldn't need to use sealant on the gaskets. Most exhaust manifold gaskets either come with their own sealant (like Fel-Pro's do with the silver looking stuff), or they are metal and don't require it either. I believe sealants (such as high temp Permatex Copper) will just burn off anyway, because the heat at the head/header interface is far beyond what ...


5

In general silicone gease applied to the parts before and after assembly is a good way to go. It will be pushed out of the way where you have tight metal to metal contact so it won't cause electrical connection problems. It won't crack up if things move slightly and it won't stop you dismantling and reassembling things if you need to.


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