• A/C and compressor work fine when starting car for the first time for the day
  • A/C and compressor stayed working fine when idling 5-10 minutes
  • A/C and compressor work fine for a few minutes when driving
  • A/C and compressor cut out after driving for about 10 minutes
  • Freon charge appears to be fine, Freon refill PSI gauge read 45 PSI on cold start with compressor running

Things I've tried so far:

  • Replaced the AIR COND 15A fuse in the Central Junction Box

I've read that the Constant Control Relay Module, or more specifically the AC clutch relay (or its solder joints) within the CCRM can go bad, and it seems to be a somewhat common occurrence for my vehicle. However, I don't want to go out and buy a replacement for $100+, nor do I want to try to drill out the rivets keeping the CCRM housing fastened, then try to find bolts that will work to replace the then destroyed rivets.

What would be the recommended next steps that I could do to troubleshoot my issue?

I own a multimeter so I can check voltages of components if need be. I also own the Workshop Manuals and Wiring Diagrams books, that I've been trying to use to troubleshoot the issue, albeit not very well...

1 Answer 1


I have seen this when the clutch gap on the compressor gets to wide, when its cold it works, but after warm up the gap gets wide enough it cannot engage.

Simple test is to bump the outer face of the clutch inward while engine is running and ac has stopped working, if the clutch grabs and compressor starts turning you have found your problem. Be careful doing this, parts are turning with engine running, use a long wood stick to bump the clutch face.

Fix is to replace the compressor or pull the outer clutch face and see if there are shims on the compressor shaft or up in the hole on the clutch face, remove some of the shims and reinstall clutch face.

Here is a wiring diagram of the AC clutch circuit which may help you diagnose.

enter image description here

  • And if the clutch doesn't stick, then the clutch isn't activated, so it isn't getting the electrical signal, so there's a break somewhere up the line I'm assuming?
    – rossy__
    Commented Jun 4, 2018 at 17:49
  • The clutch coil could be bad also, next step is to see if voltage is being supplied to clutch coil.
    – Moab
    Commented Jun 4, 2018 at 18:47
  • @rossy__ see my edit above.
    – Moab
    Commented Jun 4, 2018 at 18:57
  • so I found today that the compressor clutch was getting power, but seemed to engage only part of the way and wouldn't make contact with the pully, but per your suggestion, pushing on the clutch face towards the pully wheel on the compressor made it engage the rest of the way and made the compressor run. Is this an air gap issue that would require taking the clutch off and removing one or two so the air gap is within spec again?
    – rossy__
    Commented Jun 6, 2018 at 3:38
  • " Is this an air gap issue that would require taking the clutch off and removing one or two so the air gap is within spec again?" Yes.
    – Moab
    Commented Jun 6, 2018 at 15:09

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