Hauling a motorcycle cross country — more or less wrong ways to do it.

Question

I need to haul a 425 lb KLR650 motorcycle from Hoboken NJ to Oakland CA. I'm on a budget so I'd like to do this as cheap as possible (under $200 is great, maybe $500 max).

I have a 1996 B4V VW TDI Passat Wagon and I already have a Class II 1-1/4" receiver hitch and wiring ready.

Option 1: buy a light duty trailer, trailer the bike, sell trailer at the other end. Harbor Freight has a couple of options between $250-$300.

• Pros: it's the right way to do it.
• Cons: trailer adds extra haul weight, limited to 55 MPH across the entire USA (trailering speed limit) adds drive time and hotel costs.

Option 2: Use a motorcycle caddy to tow bike, sell caddy in Oakland. http://goo.gl/GWnf3k

• Pros: less total weight to haul, better handling.
• Cons: 3,000 miles on my brand new rear tire, still technically limited to 55 MPH adds drive time and hotel cost.

Option 3: Use a motorcycle carrier to haul bike as cargo, sell carrier in Oakland. http://goo.gl/BBEPmj

• Pros: no more 55 MPH speed limit! And less chance of theft, I think.
• Cons: puts about 450-500 lbs over the rear bumper. Exceeds Class II weight limits! May have terrible handling?

Here's the idiotic part. I really want to do option 3 but the Class II hitch is rated for 300-350 lbs. That gives me a couple of thoughts about jury-rigging a solution:

• I could buy a 1.25" receiver carrier and supplement it with cargo straps to the roof rack. If I transfer 100-200 lbs to the rack I ought to be golden. Note: the only 1.25" carrier I found is expensive and only rates for 250 lbs.
• I could buy a 2" receiver carrier and a 1.25" to 2" receiver adapter. Still exceeds the Class II weight limit and I'd still need to transfer load to the roof rack.
• I could bolt or weld a $30 Class III receiver to the steel bumper, and either cut an access hole in the plastics (plastics are already damaged) or drive with the rear bumper plastics off.

This still leaves me with unresolved questions about handling and safety.

Am I a total idiot? Any thoughts?

Answer 1

If it was me, I would buy the HF trailer with the 12" wheels, put a deck of 3/4 ply on it, bolt a front wheel chock to it, screw down some rear wheel blocks, strap it tight and pull the trailer. Total cost about $400 and you can sell the trailer for at least $300 at the other end.

I've done just that with my much heavier R1100GS and it did PA <-> FL a couple of times just fine and often at speeds much better than 55 MPH. A KLR won't weigh as much and you can easily pull both with a TDI. You could sell the trailer when you get there, but you won't want to. Buy an 8' 2x12 when you get the plywood to make an on-off ramp.

Just keep the tires pumped up to 45-50 psi and check the wheel bearing end play every day or two when traveling. Also add lots of extra bearing grease when assembling the trailer.