The bike Suzuki sling shot. When starting the bike every day its nearly takes 20 to 25 Manual kicks. Is this a engine fault or any other reason?.

And the another thing is when riding The bike , When i rise accelerator its takes 1 sec and then increases the speed of the bike. How can i solve it.

And then when driving bike, riding nearly 1 km itself, gets the engine very very hot.

  • I'm not sure what you mean by "20 to 25 click by clicker". Is that a press of the starter button? A revolution of the engine? Is it making a clicking sound instead of turning over? A video would help. – raydowe May 3 '17 at 9:16
  • What is "very very hot". Do you have a coolant temperature gauge, and what is the reading? How are you determining it's hot to the point of being a problem? – raydowe May 3 '17 at 9:17
  • Thanks for your reple @raydowe. Clicker means, Its near to the engine. Which is used to start the bike. Right hand side of the bike – User6667769 May 3 '17 at 9:36
  • by "clicker" do you mean the manual kick-start? – Solar Mike May 3 '17 at 9:42
  • 1
    It's an air cooled engine, so no coolant to read @raydowe. – GdD May 3 '17 at 10:26

20 kicks is a lot, I'd expect 2 or 3 kicks should be enough to start a motorcycle. Looking at the slingshot specs it says it's a carbureted engine, not fuel injected, I suspect what's happening is that the carburetor is dry and it's taking a few kicks to get fuel pumped into it rather than any sort of mechanical problem.

I would suggest you do the following before kicking your bike:

  1. Set the choke to full on for cold starts
  2. Quickly twist the throttle full on once or twice, this will trigger the carb's accelerator pump to squirt some fuel into the carb, so it can be drawn into the engine. This is called priming. Too many twists can flood your carburetor, so try 1 or 2 twists at first. I know some engines which need 3-4, but that's pretty rare

If you have a long lag between twisting the throttle and getting power then it could be a few things. You could have a loose throttle cable or it could be frayed, the carburetor mixture could be off, the carb's accelerator pump may not be squirting enough fuel when the throttle is applied quickly (the pump could also be sending too much fuel, flooding then engine), or the engine timing could be off. I'd suggest getting it tuned.

As for the heat, air-cooled motorcycle engines tend to get pretty hot, you can certainly burn yourself on them, so there may not be a problem at all. Slow driving will cause greater heating as there's less airflow over the engine to cool it, and if the air temperature is hot to begin with the air will cool it less. It could possibly be that your fuel-air mixture is too lean, which means there's no excess fuel to evaporate and cool the engine. Again, I would suggest a tune-up.

It doesn't sound to me like you have any real issues, priming the carburetor before kicking and getting the bike tuned will probably solve these things.

  • Thanks for your answer, I try all those things you mentioned above. Hope it will help me. If it will work, I will let you know and make it as answer. – User6667769 May 3 '17 at 12:00
  • I hope it helps, because I know how it feels. Many years back my bike started stalling on the hottest day of summer many years back, I had to kick it back to life about 30 times to get where I needed to go and by the time I got there I needed treatment for heat exhaustion! – GdD May 3 '17 at 12:10
  • Hey friend , "Quickly Twist the throttle" You mean rapidly increase the accelarator while starting the bike(Manual-kick)? – User6667769 May 4 '17 at 4:43
  • Not while starting the bike, but just before. It's twist a couple of times, then kick, not twist while kicking. You have to twist the throttle quickly to activate the accelerator pump. – GdD May 4 '17 at 7:06
  • Oh thanks, You mean i need to twist the throttle before starting the bike. Ok friend i will do this. – User6667769 May 4 '17 at 7:26

Classic lean running engine, without question. A hot running engine - especially an air cooled one (as there is no liquid system to fail), is a big red flag signifying a lean mixture. Your plug(s) will most likely be white at the electrode if you check it/them. You probably also get exhaust "pops" during deceleration. This is caused by replacing stock exhaust and air filter systems without re-tuning your bikes lungs. Motorcycles are already lean to pass emissions standards, so when you alter how she breaths - you go supper lean. Not good for the gevity of your engine, you'll finish up burning through pistons and heads. To fix : I'm not the greatest with carby's, because like women they're always changing the rules from one carby to the next, but, generally speaking adjusting fuel/air mixture screw will only enrichen the mixture at idle and maybe 1/4 throttle twist. So... you can either : shim up the needle(s) as part of the needle jets or, get bigger jets. I would hit 6-Sigma jet kits up for a complete tune kit. They require model, symptoms, and any mods. They will engineer a complete kit to suit you are you're bike with instructions and diagrams, plus ongoing support for under $100 US.

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