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I was able to successfully change the spark plugs around 75k with no issues breaking off the two piece plugs. I replaced them with Motorcraft plugs. Fast foward to the present at 133k miles and due to the poor design of the spark plug wells, trash (dirt moisture ect) easily goes down the wells. I found this out when I had cylinder 2 misfiring. After pulling the plug and seeing the ignition pack and spark head were fouled considerably (so bad that I had to clean the well before I could even get a socket around the plug), I decided to replace all the packs and plugs.

I was successful in changing all the plugs except #3 which would not come out. I have tried every method I have found for removing a frozen plug which are the following:

"Spray a light penetrating oil and let sit overnight". I let it sit for 3 days, trying every day including the initial day I sprayed it. "Tighten slightly". Would not tighten.

I had a long breaker bar on it and it still wouldn't budge. I refuse to use a cheater bar because at this point, the amount of torque I have applied so far already could have sheared the plug, which would be a nightmare.

The only thing I have not done yet is run the truck to let it warm up before trying to remove it but I have seen mixed reviews about it possible shearing the plug easier when hot.

Your insights are appreciated.

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    Run it to heat the plug then try to undo it. Cycling heat and cold may help - get the engine hot then spray that plug with electrical freezer and try to undo. – Solar Mike Nov 27 '20 at 21:31
  • @SolarMike - Sounds like a good way to warp the head. – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Nov 28 '20 at 14:58
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    In the future, use anti-seize on the spark plugs as this should help prevent them from getting stuck. – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 Nov 28 '20 at 14:59
  • @Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 if you think I put spray the head then yes warping could well occur but I wrote spray the plug... as those cans have a nozzle and jet they are directable, however flammability is a concern. – Solar Mike Nov 28 '20 at 15:56
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I have used Seafoam Deep Creep on extremely tough O2 sensors. Squirt and leave 30 minutes. Apply removal torque only ... do not wiggle or torque back and forth. It will fatigue the metal and break for sure.

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Solved

I used a combination of the suggested tricks in order to remove the frozen plug. First, I sprayed Seafoam Deep Creep in a fairly liberal amount. I think this is key for it to penetrate well enough. The first time I used a lubricant, I did so sparingly.

Next, I put the ignition pack back in the vehicle after an hour of the Sea Foam treatment. I was worried about this step somewhat given that the Seafoam is highly flammable so I kept a fire extinguisher on hand in case there were any issues.

Next, I used an impact to try and removed it. This failed, to which I then proceeded to use a breaker bar and was able to break the plug free.

Thanks for all the advice and I hope this is able to help someone else out with a similar problem!

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  • Good job! +1 for self-answering – user60481 Dec 7 '20 at 15:34

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