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Last weekend, I put new Wilwood calipers, pads and stainless brake lines on the rear of my 06 Solstice.

On Tuesday, I started seeing an intermittent ABS warning light. Yesterday (Wednesday), I started seeing an intermittent battery light. Late yesterday, the DIC flickered on and off a few times within about 30 seconds, then went back to normal.

The car no longer has an e-brake (waiting on the small calipers and brackets for that), so occasionally the parking brake warning light also comes on when the handle moves up or down due to a bump or hard acceleration.

The engine runs great. No problems starting. Battery is about 10 months old, spent a few months disconnected (positive and negative) while I was rebuilding the engine.

Normally, I'd think this was a failing alternator or a loose ground, but everything else appears to be working fine.

I've put about 600 miles on the car since I put the rebuilt engine in. Problems started a day or two after the new brakes went on.

Also had a CEL for a day that went away on its own. I have an HP Tuners interface, but haven't yet scanned to see what the cause was.

Suggestions? Brake fluid looks good, clutch works fine (shared reservoir).

I also replaced the Solstice dash with one from a Saturn SKY (much cooler), which involved removing and reinstalling the instrument cluster. In this car, everything - speedo,tach etc.) are electronically connected - no hard cables going anywhere. The speedo and tach work perfectly.

Noticed instrument backlight slightly pulsing intermittently.

I love saying "intermittent." Usually leads to "uhhhhh... Dunno." :)

Also, I was in some pretty heavy rain.

update

DTCs:

0x7E8: P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1) (Pending, Current, History)

0x7E8: P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected (Current)

0x7E8: P0563 - System Voltage High (Pending, Current)

0x7E8: P0621 - Generator Lamp Terminal Circuit

Freeze frame:

Freeze Frame: 0

DTC: P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)

Fuel System Status: 02 00

Calculated Engine Load: 13.3333333333333 %

Engine Coolant Temp: 90 °C

Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: -14.84375 %

Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 18.75 %

Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 27 kPa

Engine RPM: 1653 rpm

Vehicle Speed: 0 km/h

Timing Advance: 16 °

Intake Air Temp: 21 °C

Mass Air Flow: 4 g/s

Throttle Position: 21.1764705882353 %

Run Time Since Engine Start: 749 s

Commanded EVAP Purge: 12.9411764705882 %

Fuel Level Input: 41.5686274509804 %

EVAP System Vapor Pressure: 16355 kPa

Barometric Pressure: 110 kPa

Catalyst Temp B1S1: 887 °C

Control Module Voltage: 13 V

Absolute Load: 10.9803921568627 %

Commanded EQ Ratio: 1

Relative Throttle Position: 9.41176470588235 %

Ambient Air Temp: 21 °C

Absolute Throttle Position B: 21.1764705882353 %

Accelerator Position D: 18.8235294117647 %

Accelerator Position E: 9.41176470588235 %

Commanded Throttle Actuator: 12.156862745098 %

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  • 2
    Sounds like a cool project car! I'm a novice with brakes, but could it be caused by a front/rear imbalance due to your Wilwood's having different size/quantity/volume pistons?
    – MooseLucifer
    Commented Mar 31, 2016 at 15:07
  • Yeah, it's interesting. Engine#4 now, which is really rebuilt engine #2. The front brakes are 6-piston Wilwoods, tears are 4-pots. The stock configuration is single-piston sliders all around, so the balance has definitely changed. Never had an issue like this after the front upgrade, though. :/
    – 3Dave
    Commented Mar 31, 2016 at 15:10
  • Sorry, what's DIC?
    – Zaid
    Commented Mar 31, 2016 at 19:37
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    It sounds like somethings wrong with the IPC I'd recheck the IPC ground 1st. You mentioned heavy rain. Any leaks? Wet carpet? The IPC ground point is located under the passenger seat. Honestly though until you check to see if there are codes this is just a guess.
    – Ben
    Commented Mar 31, 2016 at 20:44
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    Glad you got your Solstice back on the road, David! I'd definitely look at two things: 1st is pull the codes; 2nd inspect the speed sensors and connectors on the rear. @Ben I think may be on to something. If those don't pan out, I usually chalk intermittent electrical problems to grounding issues ... finding the ground which is causing the issue can be very problematic, though.
    – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 ♦
    Commented Apr 1, 2016 at 10:42

1 Answer 1

Reset to default
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There's a specific bleed procedure for the ABS

If you didn't follow the procedure, it could be the root cause of your issue.

Here is the procedure, straight from the factory manual.

Antilock Brake System Automated Bleed Procedure [ Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in Cautions and Notices.

Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in Cautions and Notices.

Important: Before performing the ABS Automated Bleed Procedure, first perform a manual or pressure bleed of the base brake system. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding . The automated bleed procedure is recommended when one of the following conditions exist:

• Base brake system bleeding does not achieve the desired pedal height or feel

• Extreme loss of brake fluid has occurred

• Air ingestion is suspected in the secondary circuits of the brake modulator assembly

The ABS Automated Bleed Procedure uses a scan tool to cycle the system solenoid valves and run the pump in order to purge any air from the secondary circuits. These circuits are normally closed off, and are only opened during system initialization at vehicle start up and during ABS operation. The automated bleed procedure opens these secondary circuits and allows any air trapped in these circuits to flow out toward the brake corners.

Performing the Automated Bleed Procedure

Notice: The Auto Bleed Procedure may be terminated at any time during the process by pressing the EXIT button. No further Scan Tool prompts pertaining to the Auto Bleed procedure will be given. After exiting the bleed procedure, relieve bleed pressure and disconnect bleed equipment per manufacturers instructions. Failure to properly relieve pressure may result in spilled brake fluid causing damage to components and painted surfaces.

  1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .

  2. Remove all four tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .

  3. Inspect the brake system for leaks and visual damage. Refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes . Repair or replace components as needed.

  4. Lower the vehicle.

  5. Inspect the battery state of charge. Refer to Battery Inspection/Test .

  6. Install a scan tool.

  7. Turn the ignition ON, with the engine OFF.

  8. With the scan tool, establish communications with the ABS system. Select Special Functions. Select Automated Bleed from the Special Functions menu.

  9. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .

  10. Following the directions given on the scan tool, pressure bleed the base brake system. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding .

  11. Follow the scan tool directions until the desired brake pedal height is achieved.

  12. If the bleed procedure is aborted, a malfunction exists. Perform the following steps before resuming the bleed procedure: • If a DTC is detected, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle , and diagnose the appropriate DTC.

• If the brake pedal feels spongy, perform the conventional brake bleed procedure again. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding .

  1. When the desired pedal height is achieved, press the brake pedal to inspect for firmness.

  2. Lower the vehicle.

  3. Remove the scan tool.

  4. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .

  5. Inspect the brake fluid level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling .

  6. Road test the vehicle while inspecting that the pedal remains high and firm.

Hope this beneficial to a solution. Please let us know what the issue was when you solve it. Best of luck!

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1
  • Thanks. I plugged up my Tech2 clone and bled the ABS. Hopefully that ones fixed.
    – 3Dave
    Commented Apr 3, 2016 at 1:12

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