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Apparently this error code is often related to low and/or dirty oil. But our oil level is good and relatively clean (only a few hundred miles since the last oil/filter change).

Apparently this error code is often related to low and/or dirty oil. But our oil level is good and relatively clean (only a few hundred miles since the last oil/filter change). Car's total mileage is appx 170k.

[Edit 4.12.2019: Problem has returned] So the car worked well for three days after replacing the VTC solenoid assembly, and today it resumed the performance issue after she was on the interstate for about 30-40 minutes. Since she's out of town and I'm at work, I had her take it directly to the Honda dealership in that city for diagnostics. Still waiting on a call from the service manager though, but I expect it is the same code P1259.

[Edit per comments, 4.9.2019]

@Ben--So I ended up changing that VTC solenoid assembly today. Once it was removed, I thought I could perceive some evidence of moisture in the oil pressure sensor's electrical connection. I found a site that mentioned electrical shorts and even "moisture" can result in this issue. Rather than clean the screen, attempt to dry the part using a hair dryer, then do another test drive and risk ultimately missing more work (or more importantly, hockey tomorrow night), I opted to replace the whole assembly. And the symptoms seem to have disappeared, so far. ::knocks on wood:: Also, while I'm not sure what would qualify as a dirty or clogged screen on that part's gasket, mine looked pretty clean compared to some videos I saw on YouTube. So if you want to post your comment as an answer, I'll accept it.

[Edit 4.9.2019, per comments]

@Ben--So I ended up changing that VTC solenoid assembly today. Once it was removed, I thought I could perceive some evidence of moisture in the oil pressure sensor's electrical connection. I found a site that mentioned electrical shorts and even "moisture" can result in this issue. Rather than clean the screen, attempt to dry the part using a hair dryer, then do another test drive and risk ultimately missing more work (or more importantly, hockey tomorrow night), I opted to replace the whole assembly. And the symptoms seem to have disappeared, so far. ::knocks on wood:: Also, while I'm not sure what would qualify as a dirty or clogged screen on that part's gasket, mine looked pretty clean compared to some videos I saw on YouTube. So if you want to post your comment as an answer, I'll accept it.

[Edit 4.10.2019]

With respect to the inline transmission filter, I found a thread on crvownersclub that includes a comment linking out to a good video that illustrates the flow direction for a 2010 CRV. While this video demonstrates transmission maintenance on a 3rd generation CRV, and ours is a 2nd generation CRV, that inline filter looks the same, and the flow direction graphics presented in the video correspond to everything else I've found so far. So I'm going to take this as confirmation that I got the flow direction correct in my filter replacement. (i.e. Hot ATF enters the radiator on the driver side, then cooled ATF exits on the passenger side and flows through the inline ATF filter on its return leg to the transmission.)

[Edit per comments, 4.9.2019]

@Paulster2 and @Allen--It's not actually a coolant/overheating issue at this point, but an engine performance issue, more specifically a VTEC oil delivery issue. It initially overheated because the upper radiator fitting broke and sprayed coolant all over the engine, which was why I started working on it. But after I got it back together, I suddenly had the performance/VTEC issue. FWIW, my technique for refilling the coolant was to drive it up onto ramps to get the filler neck well above the block, gradually add 50/50 blue, and occasionally rev the engine to about 2500 RPMs for a minute or so, until it would no longer accept anymore coolant.

@Ben--So I ended up changing that VTC solenoid assembly today. Once it was removed, I thought I could perceive some evidence of moisture in the oil pressure sensor's electrical connection. I found a site that mentioned electrical shorts and even "moisture" can result in this issue. Rather than clean the screen, attempt to dry the part using a hair dryer, then do another test drive and risk ultimately missing more work (or more importantly, hockey tomorrow night), I opted to replace the whole assembly. And the symptoms seem to have disappeared, so far. ::knocks on wood:: Also, while I'm not sure what would qualify as a dirty or clogged screen on that part's gasket, mine looked pretty clean compared to some videos I saw on YouTube. So if you want to post your comment as an answer, I'll accept it.