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Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
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I'm guessing here, but I think the problem is your engine control unit (ECU) has not passed the internal smog tests, also known as a "drive cycle". This is part of the OBD II system and are the parameters which are read by the smog station to pass the vehicle. If the ECU has been reset either directly, or as in your case through loss of power (battery replacement), the OBD II system must run the drive cycle again. It is in sort of a "limbo" state while the vehicle does the things to pass the drive cycle. How the drive cycle gets to a valid state can be different in every vehicle type and manufacturer.

Most vehicles check for eight separate things to pass the test, one of them is the catalytic converter. Some of the checks occur right after startup or through what I'd consider an "easy" check. Some of them require quite a few different things to occur for them to pass. This is where the drive cycle comes in.

According to this sitethis site, the drive cycle to pass the cat check for your Land Cruiser is as follows:

  1. Do not turn off the ignition switch during the test procedure.
  2. Allow the vehicle to run at idle until warmed up.
  3. Drive at a steady speed between 40 and 70 MPH for 10 minutes. It’s a good idea to stay in the middle of this range, so 55 MPH is optimal.
  4. It may take several attempts and warm up cycles to complete the drive cycle.

When it says "Drive at a stead speed between 40 and 70 for 10 minutes", it means it. If you go below or above these speeds or even use your brakes (or so I've read), it can invalidate the test and cause it to remain in the "limbo" status. My suggestion is to know your route prior to performing the drive cycle and plan accordingly. In some areas this may be very difficult as traffic can be a bugger.

Other things to consider for tests other than your cat is to ensure your gas tank is only partially full. It needs to be between 1/4 and 3/4 tank in order to check for the EVAP check to occur, and this is between several heating/cooling cycles.

If this does not get your cat passed for emissions purposes, you may have bigger issues which needs to be checked. It is my suggestion to you to purchase an ELM 327 OBD II device from Amazon (very cheap but handy device), then get the Torque Lite app (which is free) for your phone so you can check codes and emissions state on your own. You won't have to go back to the emissions shop to see if the vehicle is ready, you can do it on your own.

I'm guessing here, but I think the problem is your engine control unit (ECU) has not passed the internal smog tests, also known as a "drive cycle". This is part of the OBD II system and are the parameters which are read by the smog station to pass the vehicle. If the ECU has been reset either directly, or as in your case through loss of power (battery replacement), the OBD II system must run the drive cycle again. It is in sort of a "limbo" state while the vehicle does the things to pass the drive cycle. How the drive cycle gets to a valid state can be different in every vehicle type and manufacturer.

Most vehicles check for eight separate things to pass the test, one of them is the catalytic converter. Some of the checks occur right after startup or through what I'd consider an "easy" check. Some of them require quite a few different things to occur for them to pass. This is where the drive cycle comes in.

According to this site, the drive cycle to pass the cat check for your Land Cruiser is as follows:

  1. Do not turn off the ignition switch during the test procedure.
  2. Allow the vehicle to run at idle until warmed up.
  3. Drive at a steady speed between 40 and 70 MPH for 10 minutes. It’s a good idea to stay in the middle of this range, so 55 MPH is optimal.
  4. It may take several attempts and warm up cycles to complete the drive cycle.

When it says "Drive at a stead speed between 40 and 70 for 10 minutes", it means it. If you go below or above these speeds or even use your brakes (or so I've read), it can invalidate the test and cause it to remain in the "limbo" status. My suggestion is to know your route prior to performing the drive cycle and plan accordingly. In some areas this may be very difficult as traffic can be a bugger.

Other things to consider for tests other than your cat is to ensure your gas tank is only partially full. It needs to be between 1/4 and 3/4 tank in order to check for the EVAP check to occur, and this is between several heating/cooling cycles.

If this does not get your cat passed for emissions purposes, you may have bigger issues which needs to be checked. It is my suggestion to you to purchase an ELM 327 OBD II device from Amazon (very cheap but handy device), then get the Torque Lite app (which is free) for your phone so you can check codes and emissions state on your own. You won't have to go back to the emissions shop to see if the vehicle is ready, you can do it on your own.

I'm guessing here, but I think the problem is your engine control unit (ECU) has not passed the internal smog tests, also known as a "drive cycle". This is part of the OBD II system and are the parameters which are read by the smog station to pass the vehicle. If the ECU has been reset either directly, or as in your case through loss of power (battery replacement), the OBD II system must run the drive cycle again. It is in sort of a "limbo" state while the vehicle does the things to pass the drive cycle. How the drive cycle gets to a valid state can be different in every vehicle type and manufacturer.

Most vehicles check for eight separate things to pass the test, one of them is the catalytic converter. Some of the checks occur right after startup or through what I'd consider an "easy" check. Some of them require quite a few different things to occur for them to pass. This is where the drive cycle comes in.

According to this site, the drive cycle to pass the cat check for your Land Cruiser is as follows:

  1. Do not turn off the ignition switch during the test procedure.
  2. Allow the vehicle to run at idle until warmed up.
  3. Drive at a steady speed between 40 and 70 MPH for 10 minutes. It’s a good idea to stay in the middle of this range, so 55 MPH is optimal.
  4. It may take several attempts and warm up cycles to complete the drive cycle.

When it says "Drive at a stead speed between 40 and 70 for 10 minutes", it means it. If you go below or above these speeds or even use your brakes (or so I've read), it can invalidate the test and cause it to remain in the "limbo" status. My suggestion is to know your route prior to performing the drive cycle and plan accordingly. In some areas this may be very difficult as traffic can be a bugger.

Other things to consider for tests other than your cat is to ensure your gas tank is only partially full. It needs to be between 1/4 and 3/4 tank in order to check for the EVAP check to occur, and this is between several heating/cooling cycles.

If this does not get your cat passed for emissions purposes, you may have bigger issues which needs to be checked. It is my suggestion to you to purchase an ELM 327 OBD II device from Amazon (very cheap but handy device), then get the Torque Lite app (which is free) for your phone so you can check codes and emissions state on your own. You won't have to go back to the emissions shop to see if the vehicle is ready, you can do it on your own.

Source Link
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
  • 161.7k
  • 30
  • 256
  • 498

I'm guessing here, but I think the problem is your engine control unit (ECU) has not passed the internal smog tests, also known as a "drive cycle". This is part of the OBD II system and are the parameters which are read by the smog station to pass the vehicle. If the ECU has been reset either directly, or as in your case through loss of power (battery replacement), the OBD II system must run the drive cycle again. It is in sort of a "limbo" state while the vehicle does the things to pass the drive cycle. How the drive cycle gets to a valid state can be different in every vehicle type and manufacturer.

Most vehicles check for eight separate things to pass the test, one of them is the catalytic converter. Some of the checks occur right after startup or through what I'd consider an "easy" check. Some of them require quite a few different things to occur for them to pass. This is where the drive cycle comes in.

According to this site, the drive cycle to pass the cat check for your Land Cruiser is as follows:

  1. Do not turn off the ignition switch during the test procedure.
  2. Allow the vehicle to run at idle until warmed up.
  3. Drive at a steady speed between 40 and 70 MPH for 10 minutes. It’s a good idea to stay in the middle of this range, so 55 MPH is optimal.
  4. It may take several attempts and warm up cycles to complete the drive cycle.

When it says "Drive at a stead speed between 40 and 70 for 10 minutes", it means it. If you go below or above these speeds or even use your brakes (or so I've read), it can invalidate the test and cause it to remain in the "limbo" status. My suggestion is to know your route prior to performing the drive cycle and plan accordingly. In some areas this may be very difficult as traffic can be a bugger.

Other things to consider for tests other than your cat is to ensure your gas tank is only partially full. It needs to be between 1/4 and 3/4 tank in order to check for the EVAP check to occur, and this is between several heating/cooling cycles.

If this does not get your cat passed for emissions purposes, you may have bigger issues which needs to be checked. It is my suggestion to you to purchase an ELM 327 OBD II device from Amazon (very cheap but handy device), then get the Torque Lite app (which is free) for your phone so you can check codes and emissions state on your own. You won't have to go back to the emissions shop to see if the vehicle is ready, you can do it on your own.