Timeline for A/C relay bypassed with jumper, compressor turned on but clutch quickly got hot and smelly
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Jun 20, 2019 at 8:58 | comment | added | Al_ | @user1988 No, a stuck clutch hub means a seized compressor. You'll need to recover any remaining refrigerant/have it recovered, flush the system (flush the refrigerant lines and the evaporator; flush the latter only after removing the TXV), replace the condenser, replace the receiver dryer, check if any dirt reached the TXV (replace it if dirty or if you prefer a new TXV, whatever you choose), replace any o-ring within the system, and replace the compressor. Obviously, first check if you have any leak, because it's leaks that lead to seizures. | |
Jun 17, 2019 at 21:19 | comment | added | user1988 | I grabbed the hub and no way can not spin it. If it's supposed to spin is there any way to loosen it up? Does this mean it's a clutch issue or compressor? Better value to buy a new compressor that spent money on a clutch (with added labor charges?_...looking forward | |
Jun 11, 2019 at 19:18 | comment | added | Al_ | To me, that sounds like your compressor seized. Grab the clutch hub with your hands (engine off and keys in your pocket obviously) and try to spin it around. Does it spin easily with a slight uniform resistance across one whole turn? You weren't supposed to charge the system that way from the start. It's very hard on the compressor. While it's running with low refrigerant, less lubricant is flowing through it than with a full refrigerant charge inside. | |
Jun 10, 2019 at 2:56 | comment | added | Cullub | Actually, reading that again, I'm guessing that that's taking it to a mechanic for them to fill it up. They do it similarly to the way I show in the link in my answer below, so you can take a look at that. (I'm in north central US, and here a garage is where you park your car overnight. We talk about taking your car in to the "Shop" for an oil change.) | |
Jun 10, 2019 at 2:53 | answer | added | Cullub | timeline score: 0 | |
Jun 10, 2019 at 2:45 | comment | added | Cullub | It could be either, and putting too much refrigerant into the system could cause the clutch to go too. What is a "garage charge" from your post? | |
Jun 9, 2019 at 22:54 | comment | added | user1988 | Every spring for several years just added a small can of Duracool on my 92 4R. Pressure is at 85 psi (red zone) & I think it was already in red zone prior to my adding attempt. It was blowing hot. Previously the pressure would go up then settle down as the engine kept running. I'm assuming it's the clutch that's overheating within seconds (it's hot) or could it be the compressor itself? Thanks for the welcome, much appreciated! | |
Jun 9, 2019 at 19:37 | comment | added | Cullub | Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! It's pretty easy to add too much or too little coolant -- did you put the system under vacuum before adding coolant? And how did you decide how much coolant to put in? By weight? Till it felt right? | |
Jun 9, 2019 at 15:16 | history | edited | user1988 | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
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Jun 8, 2019 at 23:30 | review | First posts | |||
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Jun 8, 2019 at 23:29 | history | asked | user1988 | CC BY-SA 4.0 |