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Oct 8, 2018 at 21:49 vote accept alx9r
Apr 1, 2018 at 10:27 comment added NitrusInc This isn't exactly scientific, but if you ensure that the anti-sieze is only at the very top of the plug, in context of near the hex "nut" on the plug, you'll get what you want without worrying about there being excessive lube. I generally only lube about 3-5mm (about 1/4 of the length of thread) from the nut down. You don't have to put it on thick. Just "paint" the nut and threads.
Apr 1, 2018 at 8:59 history tweeted twitter.com/StackMechanics/status/980369150530019328
Apr 1, 2018 at 8:24 answer added ZenJ timeline score: 3
Sep 8, 2017 at 15:27 comment added agentp I'd suggest you pose this on a pwc forum, lots of folks with direct salt water experience.. (I never use antiseize but I run in fresh water..)
Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 comment added alx9r I thought the 1/16 and 1/2 turn corresponded with the taper and gasketed flat seat types, respectively. (Note the arrows point to the seats.) I figured you can achieve 1/2 turn past finger-tight on the latter but not the former because the gasket crushes on first tightening.
Sep 8, 2017 at 2:52 comment added alephzero The main picture seems to imply "insert the plug finger-tight plus 1/16 of a turn, then tighten a further 1/2 turn in a single continuous operation". No torque wrench required!
Sep 8, 2017 at 2:47 comment added alephzero The warning triangle is (fairly obviously) "not for use in engines powering any type of aircraft" - which is irrelevant for the OP. Aircraft engines have (and need) a completely different standard for reliability - and certified maintenance engineers to make sure they are achieved, even for "simple" operations like changing plugs! In any case, these particular plugs may not be suitable for an engine with two independent, magneto-powered, plugs per cylinder, like many aircraft piston engines, rather than one plug and (most likely) an electronic ignition system
Sep 8, 2017 at 2:33 comment added alephzero The problem with anti-seize compounds is getting rid of them the next time you remove the plugs. Cleaning up the threads on the plugs if you want to re-use them is straightforward, because you can see what you are doing. Cleaning up the threads in the cylinder, without debris falling into the cylinder, is a different ballgame. If both sets of threads are clean and undamaged, they will seal properly at the correct torque without any sealing compound, and if not, you need to repair the threads (for example with helicoils), not try to fix the problem with Band-Aid.
Sep 7, 2017 at 22:58 history edited Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 CC BY-SA 3.0
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Sep 7, 2017 at 22:57 answer added Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 timeline score: 4
Sep 7, 2017 at 22:30 answer added DamoC timeline score: 1
Sep 7, 2017 at 22:24 history asked alx9r CC BY-SA 3.0