Timeline for Strange noise from timing belt area
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
35 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| S Nov 25, 2016 at 20:24 | history | bounty ended | Zaid | ||
| S Nov 25, 2016 at 20:24 | history | notice removed | Zaid | ||
| Nov 24, 2016 at 11:33 | history | edited | Robert S. Barnes | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
added 3 characters in body
|
| Nov 24, 2016 at 11:27 | vote | accept | Robert S. Barnes | ||
| Nov 22, 2016 at 18:27 | comment | added | Zach Mierzejewski | Hahahahaha! So, the problem went away on its own? Oh well, we had fun. Thanks for improving the method. Hopefully, this work can be used by someone in the future to actually fix a problem, haha. | |
| Nov 22, 2016 at 16:51 | history | edited | Robert S. Barnes | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
added 3636 characters in body
|
| Nov 22, 2016 at 8:44 | answer | added | kyle_engineer | timeline score: 3 | |
| S Nov 22, 2016 at 6:47 | history | bounty started | Zaid | ||
| S Nov 22, 2016 at 6:47 | history | notice added | Zaid | Reward existing answer | |
| Nov 18, 2016 at 1:47 | answer | added | Zach Mierzejewski | timeline score: 12 | |
| Nov 17, 2016 at 23:48 | comment | added | Martin | @RobertS.Barnes The following link shows a brand new SKF belt. You can clearly see the fibers. auto-bitner.com/ebay/SKF-BMP/SKF-BMP-6.jpg For your timing cover problem: I would suggest you to put marking fluid (engineers blue / something else) on the inside of the cover, let run the engine for a while and then look if the belt has any traces of it. | |
| Nov 17, 2016 at 13:51 | history | edited | Robert S. Barnes | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
added 206 characters in body
|
| Nov 17, 2016 at 13:49 | comment | added | Robert S. Barnes | @Myself My previous belt is solid black on the sides. The thing that made me think this is due to rubbing is that the belt doesn't look like that along all it's length. | |
| Nov 17, 2016 at 13:35 | comment | added | Martin | @RobertS.Barnes The exposed "cooper strands" you see there is the aramide/kevlar/whatever lining of the belt. AFAIK you see them also on a brand new belt. On production the belt gets cut of some large tube of "belt" material. | |
| Nov 17, 2016 at 12:35 | history | edited | Robert S. Barnes | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
added 1918 characters in body
|
| Nov 16, 2016 at 14:52 | answer | added | Cc Dd | timeline score: 3 | |
| Nov 16, 2016 at 11:00 | comment | added | Martin | For the out of track issue: mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/35311/… | |
| Nov 16, 2016 at 8:59 | history | edited | Robert S. Barnes | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
added 91 characters in body
|
| Nov 16, 2016 at 8:41 | history | edited | Robert S. Barnes | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
added 111 characters in body
|
| Nov 14, 2016 at 16:04 | history | edited | Robert S. Barnes | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
added 1096 characters in body
|
| Nov 14, 2016 at 11:30 | comment | added | Robert S. Barnes | Found a really nice video from Schrodinger's Box on diagnosing this kind of stuff: youtu.be/Is_02fID1_g | |
| Nov 13, 2016 at 21:57 | comment | added | Robert S. Barnes | @Myself You put the belt on before you attach the tensioner spring and you zip tie the tensioner like that to make getting the spring on easier. | |
| Nov 13, 2016 at 21:39 | comment | added | Martin | @RobertS.Barnes I do not understand the mentioned installation practice. Afaik the belt gets 1. mounted, 2. the tensioner will get released so the spring will then force the tensioner against the belt and 3. the tensioner will get blocked by tightening the bolt. I do not understand why you need to block the tensioner with a zip tie | |
| Nov 13, 2016 at 19:07 | comment | added | Robert S. Barnes | @Ben Lovely, process of elimination. This is going to be painful. I guess I'll pull the alternator and wp belts first and see if the noise goes away, then if that doesn't narrow it down I'll remove the crank pulley, lower tbelt cover and reinstall all the belts and see what I can see... | |
| Nov 13, 2016 at 15:50 | comment | added | Ben | It doesn't look like the belt is loose in the video if you push on the belt it should be tight. usually when a belt is loose you'll see it whipping side to side. maybe pull the lower cover as well and run it without the v belts. | |
| Nov 13, 2016 at 11:39 | history | edited | Robert S. Barnes | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
added 93 characters in body
|
| Nov 13, 2016 at 11:26 | history | edited | Robert S. Barnes | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
added 54 characters in body
|
| Nov 13, 2016 at 11:15 | comment | added | Robert S. Barnes | @Ben I took a video with the timing cover off, there is a link in the OP. | |
| Nov 13, 2016 at 11:15 | history | edited | Robert S. Barnes | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
added 1584 characters in body
|
| Nov 13, 2016 at 6:28 | comment | added | Robert S. Barnes | @Ben yeah I was planning on pulling the timing cover this morning and getting a visual while it was running to see if the belt was flopping back and forth. Maybe I'll post the video. | |
| Nov 13, 2016 at 4:40 | comment | added | Ben | pull the timing covers off again and check your belt tension. If that tensioner pulley is held by a spring you're going to need a new spring. If the belt is loose recheck your timing marks too When you install the timing belt you should also start from the crank pulley to the idler then around the cams and put it on the tensioner pulley last. | |
| Nov 13, 2016 at 4:28 | comment | added | Robert S. Barnes | @spicetraders I'd like to have a specific reason for replacing something before I start throwing money and parts in an old car. | |
| Nov 12, 2016 at 22:35 | comment | added | spicetraders | I would have replaced both the tensioner springs and idler wheels. Both wear out. | |
| Nov 12, 2016 at 22:13 | history | tweeted | twitter.com/StackMechanics/status/797562947539177472 | ||
| Nov 12, 2016 at 20:01 | history | asked | Robert S. Barnes | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
