Timeline for How could the code point to a faulty cat, when the O2 signals are normal?
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
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| Apr 13, 2017 at 12:47 | history | edited | CommunityBot |
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| Sep 15, 2016 at 17:01 | history | bumped | CommunityBot | This question has answers that may be good or bad; the system has marked it active so that they can be reviewed. | |
| Aug 18, 2016 at 8:31 | comment | added | Steve Matthews | @Calaf, I didn't have to remove the O2 sensor from the vehicle as the wiring damage was quite obvious and easily repaired in situe. | |
| Aug 16, 2016 at 22:46 | history | tweeted | twitter.com/StackMechanics/status/765681214216871936 | ||
| Aug 16, 2016 at 16:15 | comment | added | Ben | you could also try putting an anti fouler on the rear o2 it's not really a fix but sometimes you can get the monitor to pass using one... | |
| Aug 16, 2016 at 16:09 | comment | added | Ben | i'd suggest you get some captures with a longer time base. at idle in park, park at 3000 rpm and cruising at 3000 rpm. seeing a few milliseconds of activity doesn't really say much. i'd also suggest looking into mode 6 and seeing how badly it's falling out of spec. | |
| Aug 16, 2016 at 16:08 | comment | added | Zaid | Try to move the wire around a little while logging post-cat voltage. If you see loss of signal this would prove that the wiring is dodgy | |
| Aug 16, 2016 at 16:07 | answer | added | SteveRacer | timeline score: 1 | |
| Aug 16, 2016 at 15:24 | history | edited | Calaf | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
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| Aug 16, 2016 at 15:15 | comment | added | Calaf | @SteveMatthews I understand that after 15 years the O2 sensors would be very hard to remove from the manifold. Can you confirm that you had to do the inspection and repair with the sensors in-place? | |
| Aug 16, 2016 at 15:06 | comment | added | Steve Matthews | On the specific example I'm referring to, water had gotten into the top of the connector and corroded one of the pins, this then split one of the wires shroud and it was corroded a green colour. I was able to cut into the connector and reconnect the wire permanently which remedied the fault. | |
| Aug 16, 2016 at 15:01 | comment | added | Calaf | @SteveMatthews Could you clarify whether the connectors could be the culprit, and whether the copper wires leading to the O2 sensors are repairable? | |
| Aug 16, 2016 at 15:01 | comment | added | Calaf | @SteveMatthews Very logical suggestion. With home electronics I am used that the most likely cause for no contact is dust within a connector. There it is usually enough to pull/push the connector 5-10 times. The little dust particles present (preventing proper contact) abrade the copper. When some fresh metal is exposed, the connection is robust again, and the dust particles fall off in the process. Wires in something like headphones can all but not be repaired. They are made of supremely thin copper around polyester. | |
| Aug 16, 2016 at 14:39 | comment | added | Steve Matthews | Check the condition of the wiring loom to the oxygen sensors. I had similar behavior and traced it to a frayed wire which was sometimes disconnecting when the car was moving. | |
| Aug 16, 2016 at 14:15 | comment | added | Calaf | @SteveMatthews Good question. I expected maybe 30-40 miles until the code will return. It took all of 125 miles of driving on the highway (at about 70 mph) for the code to return. Does this provide a useful hint? | |
| Aug 16, 2016 at 14:11 | comment | added | Steve Matthews | Perhaps an obvious question but after you've cleared the CEL and fault codes with your scan tool, how quickly do they return? | |
| Aug 16, 2016 at 13:56 | history | asked | Calaf | CC BY-SA 3.0 |