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6

Modern engine preheaters are usually made of flexible heater mats, similar to those used in seat heaters. These are glued to the bottom of the oil pan. This heats the engine oil. This thins the oil allowing it to pump much more quickly which has two effects. 1) The crankshaft spins faster allowing faster start. 2) The oil reaches the bearings much faster....


6

Any bodge involving using gravity to feed the petrol to the engine isn't going to work - it's a multipoint electronic injection system running at much higher pressures then gravity would produce. You might succeed in doing more damage but that's about it. Also any mucking around with the fuel system is just going to give the garage a reason to renege on ...


5

Reality check #1: A tire at 70 psi would be bulging at the seams - you would be scared of the tire's appearance. Reality check #2: The sag on a tire at 20 psi is easy to notice. I believe what's happening here is that the B&D inflator is low on charge and/or in the wrong setting, causing erroneous readouts for tire pressure. This isn't far-fetched ...


5

It's quite a common 'feature' of cheap cars, don't worry about it. I have a Hyundai Getz that does this far more often. It happens when the teeth on the synchro ring for first don't line up properly or, if you're really unlucky, you have no synchro at all on first and the teeth on the gears are lined up wrong. Engaging 2nd or releasing the clutch will ...


5

You could have voltage at the socket with only one strand of copper connected so simply testing for voltage doesn't mean there isn't a fault. How to check for a bad Ground: Connect a load to the socket Set the multimeter to measure voltage Connect one lead to the Ground connection of the socket Connect the other lead to a known good ground If the meter ...


5

You won't be able to disconnect the fuel line and pour fuel into the fuel rail because this won't achieve the 60psi of fuel pressure that most non-direct injection fuel injected cars run at. You also have no way to switch off the fuel flow when switching to LPG and there is a chance that the LPG system may not switch in because it's electronics believe ...


5

Transmission fluid should always be changed per owners manual. If fluid is brown it definitely needs to be changed. Many myths have been created about not changing fluid. Most of these start because some people only change their fluid when a problem occurs. Then blame the problem on the fluid change. There is also the continuing debate about flushing the ...


4

A 1/2" drive breaker bar will give you way more leverage and mass than the box wrench in the photo (1/2" x 24" long breaker bar $21 @ Home Depot). Try different physical positions in which you can pull or push efficiently, using your body weight to advantage (be sure the car is secured on jack stands, with wheels chocked according to the owner's manual--you ...


4

You could perform a voltage drop test. If the voltage is reduced by the time it hits the phone, it might be high enough to trigger the charging indicator, but not actually be able to charge. Explanation of voltage drop test


3

I think the issue the OP has is that he has limited tools, and may be trying to turn things which have a little rust, and possibly were over-torqued during assembly. So it may be helpful to talk about ways to get fasteners loosened where the threads may be unwilling to smoothly turn apart. Stuck fasteners or guide pins, are often over torqued in the ...


3

The symptoms you describe would indicate that the electrical portion of your rear wiper system is working. It's likely there is an internal failure of a mechanical component of the wiper motor. Consider to check out various sources of this motor assembly. Ensure that you are getting the entire assembly, including the gearbox, as you have reason to believe (...


3

Easiest fix would probably be to buy a complete wiper assembly from a vehicle breakers yard (or Ebay) and swap your old one for the new. It should be simple enough for a noob to do. From your description, it is likely that the plastic gears inside have been stripped of teeth. Have you tried moving the arm while the motor is humming its tune? You may ...


3

"I am hoping I just mistreated my car, and put it from reverse to drive too soon." More than likely. Modern transmissions have safety features that don't allow you to actually engage into reverse without reaching a desired slowed speed. If you panicked and threw it into reverse without actually coming to a complete stop, the transmission would basically ...


3

Just because you are getting voltage does not mean you are getting current. You may have a frayed connection or corrosion somewhere between the car battery and the cigarette lighter that reduces the amount of current delivered to the cigarette lighter. Also check the fuse for the cigarette lighter port. Make sure it's good, properly seated and that there's ...


3

VSC stands for Vehicle Stability Control. It's the part which works in conjunction with the ABS to keep your vehicle stable during a bad braking situation. It also will help you in corners and such which might be a little too much for your vehicle. You decide whether it's important to you or not.


3

Lambda sensors have several different failure modes. Heater element. The heater element is a resistive material that resists electron flow thus producing heat. This is the most common cause of early failure. The resistor burns through opening the circuit. Failure of the catalyst material. Usually caused by contaminates coming from the engine. Very uncommon ...


3

Modern radial automotive tires often look saggy at proper inflation pressure, so I suspect you are over inflating the front tires to get them to look right. I also suggest getting a second gauge, but would caution that the pop-out stick type pictured above are notoriously inaccurate and would suggest a mechanical dial gauge as the best type to buy. With ...


2

Thanks everyone for reply! I gave this to one electrician and he told but that 4 of them are burned. And he wanted quite a lot for replacement only because he knows what kind there are. Also I found topic with the same problem and the guy replaced them and clock was working, only he got these transistors from same circuit board. This is the topic. ...


2

It's not a good idea to measure the pressure when they are cold because because they will change pressure (potentially a lot) when they warm up, especially if you live in a cold part of the world. And the warm pressure is what matters, because that's what they will be while you're actually driving. Measure the pressure after driving normally. For example ...


2

I'd pull the caliper off first, take those rubber plugs out and it's a 7mm hex to remove the guide pins. Get a big hammer and hit the wrench with the part that's just under the hammer head where the handle meets the head. It's unlikely it's seized, you can try removing the pads and heating the caliper bracket where the bolt screws in with a oxy/map or ...


2

To remove the light assembly you remove the two bolts in your first picture. That white plastic thing in your second picture holds a metal stud that's threaded into the light assembly. You need to carefully pry it out while sliding the assembly towards the rear of the car.


2

You should honestly post this on a statistics forum, try Cross Validated. The hubcap is dependent on both the rim size AND the position and number of the lug nuts.


2

This could be where the pad got stuck to the disc over time. You should check the discs - you may see a pad shaped mark where it was stuck. A light clean with very fine glasspaper will probably be sufficient. It may be that it is on the reverse side so you will need to jack up and support the car properly and get the wheel off to see.


2

I would advise against WD-40. I've never seen it suggested professionally. Graphite is always the preferred choice. Either in spray, or powdered. The WD-40 will leave a film which can gum up in the future, where Graphite doesn't have this issue. Cycle the lock/unlock lever inside the vehicle and/or use the lock/unlock button. The door handle isn't ...


2

Looking at the two options you suggested in turn: 1NRFE You're going to go screaming past that 50€ figure for ancillary changes I'm afraid - the 1NRFE will definitely need a new ECU, not only does it have the updated "Dual-VVTi" vs the 2SZ-FE's "single" but it also has stop-start (which is partly where the emissions improvements come from) so not only are ...


2

You safest option is to get the vehicle transported to the shop, they have the transporter / trailer to do this safely. You say you want to save 100€, but if this goes wrong you could spend so much more. Spend the money and keep yourself, and other road users, safe...


2

Yes you can gravity feed your fuel system - but you will need 45 meters of high pressure fuel line and a 15 story building to do it. Modern fuel injection systems require high pressure, most of the time between 40-60 psi. You can't supply this by holding a can of gasoline above your car. Here's some math: pressure in pascals = p (density of the fuel) * g (...


2

You've done the correct first check with a compression test which has shown that there is some problem. But there are multiple causes for low or uneven compression: Damaged piston ring and/or damaged cylinder wall Bent, burnt, or stuck valve Damaged piston Blown head gasket Cracked head or block There are likely other causes which are not coming to my ...


1

First, let me congratulate you on your desire to repair things on your own. Like most problems we try to solve this by dividing the problem: You need to figure out how to remove and reinstall the motor. You need to figure out how to repair the item. While I have no experiences with Toyotas and cannot judge your abilities, I suppose that task #1 should be ...


1

I got the bolts off my Fiesta, (those hopeless bolts with 'washers' built onto the hex head, so making a clean socket fit difficult), with a helical-grip 'removal' socket, a torque wrench, (just because it was long), and a length of pipe to extend the wrench. After a good soaking with Plusgas and a firing up with a blowlamp, the bolts screeched off.


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