Plastic or nylon housings like this usually contain one-half (either male or female) of a push-on spade connector. Here's a female one, with no wire:
The male connector part slides into the female part between the female's rolled-together edges.
On the back face of this metal connector, you'll see a small tab of metal, pushed down at the left so its end is ...
The fuse box is designed for all vehicles and positions only used as needed for each vehicle.
First check if those empty fuse slots have terminals in them, without terminals adding fuses does nothing.
Then check the legend to see if that item or function is fitted or valid for the vehicle.
Example : A fuse position can be provided for diesel heater plugs ...
Its probably not the fuseable link; more likely is that the starter motor needs to be shimmed. The starter motor has a small gear ( the pinion gear) which sticks out on a shaft to engage the flywheel. if the pinion gear doesn’t stick out far enough, it will spin but not turn the flywheel. The starter will test fine on the bench. Sometimes the pinion ...
D-GN Low Speed GMLAN Serial Data
2–3. Not Used
TN/BK High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (+) (1)
7–13. Not Used
TN High Speed GMLAN Serial Data (-) (1)
RD/WH Battery Positive Voltage
The most common problem with the Chevrolet with an airbag light on and the dealership that doesn’t want to tell you the codes is the clock spring is defective which is located in your steering wheel and activates your airbag. Sometimes they just crap out other times they are defective because of front end work and the wheel was spun one full rotation without ...
There are two connections because the current to drive the starter is high so it has a direct supply from the battery and the other connection is the control.
The connection through the ignition switch, park switch then solenoid is for two reasons:
To operate the starter when it is safe to do so ie not in gear
The starter needs a high current (in excess of ...
Your strategy should be to get the dealer to fix your bike. They should be able to test for a parasitic battery drain by putting a multimeter in-line between the battery feed and the terminal (that's a test you can do yourself as well). Small problems can develop into big problems over time, get it dealt with now while its still under warranty.
The smell you describe could be a sign of damage, or it could just be your power supply under a heavy load. The damage could be in the charging system, or the car. Your nose is a valuable tool for tracing that smell, as well as a visual inspection:
Male charger plug: If you're using a bench power supply you likely hooked up a car charger male plug to it, ...
Easiest way to do what your asking is use a digital multi-meter in continuity mode but first you want see which side of the fuse is connected to the supply so set your meter to DC and remove the fuse, turn your ignition on and check voltage at the fuse terminals. Which ever side of the terminals read 12V is your supply, next for simplicity, remove the SJB (...
Braided hoses expand less than all-rubber ones, because metal which surrounds the braided hose expands less than rubber.
When applied to brake hoses, this makes a difference in high performance driving where high brake pedal pressures are involved - due to reduced expansion of the lines, brake pedal feels more linear and consistent. This is especially ...
That's usually a break in the wiring harness to the MAF sensor. Pretty common actually. Disconnect electrical connector to MAF. Key in RUN position. Check for battery voltage on Pink wire. If you see that, flex the wiring harness to see if it stays. Check for good ground on black wire. Flex harness. If you find intermittent, fix the broken wire.
Looks like you car has a throttle pedal sensor.
My guess would be that you have a bad earth connection somewhere, so that the sensor is having to find its earth through the lighting circuit.
I would check the resistance of the ground connection at the throttle pedal as a start.
If it is the thin “wires” on the glass then I have had success in the past with silver conductive paint.
You have to find the breaks and clean them back to metal - I used a razor or scapel but be careful they are very very thin. Then mask each side and coat over the break. Follow the instructions for the paint.. remove the masking and test only when dry.
If I had been handed this "basket case". I'd simply get a (car/truck) manual that has the wiring diagram in it, and patch it back together. I'd also wager that a search for "year model wiring diagram" will turn up some possibly better diagrams that you'll find in the manual.
If the opening in the dash is sufficiently large, then it will be a straight swap, assuming that the wiring is "standard". Most ICE have adaptor harnesses available to match the ICE to a vehicle.
If the opening is not large enough then different parts will be needed, sourcing the may be easy or challenging.
Maybe an automatic control has a faulty sensor ? My 2011 Murano has auto wipers that turn on and off and adjust speed according to any rain : Such a system would cause your condition with a bad sensor. I expect it would need to be evaluated by the dealer.
In some manner, the 12v always-on power isn't always on.
Connect your voltmeter or test light to the always-on circuit, and leave it connected for the same length of time it takes for the head unit to lose memory. You'll probably find that he 12v always-on power goes away. Then you can search for the fault in the always-on power circuit, and rectify it.
This is DaytimeDriverForNow. I couldn't log back in, but I wanted to update everyone. The problem was as simple as Paulster2 suggested. I replaced all 4 bulbs and they are working great so far! Thanks for the help, I'm relieved it was more simple than I thought.
*I had a dull set of low beam headlights that I replaced a few months ago with something ...
Here is factory data:
Chamber left Function
1 30 Continuous plus
2 31 Ground
3 L Turn signal left (input, signal from car)
4 R Turn signal right (input, signal from car)
5 LZ Turn signal left to car (output)
6 RZ Turn signal right to car (Output)
7 LH turn signal left to ...
If you can't find silicone insulated wire, try nylon coated pvc insulation. it's very common at any electrical supply place. It's rated for higher temperatures and the nylon coating helps protect the pvc from degrading. A little more expensive than regular wire, but less expensive than silicone insulated wire.