9

Your understanding of how it's connected together makes sense, however, if you are rubbing a brake dust cover (backing plate) it doesn't mean the bearing is going bad. The first thing I'd be looking at is if there is any damage to the dust cover or if there is something stuck between the dust cover and the rotor. The reason you wouldn't look to the wheel ...


8

It might not be the tires so much as the alignment. If the bearing was worn but had "gotten settled" in a particular orientation, it might not have been noisy. Then you changed the alignment and started stressing it slightly differently, and now it's gotten loud. I wouldn't be too quick to blame the mechanic.


8

Sounds like your pads sticking to me. The pad should slide in smoothly ideally they should be so annoyingly smooth so that they fall out if your are not careful. I have had stuck pin and stuck piston before, both resulted in extreme pad wear on one side of the pad, or the back pad in the caliper. I have also had stuck pad, mild uneven wear, noise. In my ...


7

Both bearings show a wear strip - this is normal. The grease that is milky or grey has been contaminated and needs replacing. On my 4*4 I used to clean and repack the bearings then set the play very carefully. They lasted for years with no problems with exactly that middle strip wear pattern. Inspect carefully - any chips or cracks on the rollers means time ...


6

They look exactly the same. The threading is probably the same on both nuts. Use a hammer and flat head chisel to peen the new nut. These nuts aren't meant to be reused and as long as you're hammering into the groove it's fine


6

As @Moab stated, if it wasn't needed, it wouldn't be there. In most cases, the clip is there to maintain bearing position. Without it, the bearing walks and it drastically shortens the life of not only the bearing, but anything which the bearing comes into contact, mainly the CV joint. When the bearing walks, this puts pressure the CVJ every time you turn a ...


6

Likely a sticking caliper, if you're ok doing your own maintenance and comfortable with brakes.. Firstly just check your brake fluid level is ok and not too low (NO need to top it up!) we just don't want it to get too low during the next proceedure. If its at least half full that's fine for now. Pull one pad out from troublesome caliper and pump the brake a ...


5

Fist thing is to check that the bearings have been torqued properly, over tightening is easy to do and a common problem on newly replaced bearings. Also if one bearing goes it is sensible to replace the other side at the same time. It is also very easy to get grit in the bearing grease whcih can cause very early failure. Equally it could something ...


5

I've had this issue with cars fixed at my past shops. The old tires would mask the sound of the wheel bearing starting to go bad. New tires would suddenly make the sound stand out. Old tires can also affect the wheel bearing if their wear is uneven. They could put uneven pressure on the bearing as the tire rotates. Could the shop have done it? There is a ...


5

Pretty urgent. Less urgent than say, having no friction material left on your brakes but way more urgent than any regular servicing. Driving around with a dying bearing will hurt both economy and safety but mostly safety. If the wheel is not a driven one (e.g. if it's the front wheel and your car is rear wheel drive) it's possible for the hub (and wheel) to ...


5

It looks as though the boot has split and is spewing grease all over the place. If there isn't a lot of dirt let into the boot, you should be able to just replace the boot (yes, this is a chore, but a heck of a lot cheaper than replacing the half-shaft). When you replace the boot, you'll want to put some grease back into it to supplement what was lost. If ...


5

I've replaced bearings without either a puller or a press, it's perfectly doable, although a bearing insertion set does make things much easier. These are cheap and you can get them off the internet. Failing that you can do without. Bearing race removal: First you need a hammer, punch, gloves, safety glasses, a torch and a piece of scrap wood to go ...


4

The faster you travel wind noise will often shroud noises that the vehicle is making so don't think that the fault has gone away at that point. It depends really on how bad the bearing is with regards to what driving it's ok to continue with, really a failed bearing should be replaced ASAP. Some bearings will just hum along for months and months.. But that ...


4

My father had the exact same problem that you describe on his 2007 Honda CR-V and it turned out to be a drive shaft. Apparently they fail quite regularly on this model. Replacing the shaft resolved the issue.


4

To identify a worn bearing, raise your car, run it, and put a scope etc. on the hub. The weight of the front end will produce different noise, with the car in the air. Jack it up, Use a screwdriver, and have a friend spin the wheel, while you listen on the hub. If its bad you'll hear it.


4

As well as the items mentioned in @Orb and @Chris answers, it's also worth checking the flexi hose to the brake for any signs of swelling - sometimes the rubber can perish and swell, causing the hose to behave like a one-way valve - as you press the pedal, there's enough pressure to force the fluid through to apply the brake, but when you release, the fluid ...


3

Inner and outer bearing parts should stay together, as the wear patterns and small irregularities "match". If you mix them, then you risk premature failure - if you have a high use then you should replace them, also the time to replace may outweigh the initial cost of new ones now. If the use is low then you may get away with it.


3

This is a bit of a difficult question to answer over the internet because none of us can physically be there to observe the symptoms you're describing. However though, cars are just like any other man made functional device used on a daily basis. You could go in for an oil change and your piston rod bearing could fail. Is this the lube shop's fault? There is ...


3

This is a job for a slide hammer - fixed to the hub and will apply the force directly in the most useful direction.


3

It isn't integral with the rotors, but the bearings are integral with the hub itself. It comes as a unit, which attaches to the steering knuckle. The rotor is separate and attaches over the lugs (wheel studs) onto the hub. You cannot change out just the bearing itself from the hub, at least they really aren't made that way. This is very common on modern day ...


3

Not sure how either blacksmith or Mike came to their conclusions ... you cannot tell much about a bearing until the grease is removed. Grease will tell some of the tale, but it has to be cleaned for the bearing to give you the full story. Then you can look for discoloration in the bearing (blueing due to heat) and also run your fingernail across the roller ...


3

My guess would be that the assembly came apart for two reasons. The wear in the bearing caused some play between the inner race and the bearing shell. Some corrosion resulted in more resistance between the bearing mount and the knuckle than the bearing and the inner race. The result was the inner race wanted to come out easier than bearing mount. You did ...


3

None of the failed wheel bearings I have had affected the brakes . They caused a very low rumble that you felt more than heard. My first auto repair; driving home in my '41 Cadillac ( cost $ 95 from a Cadillac dealer- used) ,my father said that sound is a bad wheel bearing ; he was correct.


2

This is the part that lets the wheel go round. It is very urgent that you repair it. The bearing can seize and cause your car to swerve at whatever speed you are going and hit something/somebody. I would not use the car until it is fixed.


2

The 07 Altimas (the automatics) have a CVT that seems infamously noisy from cursory research. Is it like the noise you hear around 30 seconds into https://youtu.be/WblGvAPPGX4?t=30? It's tough to hear over him talking but you can hear it "winding down" in the background when he pulls his foot off the pedal. Apparently there are a lot of complaints ...


2

Bad bearings CAN produce heat, depending on the exact bearing failure it could under circumstances also produce very significant heat (in extreme cases they could get so hot that the grease is burning) but that is no effective indicator since fluctuations of pad brake pad pressure/effectiveness and other factors can also produce heat. Under circumstances a ...


2

While you'd want to believe the mechanic will catch/fix everything, it really is beyond their control. They may or may not have checked it when up on the lift, but really, if that had found it, you'd still be paying for the work, so it isn't like they are charging you extra if you take it back there and they fix it for you. You might be able to ask for a ...


2

The hub has to be removed so that the old stud can be pushed out and the new one pressed in, but the bearing does not need to be removed from the hub itself. Perhaps the mechanic was talking about the "hub bearing unit or "hub bearing assembly"... As for the ball joints being "cut"- I am not sure why the mechanic said "cut"- cracked is more relevant as the ...


2

I would use a "listening stick" - long screwdrivers work or a stethoscope... Both of which I have used with success, but identifying noise and isolating exactly which is responsible is an arcane art and mistakes are still possible...


2

Differentiating between wheel bearing noise and CV joint noise is difficult. Several times, I have replaced wheel bearings at the owner's direction, only to find later that the problem was the CV joint. With the wheel up, I would see if there is ANY play in the wheel horizontally or vertically. If not, my experience would say that it is more probable that ...


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