7
Soldering wires in a particularly old harness will actually reduce resistance in that portion of the wire. It won't be noticeable except for allowing for greater signal/line integrity. I.e. In a wire with failing spots (where conductor has been damaged or has broken) or exposed conductors, rejoining via soldering will restore the reliability of that ...
5
The symptom is explained by low pressure in the fuel rail.
If this was happening only during hot starts I would investigate the following, since in fuel-injected systems, hot-start problems indicate that the fuel line is unable to maintain pressure:
a leaky fuel injector
cracks in the fuel line which leak fuel when under pressure
a bad non-return valve in ...
5
It should not be an issue driving with one lug missing, as long as the other lug nuts are torqued as they are supposed to be. 4km is not a long distance, and especially one you shouldn't be worried about. It would behoove you to get it replaced as soon as possible to prevent further issues, though. As long as you aren't speeding or taking corners at high ...
5
You can perform a Leak Down Test to pinpoint what's going wrong. You'll obviously need a leakdown tester kit, you'll need an air compressor, and some hand tools.
Pull out spark plugs and either by hand or using a bar, rotate the
engine so that the first cylinder you're testing is at top dead
centre. You can put a screwdriver in the hole and watch it move up
...
5
3 places where oil gets into the combustion chamber
PCV system- you ruled this out
Piston rings- engine rebuild time
Valve stem seals- these can be replaced without cylinder head removal
Thicker oil will not solve the problem. There is no easy solution to 2 and 3
5
The stalling issues point toward problems with an engine control system (air, fuel, or spark), but again short of replacing the fuel pump, you have already replaced the parts most likely to cause those issues. The idea that the car will act normally on short trips is also strange.
The problem that stands out to me is that the car has trouble accelerating, ...
4
The black powder was charcoal from the evaporative fuel filter/canister. This filters evaporated fuel from your fuel tank. When your fuel tank gets warmer and the gasses expand above the fuel line they pass through this canister and are filtered out by the charcoal. When the temperature drops a reed valve opens due to the pressure change in other ...
3
It turned out to be a result of disconnecting the battery from the vehicle. When the battery is disconnected, the ECU forgets what it has self learned about when to switch gears, how much to open the throttle valve, etc.
After few days driving, when the ECU re-learned, the problem went away.
I had to disconnect the battery again recently, and the problem ...
3
Could the wiring harness problem have a relation to the acceleration problem?
Possibly, if it is an electronic transmission
Is it possible to check transmission fluid level in my car?
Not familiar with that model but some can only be checked if the vehicle is on a lift, manufacturers have started removing the usual transmission dip sticks and replacing ...
3
The symptoms are consistent with deposits in the throttle body. There are other potential causes. These deposits accrue in the intake manifold over time. They build faster with short trips and low quality fuels. Inspection and cleaning of the throttle body would be first thing to look at for this symptom. This engine is equipped with a computer controlled ...
2
The mechanic disassembled the gearbox and there was a minor damage in a piston which controls CVT pulleys. When the piston was replaced, the problem got resolved.
2
A word of caution: soldering creates a stiff section in an otherwise flexible wire. If the wire flexes, the soldered/un-soldered transition is a stress point, where the wire can break. This is one reason that crimping is (usually) preferred (eg). Which is not to say, never solder; just, think about the mechanical support/strain relief.
And, clean off ...
1
This is the same car that was sold as Toyota Yaris in Finland. I used to have a 2011 model of that car, with the same 1NR-FE engine. The tires were, if I recall correctly, 185/60R15.
According to this source: https://www.puretyre.co.uk/search-results-for-toyota-Yaris-06-11-185/60R15
...the 185/60R15 tires have a recommended pressure of 2.3 bar front and 2....
1
Basically the ECM expects X amount of volume to enter the intake at X RPM. MAF or no MAF. At idle if there's more volume than calibrated for, the AFR/O2 sensor will see a lean condition and the ECM adjusts fuel trim to compensate. Thusly code P0171 sets. It may or may not be the cause of your code, but it can and does happen.
The fact that fuel trim goes ...
1
If the throttle body, MAF/MAP was cleaned, or other fuel/emission components replaced, the throttle relearn needs to be done.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery (cover the post with
a cloth to avoid shorting).
Disconnect the positive cable from the battery (cover the post with
a cloth to avoid shorting).
Touch the positive and negative cables ...
1
Let's assume you have already checked for small vacuum leaks in the rubber tubing on the intake manifold and replaced the PCV valve (if applicable) . . .
I had the same problem on three different cars (two late-model Mercedes-Benz). The problem were due to dirty fuel injectors, spark plugs, intake valve stems, idle air control valve and flow ports, and ...
1
A compression test will show whether its the seals or the rings.
Make sure the engine is warm and perform a compression test (dry) and take a note of the readings. Then pour a couple of teaspoons of engine oil and pour it inside the chamber through spark plug hole and re do the test again. If the readings are higher, then the rings are bad as the oil will ...
1
Classic fuel pump issue. Replace it.
What's most likely to have happened is one or two of the little vanes in the pump has snapped off on a piece of rust/dirt. This makes that whine, particularly once the pump reaches full pressure and warms up a bit.
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