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Any vehicle worked on by a professional mechanic should be re-assembled properly
You have a real mess with the zip tie. Obviously that damage cannot be undone, you can't undrill a hole. It looks as if the panel that was broken is due to incorrect procedures used to remove them.
Interior panels can be difficult to remove if you do not follow the correct ...
20
If it is burning it's oil, the oil is getting somewhere it shouldn't do - and changing the plugs and coil will make no difference to that!
As the oil smoke is coming out of the exhaust, that suggests to me that the oil is getting into the cylinders - the most likely causes for this are a blown headgasket, failed valve stem seals, or failed piston rings. A ...
14
As I stated in my comments: They did the damage; they need to fix it (or pay for it to be fixed). This is worse than shoddy craftsmanship. Any reputable shop would not look like this. Their mechanic did this; they need to fix it.
Take it back to the shop and point all of this stuff out to the Service Manager. Tell them you are not happy with the outcome of ...
13
Sounds to me like the car is suffering from a boost leak - either the plumbing has a leak somewhere or the wastegate doesn't hold pressure properly. Does the car have a boost gauge and if it does, can you see if you're losing boost at the same time you get the noise?
Normally you'll have a hard time hearing the wastegate if it's an OEM one as they all ...
8
EDIT: I have heard that you do not need to remove the entire wing panelling. I certainly didn't on my 2003 Opel Agila. Just remove the screws from the front of the wing on the bottom of the car. Makes life easier. YOUR MILAGE MAY VARY ON THE CORSA!
This is what Vauxhall has to say about the front fog lights.
Firstly, we need to remove the inner paneling (...
8
I'd say the only realistic option with a 1.3 liter turbodiesel besides an engine swap is chiptuning/remapping. And even then I'd research the potential of this engine, you'll be shortening it's life considerably. Many performance oriented modifications will work, but in my opinion are simply not worth the investment with this engine, as the gains will be ...
answered May 16 '16 at 14:34
I have no idea what I'm doing
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7
Turns out the previous owner of the car adjusted the wastegate actuator in an attempt to increase boost pressure. The sudden loss of boost came about because the ECU forced the wastegate open in an attempt to keep the manifold attached to the engine ;) Kudos to whomever wrote the software for the Bosch Motronics unit.
6
An "unhappy" amount of movement in the pedal doesn't seem right, especially in a new car. If no one here can give you a definitive answer, and looking at the pedal mount and linkage under the dash isn't possible or doesn't tell you anything, I'd encourage you to go visit the dealer. They can inspect it and you can try some new cars and see if they have ...
6
Yes, the passenger seat belt warning chime and the passenger present systems are linked.
I can't speak about Opel directly, I'm familiar with Mazda and Honda. The way the passenger present systems works, is by using a weight sensor in the seat. The weight sensor senses below 20 kilos and above 40 kilos. If something is on the seat that is below 20 kilos ...
5
If you're not sure why you would need one then no, it would not be a good purchase. You would be much better off telling us what's happening with your car: we might be able to be of assistance given some information on specific symptoms.
The on-board diagnostic port will look something like this:
It serves as an interface port that the engine computer is ...
5
Engines are designed to withstand a certain amount of stress. When you exceed that threshold, longevity will start to deteriorate. I stated something to that effect in this answer. The engine has a redline where you shouldn't take its speed past. This redline is not the maximum speed which the engine can run, but more correctly the threshold which you ...
5
You can replace the firmware by entering developer mode and then going to the explorer mode in the developer options menu.
EDIT: I have also mirrored the file on my MEGA in case it disappears or is deleted.
From this forum thread
First off, I accept no responsibility if you brick your head unit you
are going too need to modify files stored on it to ...
5
Since it's a 1.2 I'm betting it's petrol, so you don't have some of the issues that diesels suffer from.
White smoke is often water. Grey/black smoke will be oil. Either way, something is getting into the combustion chambers which really shouldn't be there. My money is on the head gasket, because that can fail in a fairly on/off kind of way, but as other ...
5
Unfortunately, there isn't a whole lot you can do with a 1.3CDTi - as the others have said, make sure it's in the best condition you can, but you're not going to get the 'kick' you desire.
I'm assuming you're fairly young, and in the UK (as you link to a UK site for the specs) - you'll almost certainly find that any modification will cause your insurance to ...
5
Essentially you have put 10 milliliters of oil in your gastank
I have done this before with more oil than that on accident into my truck.
My solution was to fill the tank to the top and dilute it as much as possible. This worked fine for me and I had no ill effects that I am aware of. The truck passed emissions after that and I have had no maintenance ...
5
Because stop / tail lights are so important, manufacturers will occasionally split the circuit so that they have a fuse for each side of the car. That way, if the fuse blows, you don't loose all lightning so I wouldn't simply assume that it isn't the fuse.
With a bit of research, it points to fuse 7 being responsible for the right hand side tail light and ...
5
The LCD panel is failing internally and will need replacing with another one. There is no way to repair the panel itself.
4
Why was it redone? And was your block checked for warping? If it was warped, and not corrected, you could be facing the same problem.
4
I just did this last weekend. It is an easy job!
The consensus on must of the Vauxhall/Opel forums is not to try and poke anything into the hole, you'll just ram the blockage further inside the nozzle.
Here are the steps...
Unclip the "strings" which hold the parcelshelf in place
Unscrew the plastic ball joints which those string were clipped to
Unclip the ...
4
Who is affected?
If your car has had any previous work on the heating system, I would STRONGLY advise that you take it to a local dealership. Non-genuine parts may have been used, which could overheat and catch fire.
If you car meets all of these criteria, then you are definitely affected.
Zafira B (all model variants)
If your car design is not ...
4
I would suggest investing in a Haynes Manual for this car. One minor repair like this that you can do yourself will pay for it in savings.
This is the part you are looking for, it's the thermostat housing, that I found on eBay. If I recall, it was for the 2011.
Here is a video on how to change it a thermostat for a Vauxhall Corsa 1.3 (2004). Now it may ...
4
A grinding noise when the clutch is disengaged/engine running is usually the "throw-out bearing" or just "clutch bearing". It might also indicate insufficient clearance between the clutch and the clutchplate, which could become very costly.
4
The car will be fine, that's just the noise the starter motor/solenoid makes when the battery is flat.
The solenoid switches on the motor and engages the motor's gear with the flywheel, allowing it to turn the engine. There is a strong spring which pushes the solenoid back to its resting position after use. When the battery is very low it can't supply ...
4
A flashing check engine light means you have an active misfire. Driving your car while misfiring for an extended period of time can cause damage to your catalytic converter, so try not do do that.
Studdering/juddering or however you want to describe it is also a definite sign of a misfire. Suspecting the coil(s) or wires is good, and that should be your ...
4
The first step is figuring out where the wiggle is coming from. Stick your head or a camera under the dash and check the pedal assembly. If you don't have an Olympic gymnast-like ability to contort your body under the dash, a good trick with these new-age smart phones is to stick your camera under there, record a video with the flashlight, and wiggle the ...
4
I don't know that particular car well, but maybe a vacuum leak? Perhaps it's at the intake manifold, and worsening as the parts warm up, expand, and mating surfaces change shape?
3
Do you have a Haynes manual or similar for the car? They usually describe how to remove the various bits of trim...
Before trying to remove the trim, have you tried cleaning the nozzle out with the tip of a needle or a fine bit of wire?
The bottom photo shows the trim to be in four parts - the window surround (two parts), the lower panel and the lock ...
3
Yes, a reset could work, if the problem is that the ECU is used to the previous driver's driving style and his style was vastly different to your's. But it could also just be the way you drive. Do you drive more like Morgan Freeman or Vin Diesel? These cars are quite heavy on the juice in city driving. With mine, I get about 7.5l/100km on the highway going ...
3
The Astra H has a concentric clutch slave cylinder which means the gearbox has to be removed to replace it, 5 to 6 hour job. Try holding the clutch pedal down on the floor, engine idling - car in first - handbrake firmly on. Just keep it held down for a while and wait. If the slave is faulty, after a little time the clutch will try to take up the drive and ...
3
Sounds very much like a worn blower motor so you at least have to get at the motor to find out what is worn. While you're that deep in the car you might as well replace it with a new one.
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