Explore another method. The sealant may work, but it's only a stop gap measure. You're right it needs to be airtight. Any leaks will cause it not to run (it will suck air instead of fuel).
I've got three suggestions for you:
Use very small (thin) zip ties to seal the line against the barb.
Heat the line up (via flame) which will effectively shrink the ...
As is said here 2-Stroke Squish & Compression Testing
The Best Way to get a Valid Compression Reading
A) Within 5 days of a normal “operating cycle - Engines that have sat for a long time may have excess oil that has leaked in from somewhere. The added ring sealing offered by this excessive oil presence can greatly increase the normal valid ...
Reading the online operation manual for that model product, I found the following:
Starting a warm engine
Pull the choke/fast idle lever out to the full extent, then push the
lever back in completely (to the OFF Choke position)
Slowly press primer bulb 6 times.
Pull the starter rope quickly with your right hand until the
Squeeze and release ...
For a 2-stroke engine, the least amount of back pressure inside the exhaust the better. If you look at performance chainsaws (yah, it's a real thing), you'll see an exhaust system which has a broad section in the middle of the pipe, then goes back to a smaller size. This broad area allows for the gasses to speed up as its cooling down, thus creating a draw ...