Episode #125 of the Stack Overflow podcast is here. We talk Tilde Club and mechanical keyboards. Listen now
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Yes, it is an accurate statement. The first troubleshooting step I do when diagnosing any issue which is in response to trouble codes is to clear the code and see if it comes back. If it doesn't come back, the issue was a "fleeting" issue, meaning to me as not something to really worry about. Along those lines, considering your truck is relatively new, the ...


4

Its probably not the fuseable link; more likely is that the starter motor needs to be shimmed. The starter motor has a small gear ( the pinion gear) which sticks out on a shaft to engage the flywheel. if the pinion gear doesn’t stick out far enough, it will spin but not turn the flywheel. The starter will test fine on the bench. Sometimes the pinion ...


3

Something loose in gearbox that has allowed two pairs of gears to engage at the same time locking the box. Or something jamming the output shaft. Separate the output shaft from the gearbox and see if the rear wheel rotates, if still not, then it is something shaft or wheel related. Trailer it home or to a garage and inspect it properly.


2

I suspect one of two things: Ignition timing, possibly a failed crank or camshaft position sensor. The "sudden" failure of the previous owner suggests this. There are two terminals in the diagnostic connector (OBD II) that you can short to establish base timing. You might try that and see if it makes a difference. Also, are there any engine codes? ...


2

First I would establish actuator movement. The failure of the actuator to move properly is the leading cause of VW turbo failures. With a vacuum pump, such as a Mighty-Vac, or the Harbor Freight clone, draw 30" of vacuum. You can access the line for the turbo on top at the solenoid on the firewall. 30" should sustain for more than 10 seconds to a vacuum ...


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There are three possibilities: 1) a defective bulb, each bulb has two filaments so while the high may be fine the low may have failed 2) there is a blown fuse for the RH low beam - some cars have individual fuses left and right 3) the wiring to that bulb is damaged...


2

No. A compression test is used to measure the sealing in the cylinder, both through the valves and the rings. You cannot confer anything through a compression test as to the adjustment of the valves, because it doesn't relate to that. You may get compression readings which are less than they should be if the adjustment is too tight (a tight adjustment might ...


2

I found my hydraulic reservoir for 2000 southwind fleetwood behind passenger tire (behind mudflap). It's tight and crammy and I had to sit straight up with little to no space to work with. Absolutely one of the worst things I would like to avoid doing again but let's face it...It's inevitable lol.


1

The most probable reason for the engine not to start after a coolant loss is a compression loss due to overheating. High temperature causes a (usually) aluminium cylinder head to bend and lose a good airtight contact with an engine block. I'd start with a compression check, it won't cost you much.


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Because the motor fires and runs briefly using starting fluid, the starting and ignition systems can be presumed to be OK. The truck's problem is fuel flow. You've shown there's fuel at the fuel filter, but you need to go farther and check beyond the fuel filter. Somewhere between the fuel filter and the cylinders themselves fuel isn't flowing. I don't ...


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disaster waiting to happen That is correct. I recommend that you replace the hose, both clamps and top up the coolant as soon as possible.


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If you took your car in and asked for the water leak to be repaired, then that is what they will do. They cannot fix every issue on the car "just because it is there" because you will refuse to pay for work done that was not asked for. They cannot guess which issues you want fixed unless you point out all that you want done. Sadly, getting it fixed for ...


1

I have the exact same car (make and model and year) and I just went thru this drill. I'm hoping in your case the clutch air gap was just too big. You set that via small washer spacers beneath the clutch plate as its installed. Spec = 0.35—0.65 mm {0.014—0.025 in} Air gap reference is here. In my case the A/C clutch magnetic coil was burned out. The ...


1

IF the gauge is in the red when this happens, it's no the clutch. The high pressure switch is preventing the compressor from engaging. Fix the high pressure problem first.


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Not sure which engine you have, but all are carb as far as I can tell. Most have either a mechanical (vaccuum) or electronic altitude/idle speed throttle compensation system. It stands to reason that this system would compensate for the drop in idle speed due to disabling one cylinder.


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Each headlight bulb has two filaments, one for dipped and another for full beam. You can see through the glass of the bulb to check if these have blown. If the plastic is too cloudy to see from the outside you will have to remove the bulb.


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Mine did this. After checking everything basic and replacing things/bleeding air out .. it ended up being the water pump. It wasnt out but was old and not pushing enough water through at idle causing pressure to build up at idle.


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Do you have a "house" battery, that is a second battery that powers the RV parts of the vehicle, other than the engine battery? If so, this sounds like your Isolator is bad. The isolator allows the alternator to charge the "house" battery, while preventing your "house" components from draining your starting battery. When the isolator is bad, many odd ...


1

I've had this exact problem on my 2001 325i a few times and I learned from a friend what it is. When you run that engine for just a few seconds it doesn't actually get the cylinder or cylinder walls warm, combined with an engine running rich (since it's cold) you get lots of non-vaporized gas in the cylinder. Then when you try to start later it is flooded. ...


1

The diameter is unlikely to be the cause of any of the issues unless it was hitting body work, which you would likely notice. The width however could be a problem, if the wheels are too narrow for the larger tires the extra flexing of the sidewalls could cause the air loss and failures. This is hard to say for sure though without knowing the wheel ...


1

The difference in tire size would not be causing either the leaking, the one tire to need patched, or the blow-outs. The different than stock tire size is just a different tire size. Nothing can be inferred from this other than possibly having a speedometer slightly off during vehicle operation. I think the bigger question here is why do tires keep blowing? ...


1

Disconnecting the battery is a good idea, specially if you have an alarm on it, to avoid it being discharged. Besides that I'd leave the gas tank full (or close to full) so the water condensation inside the tank is minimal. Also, check the bike's manual to see the engine oil expiration (mine is 4000km[1] or 6 months, whichever comes first) so you know if ...


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So - Easy Start didn't make a difference, but the injectors are very awkwardly hidden below the manifold so I couldn't check the fuel supply to the rail. I left it idle for a week (with the battery diconnected) and out of pure chance tried to start it 5 or 6 times today, each time it was getting a bit further to starting. Eventually it kicked into life and ...


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Easy answer is that he has got water on the ignition circuit - I would get WD-40 and liberally spray around the ignition leads/coils. Worse case is he has got water in the air inlet - remove spark plugs and turn over if this is the case. Use some easy start initially to see if there is a spark.


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You are either leaking it or burning it. Some leaks may occur at a hose, radiator, or the heater core. The heater core leaking may cause your carpet inside the car to be wet. If your radiator cap has failed, it will cause the overflow bottle to overflow, loosing coolant. If you have a blown head gasket, cracked head, or cracked block, coolant can ...


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Time to get out the test light or multimeter and follow the wires. I'd start with the ground side. Pull the connections off the battery, clean the up really good. Follow the ground cable and make sure the side the goes to the body and / or block are good and clean. Test that you get 12v between an unpainted metal part of the block / frame / body and the ...


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