18

Since you lost power to your 12v accessory socket at the same time as the other systems, I can’t see this as being an computer malfunction. This sounds to me like you have a fault in your main fuse box which is taking out a number of circuits. There may be a bad connection of one of the main fusible links. Unbolting them and cleaning may fix it. You may ...


10

You may have a loose or corroded engine ground connection. The next time you have the electrical failure, leave the ignition switch ON and, using a voltmeter, measure voltage between the negative post on the battery and any shiny clean metal part that is bolted to the engine block. This should always read zero volts, or nearly zero. If it reads something ...


4

A typical brake assembly has a single or double piston on one side, when the brake pedal is depressed the piston pushes the pad into the rotor, and pushes the assembly, including the caliper, in the opposite direction. The caliper slides on pins, allowing even force to be applied on both sides of the rotor. It sounds like the caliper seized, keeping the ...


4

Yes, it is an accurate statement. The first troubleshooting step I do when diagnosing any issue which is in response to trouble codes is to clear the code and see if it comes back. If it doesn't come back, the issue was a "fleeting" issue, meaning to me as not something to really worry about. Along those lines, considering your truck is relatively new, the ...


4

Its probably not the fuseable link; more likely is that the starter motor needs to be shimmed. The starter motor has a small gear ( the pinion gear) which sticks out on a shaft to engage the flywheel. if the pinion gear doesn’t stick out far enough, it will spin but not turn the flywheel. The starter will test fine on the bench. Sometimes the pinion ...


3

10A at 12V is only 120 Watts. Not much at all and that sounds entirely normal to me just running a few lights and some other electronic devices. Most auto batteries are in the 50 - 100 Ah capacity range which means that a typical one should be able to supply your 10A load for 5 to 10 hours. I think you will find that your battery has reached the end of ...


3

Welcome to the site, and thanks for putting in a good amount of details. The fact that you have replaced the battery and your seat motors still work when you have the issue eliminates a bad battery or main battery connection. The symptoms sound a lot like a computer issue to me because the computers control the dash lights, ignition, either the computer isn'...


2

This sounds like you have a power leak somewhere draining the battery as it sits overnight. This could be a simple as a map light being left on or a trunk light or something similar staying on due to a faulty switch. The other cause of a power leak would be a short in a wire or component that isn't bad enough to blow its fuse but enough to drain the ...


2

I suspect one of two things: Ignition timing, possibly a failed crank or camshaft position sensor. The "sudden" failure of the previous owner suggests this. There are two terminals in the diagnostic connector (OBD II) that you can short to establish base timing. You might try that and see if it makes a difference. Also, are there any engine codes? ...


1

Not sure which engine you have, but all are carb as far as I can tell. Most have either a mechanical (vaccuum) or electronic altitude/idle speed throttle compensation system. It stands to reason that this system would compensate for the drop in idle speed due to disabling one cylinder.


1

Problem solved! (by my wife). It turns out (a fruitless trip to the repair shop [the battery and alternator are fine] followed by a further episode of non-starting) that the issue was that I had 2 keys: an original and a copy. Both mechanically turn the ignition lock, but with the copy the ignition fires and then dies after a few attempts after which it ...


1

Go to a car spares store. They'll spec the correct bulbs for your vehicle, and they'll also install them for you if it's a quiet day (and they'll know not to touch the bulbs, which would otherwise cause them to blow in short order). If the problem is a fuse or anything else simple, they'll be able to quickly tell you. And they don't charge for this service..


1

Well, check the fuse box and test the fuses - fuses can fracture so that current won't flow but they still "look" good... Also check the bulbs from both headlights, a multimeter is good for this but putting them across a battery with a wire to finish the circuit also works (be careful not to cause a spark as that can ignite any gas...)...


1

I had a similar problem with a '77 Chevy Impala station wagon. It drove me crazy. I finally managed to isolate it to the primary cable from the battery to the starter solenoid. After replacing the primary cable, I removed the battery post clamp from the old cable, and found myself staring at a handful of wire fragments. The outer layer of cable wires had ...


1

I had a similar problem with my car late last year. The car will go totally off and few minutes later turn-on the dashboard again. After few days of struggle and investigation asking battery guys and electricians for help, I discovered that the cables to the battery terminal were loose. The problem totally went away after tightening them. Hope this helps...


1

I have no idea of where in the car to look for it but this sort of behavior sounds thermal to me. Something delivers power when it's cool but goes open circuit when it's hot. A couple of thoughts on this, I don't know how practical given the situation: 1) When it's failing look over the circuit with a multimeter. I would connect the leads together ...


1

Mine did this. After checking everything basic and replacing things/bleeding air out .. it ended up being the water pump. It wasnt out but was old and not pushing enough water through at idle causing pressure to build up at idle.


1

Ihave a2019 2500 Laramie it was doing the same thing I turned on the recirculating cab air button on and boom I’m cooking now


1

I have an LS2 that makes a sound similar to that sound but it was an upper valve tap so i put some Seafoam in the oil before the oil change and now the sound is gone. It also could be the exhaust manifold bolts are broken causing a noise that sounds like an upper valve tap. Speaking form experience it's probably the manifold bolts are broken. Good luck ...


1

I've had this exact problem on my 2001 325i a few times and I learned from a friend what it is. When you run that engine for just a few seconds it doesn't actually get the cylinder or cylinder walls warm, combined with an engine running rich (since it's cold) you get lots of non-vaporized gas in the cylinder. Then when you try to start later it is flooded. ...


1

The most probable reason for the engine not to start after a coolant loss is a compression loss due to overheating. High temperature causes a (usually) aluminium cylinder head to bend and lose a good airtight contact with an engine block. I'd start with a compression check, it won't cost you much.


1

Because the motor fires and runs briefly using starting fluid, the starting and ignition systems can be presumed to be OK. The truck's problem is fuel flow. You've shown there's fuel at the fuel filter, but you need to go farther and check beyond the fuel filter. Somewhere between the fuel filter and the cylinders themselves fuel isn't flowing. I don't ...


1

disaster waiting to happen That is correct. I recommend that you replace the hose, both clamps and top up the coolant as soon as possible.


1

If you took your car in and asked for the water leak to be repaired, then that is what they will do. They cannot fix every issue on the car "just because it is there" because you will refuse to pay for work done that was not asked for. They cannot guess which issues you want fixed unless you point out all that you want done. Sadly, getting it fixed for ...


1

I have the exact same car (make and model and year) and I just went thru this drill. I'm hoping in your case the clutch air gap was just too big. You set that via small washer spacers beneath the clutch plate as its installed. Spec = 0.35—0.65 mm {0.014—0.025 in} Air gap reference is here. In my case the A/C clutch magnetic coil was burned out. The ...


1

IF the gauge is in the red when this happens, it's no the clutch. The high pressure switch is preventing the compressor from engaging. Fix the high pressure problem first.


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