18

Since you lost power to your 12v accessory socket at the same time as the other systems, I can’t see this as being an computer malfunction. This sounds to me like you have a fault in your main fuse box which is taking out a number of circuits. There may be a bad connection of one of the main fusible links. Unbolting them and cleaning may fix it. You may ...


10

You may have a loose or corroded engine ground connection. The next time you have the electrical failure, leave the ignition switch ON and, using a voltmeter, measure voltage between the negative post on the battery and any shiny clean metal part that is bolted to the engine block. This should always read zero volts, or nearly zero. If it reads something ...


4

Its probably not the fuseable link; more likely is that the starter motor needs to be shimmed. The starter motor has a small gear ( the pinion gear) which sticks out on a shaft to engage the flywheel. if the pinion gear doesn’t stick out far enough, it will spin but not turn the flywheel. The starter will test fine on the bench. Sometimes the pinion ...


4

Yes, it is an accurate statement. The first troubleshooting step I do when diagnosing any issue which is in response to trouble codes is to clear the code and see if it comes back. If it doesn't come back, the issue was a "fleeting" issue, meaning to me as not something to really worry about. Along those lines, considering your truck is relatively new, the ...


3

Welcome to the site, and thanks for putting in a good amount of details. The fact that you have replaced the battery and your seat motors still work when you have the issue eliminates a bad battery or main battery connection. The symptoms sound a lot like a computer issue to me because the computers control the dash lights, ignition, either the computer isn'...


2

I suspect one of two things: Ignition timing, possibly a failed crank or camshaft position sensor. The "sudden" failure of the previous owner suggests this. There are two terminals in the diagnostic connector (OBD II) that you can short to establish base timing. You might try that and see if it makes a difference. Also, are there any engine codes? ...


2

This sounds like you have a power leak somewhere draining the battery as it sits overnight. This could be a simple as a map light being left on or a trunk light or something similar staying on due to a faulty switch. The other cause of a power leak would be a short in a wire or component that isn't bad enough to blow its fuse but enough to drain the ...


2

I found my hydraulic reservoir for 2000 southwind fleetwood behind passenger tire (behind mudflap). It's tight and crammy and I had to sit straight up with little to no space to work with. Absolutely one of the worst things I would like to avoid doing again but let's face it...It's inevitable lol.


1

I had a similar problem with a '77 Chevy Impala station wagon. It drove me crazy. I finally managed to isolate it to the primary cable from the battery to the starter solenoid. After replacing the primary cable, I removed the battery post clamp from the old cable, and found myself staring at a handful of wire fragments. The outer layer of cable wires had ...


1

I had a similar problem with my car late last year. The car will go totally off and few minutes later turn-on the dashboard again. After few days of struggle and investigation asking battery guys and electricians for help, I discovered that the cables to the battery terminal were loose. The problem totally went away after tightening them. Hope this helps...


1

I have no idea of where in the car to look for it but this sort of behavior sounds thermal to me. Something delivers power when it's cool but goes open circuit when it's hot. A couple of thoughts on this, I don't know how practical given the situation: 1) When it's failing look over the circuit with a multimeter. I would connect the leads together ...


1

Not sure which engine you have, but all are carb as far as I can tell. Most have either a mechanical (vaccuum) or electronic altitude/idle speed throttle compensation system. It stands to reason that this system would compensate for the drop in idle speed due to disabling one cylinder.


1

The most probable reason for the engine not to start after a coolant loss is a compression loss due to overheating. High temperature causes a (usually) aluminium cylinder head to bend and lose a good airtight contact with an engine block. I'd start with a compression check, it won't cost you much.


1

Because the motor fires and runs briefly using starting fluid, the starting and ignition systems can be presumed to be OK. The truck's problem is fuel flow. You've shown there's fuel at the fuel filter, but you need to go farther and check beyond the fuel filter. Somewhere between the fuel filter and the cylinders themselves fuel isn't flowing. I don't ...


1

disaster waiting to happen That is correct. I recommend that you replace the hose, both clamps and top up the coolant as soon as possible.


1

If you took your car in and asked for the water leak to be repaired, then that is what they will do. They cannot fix every issue on the car "just because it is there" because you will refuse to pay for work done that was not asked for. They cannot guess which issues you want fixed unless you point out all that you want done. Sadly, getting it fixed for ...


1

I have the exact same car (make and model and year) and I just went thru this drill. I'm hoping in your case the clutch air gap was just too big. You set that via small washer spacers beneath the clutch plate as its installed. Spec = 0.35—0.65 mm {0.014—0.025 in} Air gap reference is here. In my case the A/C clutch magnetic coil was burned out. The ...


1

IF the gauge is in the red when this happens, it's no the clutch. The high pressure switch is preventing the compressor from engaging. Fix the high pressure problem first.


1

The diameter is unlikely to be the cause of any of the issues unless it was hitting body work, which you would likely notice. The width however could be a problem, if the wheels are too narrow for the larger tires the extra flexing of the sidewalls could cause the air loss and failures. This is hard to say for sure though without knowing the wheel ...


1

The difference in tire size would not be causing either the leaking, the one tire to need patched, or the blow-outs. The different than stock tire size is just a different tire size. Nothing can be inferred from this other than possibly having a speedometer slightly off during vehicle operation. I think the bigger question here is why do tires keep blowing? ...


1

Disconnecting the battery is a good idea, specially if you have an alarm on it, to avoid it being discharged. Besides that I'd leave the gas tank full (or close to full) so the water condensation inside the tank is minimal. Also, check the bike's manual to see the engine oil expiration (mine is 4000km[1] or 6 months, whichever comes first) so you know if ...


1

So - Easy Start didn't make a difference, but the injectors are very awkwardly hidden below the manifold so I couldn't check the fuel supply to the rail. I left it idle for a week (with the battery diconnected) and out of pure chance tried to start it 5 or 6 times today, each time it was getting a bit further to starting. Eventually it kicked into life and ...


1

Easy answer is that he has got water on the ignition circuit - I would get WD-40 and liberally spray around the ignition leads/coils. Worse case is he has got water in the air inlet - remove spark plugs and turn over if this is the case. Use some easy start initially to see if there is a spark.


1

You are either leaking it or burning it. Some leaks may occur at a hose, radiator, or the heater core. The heater core leaking may cause your carpet inside the car to be wet. If your radiator cap has failed, it will cause the overflow bottle to overflow, loosing coolant. If you have a blown head gasket, cracked head, or cracked block, coolant can ...


1

Mine did this. After checking everything basic and replacing things/bleeding air out .. it ended up being the water pump. It wasnt out but was old and not pushing enough water through at idle causing pressure to build up at idle.


1

I have an LS2 that makes a sound similar to that sound but it was an upper valve tap so i put some Seafoam in the oil before the oil change and now the sound is gone. It also could be the exhaust manifold bolts are broken causing a noise that sounds like an upper valve tap. Speaking form experience it's probably the manifold bolts are broken. Good luck ...


1

Do you have a "house" battery, that is a second battery that powers the RV parts of the vehicle, other than the engine battery? If so, this sounds like your Isolator is bad. The isolator allows the alternator to charge the "house" battery, while preventing your "house" components from draining your starting battery. When the isolator is bad, many odd ...


1

I've had this exact problem on my 2001 325i a few times and I learned from a friend what it is. When you run that engine for just a few seconds it doesn't actually get the cylinder or cylinder walls warm, combined with an engine running rich (since it's cold) you get lots of non-vaporized gas in the cylinder. Then when you try to start later it is flooded. ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible