3

The "classic" warning light was connected between battery positive and the alternator output. This would then exhibit various states of illumination, which with experience, would tell one what was wrong without having to do all the tests stated in the workshop manual. So, if the light was on solid bright then the alternator was not charging and ...


2

Follow up on the solution for this - we took the car in and apparently when we swapped out the battery (the old one read less than 12v on the multimeter) the car went into "security mode?" Once the computer was reset everything works normally.


2

This a similar setup to a pilot bushing fitting in to a crankshaft. The tried and true method of backyard mechanics involves grease and a wooden dowel. Find a wooden dowel slightly larger than the inside diameter of the bushing. Sand the dowel so it fits snuggly in to the bushing. Pack the bushing full of grease. Insert the dowel and tap it with a hammer. ...


2

New contributor, welcome. And yes, this stuff can be frustrating. How many miles on the car's odometer? Was this a salvage title, Florida or Gulf Coast flood car? Did you personally check the cars Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) repair/title history? In repairing cars (or solving any problem) you can solve things in a combination of three factors. ...


1

Not sure if you resolved the issue, but most likely it is cv joint. You can get under car hold both inner and outer axle and shake them. If you hear any clicking/clacking sounds and feel movement your joint is bad. Other way to test is to turn the wheel all the way to left/right( do it for both directions to check both cv joints (left and right) ) and drive ...


1

Sometimes a flexible brake hose can develop an internal tear that acts like a one-way valve. This stops one of the calipers from releasing quickly or at all. Repeated brake application slowly buids up the caliper pressure and causes brake drag. If the blockage is not complete, then the caliper pressure will slowly release. If it drags while you are driving, ...


1

First thing I would check when you are experiencing any of these symptoms is the battery voltage. Check it at the battery terminals and at other places, for example the cigarette lighter socket. If the voltage is below 13v with the engine running, you may have a bad connection between the battery and the fuse box or between the battery and the body. A ...


1

I've seen several EJ253's of this generation suffer failed catalytic converters where the catalytic substrate has physically broken up in the exhaust meaning the car cannot breathe properly with no DTC's. A car we worked on could barely make it up a local hill but after replacing the cat it was no problem. Also I guess you've checked the battery voltage is ...


1

Your battery got fully charged up to 12.8V and according to your comments it kept that charge for a day before you put it back into the vehicle to try and start it. This means that your battery didn't have a bad cell. This would lead me to believe that it could be the alternator. However, after one start your battery's voltage dropped significantly and then ...


1

yes it comes out pretty easily....lever it....push down from the Thuele label when you have it on a table and it pops right out


1

Sounds like one or both of your front shocks have worn out. Replace them in pairs! Both fronts, both rears, you get the idea.


1

The ground that is connected to your fuse box, inside the truck isn't keeping it's connection. Check there🙂


1

The upper heater hose has a T and there is a restrictor in it. Its plastic. Drill it out to 1/4" and that should help get rid of the air lock in the heater core.


1

Your windshield was not cleaned properly before applying the Rain-X Original. Your wipers are perfectly fine, there’s lingering dirt and grime on your windshield, it’s hardly ever the wipers unless they’re torn. The RainX in the tall spray bottle is crap, you want the RainX in the little 3.5oz cardboard box. It’s just better somehow. Now You need to deep ...


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