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IMO, that's a lot of money for a 28 year old car - but 4runners do keep their value well. Things to do, given that you've never purchased a car before; Make sure it has a clean title. You don't want a rebuilt/salvage title on the car - that means something has happened which was serious enough that an insurance company paid out on the car. If it has a ...


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I've had this before when by fuel tank breather was blocked. A car which would start and run fine but after half an hour at motorway speeds, it would die. The roadside fix was the remove the fuel filler cap. Doing this with your ear close to the filler and you'd hear a "whoosh" as air rushed back in to neutralise the vacuum in the fuel tank. There is a ...


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I would start with the master cylinder. On older or high mileage vehicles the master cylinder bore will develop wear. The wear only occurs in the area of the normal piston stroke. In the process of bleeding the brakes you pushed the seals past what had been the normal stroke. It likely ruined the seals and you are either sucking air in when the pedal returns ...


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The tensioner for the power steering was loose and wobbly. Tightened it up and the noise went away.


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The same happened to me. Turned out to be a bad alternator. My alternator was generating 19v. Abs module is a complex system including a motor. When it sense overvolts, it shuts it down itself tl prevent further damage.


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Your heater is a big plastic box that has a blower that takes in air, blows it through the AC evaporator, then either through or past the heater matrix, and out through a series of outlets to the various vents. Decades ago, the flaps, or "doors' that open and close the various outlets were operated by rods or cables connected directly to the levers on the ...


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I have also a faulty front washer yaris 2013... But better check first before you buy a replacement..mine stop woking because of rusty connectors because water leakage.. I try clean it with wd40... brushed it then test it now its working.. I believe pump motor is sealed so 95% its still good


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Without looking at any of schematics, it would seem to me you've hooked the power wrong to it, or rather, you may have hooked up the wrong kind of power. I'm assuming it would need some kind of power attached to it in order to work. If you've attached that power lead from an ignition sourced power lead (one which is only on when the ignition is on), it won't ...


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It could be a coolant temp sensor issue - but I wouldn't rule out the possibility there's a real issue with the cooling system. Coolant operates under pressure so a temp of 105°C doesn't necessarily translate to boiling coolant, in fact depending upon the coolant type and mix you're running I'd expect a boiling point of over 120°C The readings you're ...


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