Hot answers tagged

9

The left descending pipe is (or comes from) the exhaust manifold, and ends in a two-bolt flange. The flange bolts to a matching flange on the front end of the exhaust pipe, which runs aft from the flanged connection towards the rear of the car, undoubtedly through a muffler (or two). Gaskets in such high-heat environments are often made of metal; this one ...


9

It is not likely the quality of the gasoline causing the change. The sensors are unable to evaluate the chemical makeup of the fuel. It could be a change in your driving habits, changes in temperature, the vehicle health, tire pressure, etc. I would not be too concerned. The dash indicator is an estimate only. The computer monitors how you drive, current ...


7

First have someone check to see if your brake lights work. If they don't check fuse 28 in the underdash fuse panel. If fuse 28 is OK locate the stoplight switch on the brake pedal. Key on engine off, use a paper clip and jump the 2 terminals. If you can shift out of park and the brake lights come on replace the stoplight switch. If the brake lights come ...


6

So, do power steering hoses just leak randomly like they are claiming? Or is there a reason to be suspicious? I will bet the problem lies with the nylon seal which needs to be replaced with the pump (it's a real PITB to install) and they didn't do it with the pump install. It's the seal which allows movement out of the high pressure side (out flow of fluid)....


5

If the question you are asking is "could this have failed in the last six weeks?" then the answer is "Yes", it sounds like that is exactly what happened. There is a train of thought that both calipers have done the exact same amount of service and if one was replaced it would be logical that the other would need replacement soon. Replacing calipers are a ...


4

If the oil is at the correct level now driving the car should be fine. Take it easy on the engine until it stops smoking. The smoke is likely coming from the residue of the excessive oil from the overfill and will burn off over the next little while.


4

Sounds like a problem with the immobilizer - when starting the car it will "read" the presence of a chip in the key and if for whatever reason it isn't able to detect that chip the immobilizer will prevent the vehicle from starting (which is why even the wired in starter button won't start it) This could be a problem with either the car or with the key you ...


3

The ABS control module isn't really difficult to replace and sounds like it's within your skill level. Remove the old one and disconnect everything, put the new one in, reconnect everything and bolt it back into place. It may be in an awkward place to access though. As far as safety, 2 things: it won't disable the entire braking system, just the anti-...


3

You have to pull (really hard) on this grey lever. It comes out about 3 inches vertically and unlocks the connector:


3

If things are really this tight and you really can't do both, replace the tie rods first. It is better to lose a wheel completely (via broken ball joint) than to have a tie rod break and steer the car sharply. Either way, limit your driving to essential driving only, and if your financial situation does not improve, consider parking or selling the car.


3

"miles remaining" is an guesstimate based on your recent driving The system has stores a great deal of data about your past driving performance, and the "miles to E" is assuming you will continue driving like you recently have. If your driving changes, the estimate is invalid. Imagine you deliver vegetables for an artisanal farmer in upstate NY. ...


2

Wanted to post as comment, but I do not have enough rep. Sounds like power steering failure. I had a belt that snapped on my '92-98 Corolla and had to drive through two seasons without power steering. At a still, and on reverse speeds, the steering was pretty hard to turn, however as soon as the car moved forward, turning the wheel was a breeze. High RPMs ...


2

This could be one of several things: Swaybar links broken or missing Worn out strut/shock mount (on either end) Worn out suspension parts ... anywhere the suspension has a bushing which meets the car itself Without being there in person, it's hard to tell beyond that what it might be. I mean, it could also be a loose spare in the trunk area.


2

Here's what you should be doing: Place your vehicle on a level area like a driveway. Ensure your vehicle is up to operating temperature and running. Pull the dipstick and with a clean cloth, wipe it off. Stick the dipstick back into the tube down to the bottom, then pull it out again immediately and check the level. Add an appropriate amount of fluid (half ...


2

OBD1 326 indicates that the EGR pressure sensor is reading pressure values that are out of the range deemed to be normal. Along with the results of your pre/post-cat temperature test, this is strong evidence that the catalytic converter is clogged. The solution would be to replace the catalytic converter.


2

Head gasket is the only likely culprit here. It is possible that the shop did something they shouldn't have when replacing the water pump that could have damaged the head. I've seen head bolts loosened inadvertently due to negligence. This is not an indictment of your mechanic, it could be pure coincidence or some odd issue with the water pump adding more ...


2

IMO you'd be better getting them all done together, then once done the alignment can be done. If you really must have everything done separately, perhaps explain your predicament to the garage, just so that your not charged for an alignment check after each component replacement.


2

It is definitely okay to reset the message, which is what the folks at Walmart should have done. The light / message on your dash is nothing more than a timer and distance counter. It sounds like the folks at Walmart did not reset it when they did your oil change. It's easy to do, but the method changes from model to model, so a quick Google search should ...


2

You're correct on the first picture, second picture looks like a coolant temperature sensor. You could re-pin the connector in the second picture or replace it (most auto parts stores will carry connectors). If you're feeling adventurous unplug the connector and using a small screwdriver push out the pins. They'll have little locking tabs on them. Then you ...


2

Aight, so I replaced my battery connectors this after noon along with the old battery, and she started right up. Thanks for the help


2

It certainly looks like a weld ( first picture). Stainless does not corrode ( significantly ) in an exhaust system. I suggest some kind of grinding to remove the fasteners. Most modern exhaust pipe is ferritic ( magnetic) stainless , not very hard because of very low carbon . But, the fasteners and weld filler metal may be something else , even austenitic ( ...


2

You say you did a radiator pressure test, but you should test the whole system by pressurizing that. The system should hold pressure for several hours. Have seen this type of problem before where one of the hoses has a small pin hole in it and it only leaks when the system is fully hot. The coolant escapes as steam and leaves no trace around the hole - ...


1

The reason I asked you what kind of noise the car was making and when it's making it, is because depending on when it makes the noise, you might have gotten by with leaving the A/C compressor in place and just not energizing it. From you description and follow-up comment, it would seem to me your compressor clutch and/or the compressor itself is bad (making ...


1

Considering you are getting a CEL for an O2 sensor and your estimated fuel mileage is down, would it make sense the O2 sensor(s) might be the problem? If the front O2 sensor(s) is bad, this is exactly what I'd expect to be happening. Before you assume there's an issue with something else, I'd suggest you consider putting new O2 sensors in it and reset the ...


1

From your description (as light as it is), the symptoms lead me to believe you either have an open hatch somewhere, or one of the switches which detects open hatches is malfunctioning. In this instance, an open hatch could be the hood, trunk, or doors. The behavior you are describing with the lights flashing and the fob only working to unlock is what leads ...


1

Put a multimeter on the leads running to the starter solenoid, and see if it's getting power when you have the key turned to "start". If it does, you need a new starter. If it doesn't, you have an problem between the ignition and the starter. BTW - the "previously intermittent start problem" is a classic "starter solenoid going bad" symptom.


1

Running a power steering pump without fluid will damage the pump quickly, then eventually the power rack and pinion unit.


1

Don't cut corners. If the car is unsafe, stop driving it. Your safety is the most important priority. When you've got the money to do all the work, have it done by a reputable shop. Any ball joint or tie rod replacement, makes an alignment necessary. Note: Ask the shop to use ball joints/tie rod ends with grease fittings on them, if they are available for ...


1

Got a call back from my friend, they replaced the alternator and confirmed a good idle on the road test. Charging voltage is back in the 14+v range and the idle jump is gone.


1

This can also be due to a faulty pressure switch in the high pressure line. Failure to detect the pressure by the ecm,from the high pressure sensor, the pressure in the system wont be regulated. Then will have pressure beyond the normal operating pressure.


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