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3

I would make darn sure there is no coolant in the transmission. I would suggest a complete drain including the torque converter, and then using the fluid (OEM compatible) of your choice. However, to answer your question, if the fluid is compatible, it's compatible. Only a complete teardown of the transmission would remove every last little bit (there's a ...


2

A bike of that age probably has some engine wear and no doubt has exhaust soot and oily gunk in the pipes. The cross over is a great place for gunge to rest. Its normally the lowest point on the bike. The lazy option would be to repair the join so it doesnt leak. New flange gasket, rubber ring seal, clamp etc. A bit hard to say without seeing it. The ...


2

check for a pinched fuel line below the tank, be ready to replace the power control module. i've seen many gsxr burn out the pcm when tuning or wrenching. i have yet to understand why they crap out so easily. (people stop because this is a observation not from my tinkering with the unknown.) good luck bro.


2

As you've spotted, you have factory fitted mounting points on the car. There's a number of different versions of these (I'm not familiar with Suzukis to know which they have), but most suppliers of roof bars will supply most versions. Usually roof bars are sold in three parts - the bars themselves, the feet, and the fitting kit - the latter is the bit that'...


1

. Can my bike start up and act like it's been with an ECU that looks like this? Yes. Its very possible and likely the ecu, the wiring going into the harness or the harness molding between the terminals that is bad from the looks of it and the symptoms you mention. It looks like the heat that damaged the case (maybe more) was from outside, so I would get ...


1

Bending terminals is a possibility - did that often in the past but it is dodgy with the cheap ones, they can fracture then break easily. Those terminals are probably used because the access is so poor that it may be almost impossible to do up the bolts on the standard battery terminals when it is in place... I would look at extending the wires, but then ...


1

The choice of replacing or rebuilding parts is based on several factors: Cost: you can often save money refurbishing a part Tools: whether you have the tools and space to do the job. You may need specialist tools like pullers to do it correctly. If you don't have the tools you have to rent or buy them, which can make the cost greater than replacing the part ...


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The wording you have posted there suggests there is not a distributor. Instead, the IC calculates timings and triggers the ignition coil. If the bike needs full choke even when warm, it's worth looking at your MAP sensor and throttle position sensor to see if they are faulty. The various motorcycle forum posts on this also suggest looking at CKP, CMP, ...


1

The component at fault is the alternator. When it's charging, it's creating too much drag which is shredding the drive belt. You could check things like the bushing and bearings but to be fair, I'd just fit a replacement item. That is of course assuming that the correct sized belt has been fitted and is correctly tensioned.


1

That "black goo" is from the failed hub or bearing seal. It needs replacing and most likely the bearing as well. This should be done asap, as it will breakdown.


1

i have ben running 100LL in my 1972 xl250 for about 2yrs now. Starts on first kick and runs extremely well. It wont harm your motorcycle. I also add marvel mystery oil to gas to add more lubrication to the top end. I live couple of miles from my local airport so its very convenient.


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