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3

I would make darn sure there is no coolant in the transmission. I would suggest a complete drain including the torque converter, and then using the fluid (OEM compatible) of your choice. However, to answer your question, if the fluid is compatible, it's compatible. Only a complete teardown of the transmission would remove every last little bit (there's a ...


3

There should be a petcock valve in the lower middle of that radiator. Here's a picture; it's the white gizmo at the bottom. Take the radiator cap off before opening the petcock to allow complete draining. Zerex Asian and Mak SuperKool are a few brands that have compatible coolant that you should be able to find locally. Or you can get the genuine OEM ...


2

It may be that your thermostat isn't closing or isn't closing fully. The thermostat is designed to include the radiator in the path that circulating coolant follows only when it reaches a specified temperature. This will typically be around 88 degrees Celsius and most vehicles are designed to operate at an optimum temperature (typically around 90 degrees ...


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A bike of that age probably has some engine wear and no doubt has exhaust soot and oily gunk in the pipes. The cross over is a great place for gunge to rest. Its normally the lowest point on the bike. The lazy option would be to repair the join so it doesnt leak. New flange gasket, rubber ring seal, clamp etc. A bit hard to say without seeing it. The ...


2

check for a pinched fuel line below the tank, be ready to replace the power control module. i've seen many gsxr burn out the pcm when tuning or wrenching. i have yet to understand why they crap out so easily. (people stop because this is a observation not from my tinkering with the unknown.) good luck bro.


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I like to keeps things simple, start with the air intake - a Diesel is an air pump, loves air more than fuel, keep that in mind when looking things over. Diesels hate water in their fuel. I have found if the E.G.R is all coked up, things don't run right, it acts like the Diesel is suffocating, can´t breathe properly. Easy to clean if you can get to it. Be ...


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Bending terminals is a possibility - did that often in the past but it is dodgy with the cheap ones, they can fracture then break easily. Those terminals are probably used because the access is so poor that it may be almost impossible to do up the bolts on the standard battery terminals when it is in place... I would look at extending the wires, but then ...


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The choice of replacing or rebuilding parts is based on several factors: Cost: you can often save money refurbishing a part Tools: whether you have the tools and space to do the job. You may need specialist tools like pullers to do it correctly. If you don't have the tools you have to rent or buy them, which can make the cost greater than replacing the part ...


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The wording you have posted there suggests there is not a distributor. Instead, the IC calculates timings and triggers the ignition coil. If the bike needs full choke even when warm, it's worth looking at your MAP sensor and throttle position sensor to see if they are faulty. The various motorcycle forum posts on this also suggest looking at CKP, CMP, ...


1

The component at fault is the alternator. When it's charging, it's creating too much drag which is shredding the drive belt. You could check things like the bushing and bearings but to be fair, I'd just fit a replacement item. That is of course assuming that the correct sized belt has been fitted and is correctly tensioned.


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That "black goo" is from the failed hub or bearing seal. It needs replacing and most likely the bearing as well. This should be done asap, as it will breakdown.


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Where to find the coolant drain cap/bolt, and how to drain it. As others have stated, there should be a drain off of the bottom part of the radiator. It should look like a fitting which really doesn't do anything (twist knob on it). It may have a drain tube pointing down. If you cannot find it, disconnect the bottom radiator hose and let it drain. This ...


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very good chance at the bottom left of rad, if not just pull off the bottom hose doesn't really matter but if you want by the books google it... Depends on the product you choose and operating temperature Does it overheat? if yes you did it wrong if no you didn't. This is a very simple job, a drain pan and screwdriver is all you need Why are you topping ...


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Older Subaru models could be put into 2WD by removing (or adding; I forget) a jumper fuse in the fuse box. I doubt that is still true in 2013. In any case, I would not suggest you disable AWD in a Subaru by removing a mechanical shaft. I honestly do not think your fuel economy and acceleration will be much improved. Most of the torque is directed to the ...


1

If you change the ride height, then you change the handling characteristics... You have to decide what you want and accept the consequences of the change. For example people lower suspension for looks and handling, but suffer a harsher ride... Without exact detail of shock settings and spring rates etc a general answer is all I can offer and I don't have ...


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When the engine is off the torque converter is "empty" ( no connection between the engine and transmission) so and any gear in the auto transmission is essentially neutral , except park. Park will have some mechanical lock on the output shaft.


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