Motorcycle Speed Wobble Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting speed wobbles can entail looking at quite a bit. Here are some bullet points on components you need to check on your bike for integrity and proper assembly.
Rear Wheel Alignment
Adjust your chain properly and ensure the real wheel is in alignment with your front. Common Issue, the wheels aren't ...
I believe your clutch safety switch has been damaged
You have a switch underneath your clutch lever.
It forces you to pull the clutch in to start the bike.
There is a small phillips head #2 screw that holds in place. It can be adjusted and slid back and forth to engage properly with the clutch lever. You can see where the switch hits the lever if you ...
I've had great success in the past selecting a 12 sided socket that almost just say fits over the head of these types of bolts. Hammer it on so it's fully covering the head and sitting squarely then attach a ratchet and turn it out. This method has never once failed me. You do have to select an old socket however.
This shouldn't be too crazy. You will probably need a multimeter to test things. (If you watch the specials carefully, there is at least one tool outlet that gives these away as special coupon deals
I would start the journey with the service manual. It's available here.
Check out section #6, electrical. Your system is pretty simple.
A couple of ...
I'm sure others can provide their own viewpoints, but here are my guidelines:
Define your objective(s)
Know what you want to learn or master as it will set the tone for what learning areas to focus on, as well as what resources you need.
Examples could include:
general maintenance (plugs, filters, fluids swap)
Your 4x4 system uses air/vacuum power to engage the 4x4 system. The flashing 4x4 light indicates a leak has been detected in the system. Depending on the severity of the leak, the 4x4 system might not be fully functional and wheels may intermittently slip, or not lock at all.
There is a pump located behind the front bumper that maintains pressure in the ...
In terms of rebuilding the shock, there are similarities between models but there are unique differences between them that make it impossible to review all of the nuance. I'll only give a high level response to the rebuilding component.
I can't figure out the low/high speed or the rebound/compression dampening.
I would use my mig welder to weld a steel rod onto the head. You could weld a T shape on the end of the rod for something to hold. After removing each one, just cut the bolt off the end and repeat. The heat usually helps to free the bolt too. Make sure you protect anything nearby that could be damaged by sparks.
Some bikes "fall into turns" more than others. While some of this behavior might be expected, you seem to be experiencing this in a significant fashion.
If the issue occurs equally in both left and right turns, then it is likely caused by an underinflated front tire. If the issue occurs on one side only, or more severely on one side than the other, then it ...
You can run that fuel. I've run a 100 hours of aviation fuel through plus another 200 hours of race fuel that tends to destroy FI fuel pumps in various years of RM. I have a friend that is currently campaigning one in a vintage class race series. It's a 1978 RM250. It's fine. Two years since the last rebuilt.
But you don't have a fuel pump so you don't ...
I would say yes to both of your questions. If you have some ATF (Dexron or whatever) sitting around, squirt a "bit" into each cylinder through the spark plug hole before you do this. You don't want to drop a whole bunch in there, but enough to wet the rings (a couple of squirts from an oil can or the like should be sufficient). This will create a small ...
If you have stored a vehicle for an extended period of time and did not prepare it for storage properly by draining the fuel it seems you should consider doing the following things.
Drain all gas from the entire fuel system
Replace fuel filter in the gas tank and if you have one in your fuel line you should change that too
Try and charge your battery, if it'...
There are a few possibilities, especially with the smaller Suzuki shift drums such as yours as well as the innate way in which constant mesh transmissions work.
The detente at the end of the pawl lifter on the cam driven gear that the shifting shaft acts upon could be getting stuck as it's old and worn out. The pin costs $2.95 and is worth replacing. As ...
Assuming you connected the positive terminals and negative terminals together on the jump, there shouldn't have been any harm done to the bike's electrical system or battery.
Take the battery to an auto parts store and have them test it. If the battery fails their test, replace the battery.
Next, check the main fuse, usually on the same cable as the ...
For a start your starter motor is the cylindrical thing to the right of #9 in this picture
I'd check it has a good connection to ground (is the resistance between the - negative terminal of battery to the outer steel of the starter lots less than 1?)
Whip the seat off and check the starter relay and see if theres any corrosion and it's nice and tight. It's ...
Take the hard rubber pieces out of the sprocket assembly and put them in the hub. Note that they can only be installed one way. It does not matter if you install them in different locations in the hub.
There should be something in your manual about greasing the parts that run around the axle, usually with NLGI 2.
Then install the sprocket assembly and ...
I've had this on a few bikes and it can happen for a few reasons. If it it's only happened a couple of times i wouldn't be too worried.
I've had a 'false neutral' when changing gears and instead of engaging the next gear the gears don't quite engage and you end up between them. Older bikes with higher mileage might be more prone to this. To avoid it make ...
You have 4 things to check to start figuring your issue out.
Check your TPS
Check hot wire of the fuel pump with a multimeter
Pulling Suzuki Fuel System Codes or Entering Dealer Mode on a post-2001 Suzuki Motorcycle
You can put your bike into what is called 'dealer mode' to get data and information regarding what might be the issue ...
Everybody will have a different answer to this question, depending on
the money-value of the vehicle
the sentimental-value of the vehicle
how much longer are you planning to keep it
when the time comes to get rid of it, are you planning to sell it or
write it off
how much damage is there on the door
Basically, your options are:
new door Probably in the $...
Yes, shims are reusable. Since they are between two pieces of metal and suffer no fatigue or wear, as long as they look good and measure out good (are concentric), there should be no issue using them. Even the measurement on them is sort of arbitrary, because it's the end result you're looking for. In many cases you can shift your shims around to get the ...
My experience (in multiple cars, albeit not your make/model) has been that this sound always means your cooling system is under-filled. If you've emptied your cooling system and refilled it, it can be really hard to get all the air pockets out of the heater core, especially since in many vehicles it's almost as high as the radiator cap and at the opposite ...
It is unlikely that simply removing and re installing the wheel would cause air to enter the brake system, though I suppose if someone had repeatedly squeezed the brake lever while the wheel was off the bike, that could have run the master cylinder reservoir dry and admitted air. One should never apply the brakes unless brake pads and brake rotor are all ...
Off the top of my head I would look at the following:
The clutch start switch - a broken wire or switch will prevent you from starting the bike. It disables the starter relay by grounding it out unless you pull in the clutch. It's located on the handlebar and is integrated into the clutch lever landing.
Side Stand Switch - See if the ...
It's almost a bit normal
Your brake pads aren't lined up on the wear grooves of your disc.
What is very common on dirtbikes is to get a few grooves, not necessarily deep, cut into the discs/rotors. When you put the wheel back onto the bike the pads on your front caliper were just a little bit off.
There really isn't any tool or special alignment you ...
All engines retain a small amount of residual oil even if you let the sump drain for awhile. If you do not change the oil filter then it will also be storing some oil in it. For diesel engines, particularly, it is advisable to change the oil filter each time you change the oil. Don’t be surprised if you change the lubricating oil in your diesel, run the ...
The phenomenon is called as hitting "False Neutral" while shifting.
Basically when the clutch is not able to engage the selected gear properly the drive shaft stays in the mode of stasis . i.e simulating the effect of the bike being in neutral. The only difference between a regular neutral and this one is that you don't see the neutral light on the dash.
You can use this method to pull certain types of dents.
Here is one method to resolve the dent issue.
glue these plastic ding tabs to the center of the dent. You can find them by googling "plastic ding tab"
You will use a hot glue gun and hot glue them to your dent.
Use a dent puller slide hammer. The tip should screw into the ...
My buddy recommends using Irwin Easy Outs.
these to remove from inside the hex
these to remove from the outside
Impact drivers are always recommended.
If that doesn't do it, vise grips could, but could also cause more damage.
Also getting some penetrating lube on them will help if you haven't already.
Cut a small slot in one edge of the periphery (muffler abrasive whizzer tool), and hammer a chisel in that slot to move the socket head capscrew in the loosening (CCW) direction. You needed to replace it anyway...
Also, you CANNOT use too much PB blaster, Kroil, or whatever your favorite liquid penetrating oil is. Rap the head lightly with a hammer a few ...
Heat is the key to loosen the bolts off - I use a butane torch, if you have access to oxy torch, they can be carefully used too. Keep it local to the bolt as it can affect the rotor magnets which may or may not be an issue for you if you are replacing the actual rotor). Then for the knackered bolt heads, find a sacrificial Torx bit or the right size to jam ...