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5

It looks like you can tell by the vin. It appears to be asking engine code - that's the eighth digit. See if it matches the R or T shown in the part description there, and that should give you your answer.


3

In response to your questions: Could the battery replacement be the only reason for P1684? Assuming you mean the sole reason, as in cause the code by itself, yes it could. Anything that results in power loss to one of the controllers could set the code, disconnecting the battery is one possibility, but there are others such as a blown fuse of a failing ...


3

Your experience w/ the drive home sounds like the ECU entered 'limp-home' mode. You may have shorted out some sensor or other electronics that is keeping it from operating correctly now. Sometimes that can clear up when the parts dry off, and other times it means parts need to be replaced. Since your air filter was dry-- and your engine still runs-- it ...


2

Before you go thinking the belt is out of time, when your mechanic told you about the wires, what he may have been suggesting is that you have the wires on the wrong plugs. This will create the imbalance you are talking about, yet most of the time will not show a trouble code (because they are all still firing, just not at the right time). Double check to ...


2

The P0507 code refers to: A P0507 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following: A vacuum leak Leaking air intake after the throttle body EGR valve leaking vacuum A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body Failed EVAP system Failed IAC (idle air controller) or faulty IAC circuit Things to look ...


2

It is definitely not good for an automatic tranny to be pulled in neutral, but it doesn't mean it's automatically fried. The reason it's not good for the transmission is, the pump which distributes the tranny fluid is just behind the torque converter (in most automatic transmissions) which is attached to the engine. When the engine isn't running, there is ...


2

I would check the brake pedal cancel switch, it may be an integral part of the brake switch but has its own electrical contacts. If it is stuck in the open position this will cause cruise to not engage. You can check this with an ohm meter, pins 3 and 4 (first diagram) should have continuity with the brake pedal at rest, lose continuity when you depress the ...


2

Basically, the battery is supplying electricity to the car, but it's not getting to the starter motor. When you turn the key and there's not even a click, my first thought is a bad starter relay, but it could also be a loose wire, or a bad ignition switch. It should be pretty easy to check, have someone turn the key while you touch the relay. If there's ...


1

Generally speaking - the Alternator and Tensioner Pulley should not have any relation to the cooling system, unless somehow the water pump is belt driven and the mechanic put the belts on incorrectly, but I don't think this is the case. Is there a rubber hose you can carefully reach with your hand going from the radiator to the engine / coolant housing? Is ...


1

A few thoughts (in no particular order): It sounds like one or more cylinders are not firing You'll want to isolate the problematic cylinder(s). Assuming the car has run for a bit since the timing belt swap, you could try to inspect the spark plugs to see if any of them is wet or looks different from the rest. This should give you focus in on the problem ...


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