24
You are right in the thinking of using less gas and that's exactly what the purpose was to have the start/stop feature. The main goal of doing it (at least here in the States) is for zero fuel consumption/zero emissions while the engine is stopped. This provides for better overall fuel consumption numbers to meet what the EPA has mandated for companies to ...
20
The oil problem
You can run any engine speed you want as long as you keep the oil pressure up.
Because of the impossibility of getting a roller bearing down a crankshaft, engine bearings are "plain bearings" with polished steel floating above babbitt (a soft metal). The oil pressure makes the bearings "float", so the dynamic forces of pistons being ...
8
The engine needs a minimum rpm to idle smoothly - a v8 can idle smoothly about 500to 600rpm but a 1 litre 3 cylinder needs around 700 to 900rpm...
It is not the companies that really decided to do the start/stop, if you do some research the various governments have implemented legislation over the years that required drivers to turn off the engine when ...
5
From physical point of view, lowering the RPM means that you need to store the energy required to keep the engine running (and overcome friction) with a smaller angular speed. And the kinetic energy is proportional to speed squared.
If you want to go from 600 RPM to 100 RPM, you will have (among other things) to make the flywheel 36 times heavier. Of course,...
4
Since this car is a diesel, there are only 3 things required to make it run - fuel, air, and compression. As the problem is intermittent, it's probably not the compression (though that should be checked anyway). That leaves fuel and air, which must mix at a certain ratio to detonate in the cylinders.
So, you either have a fuel system problem causing you to ...
4
so we finally resolved this issue and it was a combination of a defective third-party keypad immobilizer and cracked solder joints on the PGM fi fuel pump relay.
at first I couldn't see the cracks in the solder joints on the relay but we noticed that if we tapped the casing of the relay while the engine was running the engine would die then upon closer ...
4
Actually you could BUT... Motorcycles have WET multiple disc clutches in contrast with cars that usually have a single dry plate clutch engagement.
The friction and mainly the drag produced by these multiple discs is often very hard to overcome by kick starter, especially when the engine is cold.
You can simulate this by trying to push your bike in gear ...
4
Car companies focus on stop/start of the engine simply because
There's a minimum RPM the engine can run at. You can sort of extend it using dual inlet/exhaust variable valve timing, but there are limits to that.
If the engine is running, it's consuming some amount of fuel always.
Also, some companies go bit further than stop/start. They stop the engine ...
3
According to this article, it may not be that the battery is drained, per se, but rather that it has lost quite a bit of its capacity.
The article states a battery will lose:
35% reduction @ 32°F
60% reduction @ 0°F
Plus, it takes a large increase of amperage to turn the engine at the lower temperatures. This is the double whammy. Just when you need more ...
3
Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! I have a 1985 MK1 Golf Cabriolet running a Pierburg 2e2 which I've had a number of issues with so hopefully I can help.
This car runs a mechanical fuel pump so if the engine is turning over, the fuel pump ought to be drawing fuel. The fact that it ran on carb cleaner suggests to me that it isn't getting ...
3
The problem is between your battery posts and wherever you attach your jumper cables. Bad, loose, or dirty, oxidized connection.
3
Even though my old battery appeared to take a charge from a borrowed trickle-charger, I took it to Autozone and they confirmed it was bad: 11.83 volts, only 2% charged. With a new battery installed, she started right up. I was shocked!
If someone would like to summarize the answers/suggestions in the comments above and post them here, I'll mark your answer ...
2
Hybrid Newbie here. I got a CT200h and faced this problem yesterday (jumpstarting a dead IC car with my working hybrid).
After being somewhat overwhelmed with the dire consequences to all the futuristic computers aboard, I played it safe and solved it Old School.
I simply removed the tiny 12 volt auxiliary battery from the CT200. This tiny battery is ...
2
How are you starting the car? Do you wait till the glow plug light goes off before cranking?
I found that in my TDI, especially in winter, I had to cycle the glow plugs a few times and then it started no problems
2
The same can be done with a bike, whether electric or kick start. Except with a kick start bike even with the clutch in, you get a lot of clutch drag transferred through the kickstarter as the clutches are often wet, so they're sat in gear oil making it a lot harder to kick over.
2
The 13 is irrelevant here! Watch the voltage when you crank over-it will drop
This figure should not be less than around 10v -if it is, then the battery has no amp power to start the car and is defective, even if new
2
It ended up being the battery!
Got it replaced.
2
I doubt "intake" air is the problem - diesels will run on very wide air/fuel ratios.
Perhaps there was air getting into the fuel system, which can cause improper injection and failure to provide fuel to the cylinders.
Also, the health of the glowplugs should be checked.
I'd start with a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. Observe while [attempting] ...
2
As @SolarMike says, there's quite a few questions on similar subjects here - see the long-term-storage tag and the linked question
There's only one thing I'd add to the answers in the linked question, and that is to consider the environment you're storing it in - Florida is known for a warm, damp climate, which is ideal conditions for mould and mildew to ...
2
Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions for how to get my golf to run. I took a second look at the Pierburg, removed all the jets and measured the fuel flow and float angle. I found that the one of the pull down units wasn't creating a vacuum and replaced that - Unfortunately it nothing solved my immediate problem.
So I turned my attention back to ...
2
Aight, so I replaced my battery connectors this after noon along with the old battery, and she started right up.
Thanks for the help
2
Honda had a pretty big problem with their relays. Once the interior of the vehicle heated up, the small circuit board in the relay would expand and the tracings on the board would open enough to cause a no start. Leave the car and let it cool and it would contract and get contact again. Fix is to solder a jumper wire or just replace with an updated relay.
2
Assuming you've double checked all fuses for continuity, and you're confident that no pins or wires were harmed over the course of your blinker diagnosis, we'll start simple and go from there.
You said your dash lights are functioning at the key-on position, which is a good sign. Do you also hear the Fuel Pump priming? if not, do you see a red or yellow '...
1
Had problem like this before, it turned out to be the coil, once it got hot it separated an internal contact.
I fitted a new coil and it was fine. If you can get a known good spare that would be a good test.
1
One of the few things affected at fuel fill is tank pressure and the vapor recovery system.
My guess is you are adversely affecting the carbon cannister vapor recovery system during fuel fill.
First i want to verify you are NOT doing a fuel fill to the tippy top. This is really a BAD thing to do. When you are filling up the tank and the pump clicks off ...
1
When you stop your engine fuel should stay in the system all the way up to the carburetor. It may evaporate from the carb but the line should not be dry, which is what is happening to you. This can have a few causes:
A bad check valve: a check, or non-return, valve prevents fuel from flowing back into your fuel tank. If this stops working fuel will run back ...
1
Welcome to the site! Sounds like a flat battery to me - especially given you say it's not turning over at all.
The oil pressure light is a red herring in this instance I think -they typically illuminate as part of the start up process, you just normally don't register it as it it will go out when the car starts. Don't add any more oil at this stage.
1
If you have not changed your oil in "a while", I would recommend changing the oil. This does 2 things:
It means that when you start using the car again next Nov/Dec, you know exactly how long you have before your next oil change.
Even more importantly, small amounts of water can build up in the oil. Normally, this water evaporates and is sucked out of the ...
1
No, that's not how solenoids work. Positional control is not about average power, it's about specific, timed impulses which result in continuous control.
Solenoids only really have open, closed or travelling between. Either your supply enough power to open the valve and it opens, or you don't and it stays closed (or vice versa, depending on whether it's ...
1
It doesn't sound like it's getting fuel, first off. Things to check:
You don't state the year, so I don't know if this has a mechanical pump or an electric one. Ensure the carb is getting fuel. As long as it is a carb, fill up the float bowls through the vent tube.
If this is fuel injected (throttle body), you'll need to put a fuel pressure gauge on the ...
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