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The ECU controls the starter on this vehicle, moving the key to start initiates a start sequence - which can continue after the key is released, and the key being in or moved to start is ignored once the engine starts, so it's not the switch. Most likely the starter motor is damaged, either the solenoid is sticking mechanically, or the contacts are welding ...


2

Yes, the starter could catch fire or it could be completely destroyed if it remains engaged while the engine is running. Check to make sure that the ignition key is returning by itself to the RUN position after you release the key from the START position. If it is not, turn the key back to RUN after the engine starts, and the starter should disengage. In ...


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The reason is that this is called “low power indexing” and is to reduce tooth to tooth abutment. How it is done is that there are 2 windings in the solenoid: the pull-in winding and the hold-in winding. The pull-in winding is earthed by going through the starter motor, the hold-in winding goes directly to earth. The 50A or so for the pull-in winding is ...


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Forgive me for this sloppy answer but I'm just taking a break from my work. Here is the starting system from the 2010 manual but I think it is the same. Hopefully it helps narrow down which part of the system is failing. The BCM handles the immobilizer but if this is having issue's you should have current or history DTC's in both the bcm and ecm. Usually ...


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It's the fuel (as well as the battery). After 2 years, the fuel in the tank has almost certainly gone bad. It's most probably also gummed up your fuel injectors. Try spraying some starter fluid down the air intake to see if you can get it to run a little while. If it does, but immediately dies once the starter fluid evaporates, you need new gasoline.


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I keep thinking why was the starter motor "changed a few times"; That is not normal,as you know; oil leaks do not affect the starter motor much,it is very enclosed,the oil flows around it; 1- First answer:Yes; but...a totally dead battery is a no-no; for 2 reasons: a) it will require extraordinarily good jumper cables,in the order of 100 dollars for the ...


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Others have already told you the battery is a goner, I'll go into why: When a battery discharges lead sulfate builds up on the plates. It is deposited in very tiny crystals that will covert back to lead and lead oxide when the battery is charged again. However, if the crystals are allowed to sit they slowly merge, forming big crystals. These won't revert ...


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It's the battery Starting an engine takes a much larger energy impulse than jumper cables can deliver directly through their typically-thin wires and the small surface area of their alligator clamps. (Unless you use very heavy jumper cables). So the way jump starting works, is you slowly add enough energy to the weak battery until it's charged up enough ...


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If the battery is completely dead, especially after sitting for two years, it most likely won't take a charge. Without the battery getting charged, you most likely don't have enough juice coming through the jumper cables to give it the power it needs to turn the Aztec over. Double check the voltage at the battery without the jumper cables on it. If it is ...


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As you stated hybrid technology varies by model and brand. I will answer in generalities. The manufacturer warranties the starter for at least 36,000 miles and in some cases 100,000 miles. They don't want to replace components for free. For the most part components are designed to last past the warranty. The start-stop function is more complex than just ...


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