21
It's because of a couple things: The battery is very dead and the alternator cannot put out enough power at idle RPMs to run the whole system and charge a battery. This leads to a lack of power which may kill one or more systems most likely the spark "ignition" system since this takes the most power and is necessary to run the car.
In Fact you can remove ...
17
What it comes down to is there are trade offs. In the case of the engine, it's torque output and rotating mass versus engine speed ... read on.
First, it isn't power which is needed, but torque to keep an engine running. In the early days of engines, each had one cylinder and didn't run very fast. To keep it running, it had a very large flywheel attached to ...
17
With a no-run scenario, think FASTEC:
Fuel
Air
Spark
Timing
Exhaust
Compression
As there's smoke on one side only, I'd be focusing on testing for spark, timing and compression.
If I had to hazard a guess, the smoke near the intake tells me that the intake valve is not seating properly.
12
FASTEC is exactly the right process to analyse this, as @Zaid said. It turns out it was contaminated fuel! That doesn't really explain why smoke just from the aft cylinder, and why there was smoke coming out from near the air intake... My guess is the misfire was powerful enough or off-time enough to get through an intake valve.
The downside: required full ...
9
An insufficiently-charged battery would explain what you're seeing:
the unresponsive throttle is because the throttle is electronically-actuated (at least that's what eBay reckons)
Not sure about the Sentra, but airbag and engine oil lights can turn on due to insufficient voltage
the engine will stall because the fuel injectors need electricity to correctly ...
9
The Royal Enfeild is a very old design. The motorcycle is based upon an old British design from World War II and has changed very little over the years. I do not know what type of quality control process the Indian manufacturing of the vehicle has implemented so that is very difficult to asses.
It sounds like your gas cap vent or your fuel tank vent is ...
8
No.
Stalling the car will not damage your car , your car is designed to absorb the impact at least a hundred times.(Most of my family members learnt driving in my car and it has stalled half of its life and its working perfectly)
Stalling the car extremely frequently especially with load(passengers) can put additional stress on the transmission components ...
7
The sensor should not cause the engine to stall. All of the accessories not working (power steering and brakes) would be normal with a stalled engine. What I would be looking at is the fuel pump might be going bad. A mechanic can easily check this by placing a fuel pressure sensor on the fuel line to check the pressure. If the engine is losing fuel pressure, ...
7
In this case replacing the fuel filter for new seems to have done the trick. I was able to find one for roughly £27 on eBay and fitted it myself in under 45 minutes. Thought I'd leave the information here in case anyone else has the same issue.
7
To add to Zaids answer.
A cheap meter from RadioShack will tell you if something is wrong with your power system. A normal car battery will be at 14.4 volts (+-.75v) when on.
7.10V is not normal and indicates a problem.
As for your gas petal, not accelerating is a necessary safety feature implemented by all manufactures that use digital throttles. ...
6
Possible Answers
We were hoping for a little feedback regarding this issue prior to attempting an answer. A few things come to mind regarding the problem description and we'll run through a few of them for you.
Regarding Stalling
Fuel Filter - Your fuel filter may be impeded and require replacement. Since you have not indicated this happens at higher RPM'...
5
Problems like this are addressed in Charles Probst's excellent reference, Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management.
From what I can gather, the Mk1 Golf utilizes a basic K-Jetronic system illustrated in the diagram below1 (which operates on the principle of continuous injection).
The stalling symptom is an indication that the air-fuel mixture is not ...
5
Oil consumption in the LM7 engines is pretty common. The L33 in my '06 Silverado is around the same amount, maybe a little less. What you are talking about sounds more like a stuck/leaky injector. Oil smoke will usually last longer than 10 seconds, if that were the issue. And it would be distinctly blue, not black/dark.
The way you could tell if this was ...
4
The engine is optimized to be efficient at high rpm or at low rpm (racing engine or cement mixer design respectively) but it can't be efficient at every possible speed so it is up to the driver to choose the best gear and speed to match the capabilities of the motor he has, i.e. keep it revving at an appropriate rpm for the speed/torque demanded of that ...
4
I took the care to the a mechanic and they said it was or could be two things:
When the battery dies sometimes the internal computer\memory needs to be reset.
The car's throttle body needed cleaning.
So far it has not stalled after having both of these done (5 days now).
Not sure which of the above actually of the above fixed the issue ... maybe both.
...
4
Fuel, Air, Spark... those three things in the right amount are what makes the engine go. The good news is your car's fuel system is controlled by a computer which gives feedback on possible issues in the fuel system. You are going to want to read the stored codes. Not sure where you are located, but in my location Autozone offers a free service to read ...
4
There are scanners that will talk to OBD1 computers, but most shops (I would guess) don't have the equipment anymore. I got rid of my OBD1 equipment last year. I've seen ≤ 2 cars that required me to use it in the past 4 years.
Maybe a GM dealer would still have the equipment. You would have to call around and ask.
By jumping pin A to pin B on the ALDL the ...
4
There are two places this could be: ICM or Optispark. The intermittent nature of it leads me to believe it is ignition related. On your year of LT1, ignition issues can pretty much be boiled down to these two things (as you are describing).
Just because you've replaced the ICM, does not mean it isn't at fault. Usually the way the engine dies with an ICM ...
4
I suspect your Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve. It's job is to feed enough air to the engine when you take your foot of the throttle. This is a 15 year old engine we are talking about, the valve may be too dirty to operate or may have simply broken. You may want to try one from the junkyard just for diagnosis purposes, and you should be able to do this yourself....
4
The majority of cars built in the last 10 years have what is known as a smart charge system, i.e. the alternator only puts out what the consumers demand. With a totally flat vehicle and a donor car connected the suspect alternator sees a fully charged battery with an existing alternator output so does not turn on.
I have fooled these systems by starting the ...
4
Vehicle behavior depends on the two types of alternators:
A vehicle with a self-exciting alternator (aka one-wire alternator) will run without battery power. This describes my Honda and most Chevys. These vehicles can be jump-started without a battery and will continue to run once jumper cables are removed.
A non self-exciting alternator requires 12V power ...
4
It sounds to me as though your carburettor has a blocked main jet. I'd remove it and clean it out with compressed air or carburettor cleaner. The idle circuit uses a different jet which is probably with it ticks over perfectly but dies (probably of fuel starvation) as soon as you open the throttle.
3
There is a sidestand switch that kills the motor if you attempt to put it into gear with the sidestand down, it's a safety measure. Check that switch at the top of your sidestand to see if the a mount bolt or nut has fallen out thereby loosening the switch and making the vehicle inoperable when you put it into gear.
3
The idle air control valve is integrated into the throttle body unit as shown here:
It may not look exactly like that, there was an update some time around then but the parts are very similar and the principles are the same.
There is a forum thread with a few more pictures of the cleaning process here:
http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=65279
...
3
Your Problem
There are a few reasons that you might have your engine cut out.
If you have any error codes (found by plugging in a scan tool to the OBDII port on your car), they would help dramatically in being able to narrow down the array of possible answers to your problem. If you do have a faulty connection, which I don't think you do, then a code ...
3
This may assist in diagnosis
May not be an answer for you but you mentioned;
The spark plugs are burned at the tip.
The definition of burned is important to your diagnosis. If burned means the electrodes are eaten up a beat you could be suffering from a lean condition from a vacuum leak or a sensor not reporting properly to the ECU.
IF you have a CEL (...
3
It sounds like you have an intermitant failing sensor. On most of the systems I have worked with the crank sensor isn't required and wouldn't inhibit the engine from starting. The cam sensor or possibly the maf sensor could cause this behavior. Really what you need to do is pull the code. One thing to add, is that crank and cam position sensors are Hall ...
3
My guess is fuel pressure, a bad pump or clogged fuel filter.
I would put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what the pressure is next time it stalls and you try to restart.
3
Sounds like fuel pressure drops off, fuel pump is weak, you would need a fuel pressure gauge connected when it stalls to check this
Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible