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6

You have a couple of choices here, neither of which includes you cleaning these yourself. You do not have the equipment or chemicals to correctly or efficiently clean and flow test these injectors. It is important to ensure each of the injectors flows the same amount of fuel in a given time at a specified fuel pressure. Only a professional service can ...


6

The injectors you have shown in your pictures are not servicable items. They can be tested using the appropriate service machinery. You should be able to get a new set of external seals though. When tested professionally they are tested for their electrical performance, delivery performance, and spray pattern over varying fuel pressures and voltages. ...


4

It sounds like a fuel delivery problem. I suggest getting your fuel pump checked out or replacing it... Usually this is the type of problem that starts out small and eventually gets to the point where you are at right now. Have you noticed recently that the engine seems to have less power at high rpms? Or that maybe it has even started dieing even while you ...


4

If the above is true (no spark and no injector pulse), then it could be caused by any combination of the following: Key Immobilizer faulted (unlikely unless you're using a non-standard key or bypassed it for a remote starter or some crazy electrical nonsense). If it is this, to replace the immobilizer unit and/or keys could be around $300 or so. Crank Angle ...


4

DTC P0122 Throttle postion sensor (TPS) switch A circuit low input Possible causes include: Poor connection Open or short to ground Faulty TPS Faulty PCM DTC P0401 EGR flow insufficient Possible causes include: Faulty EGR vavle Fauty PCM


4

Fuel, Air, Spark... those three things in the right amount are what makes the engine go. The good news is your car's fuel system is controlled by a computer which gives feedback on possible issues in the fuel system. You are going to want to read the stored codes. (On Board Diagnostics, for your car should be OBDII) Not sure where you are located, but in my ...


3

There are three parts to do what you want to do. You need a plug in reader. The one on your link will do. This part reads the coding from your system and 'broadcasts' it. Then you need an Android smart phone to pick up the 'broadcast' and act as a display unit for the codings. The smart phone will need an app to do this. If you are still googling, look up ...


3

There are several factors involved here, such as which engine/transmission your car has (GLS/LX models may be different). Also, what type of driving is done (normal/severe). Before you discount "severe" driving, most people fall under this category and don't even realize it. With that said, according to Hyundai's website, you should be changing you oil every ...


3

Your Sonata has a cabin air filter (CAF). You should try to change that out first. More than likely, you have some mildew built up somewhere. The CAF is the first place to start.


2

Without any other symptoms or issues, I would assume you just ran over something that your tire threw into the body of your car. Like a piece of a re-tread tire. Look under the hood for anything that looks out of place and check under the car for any fluid that might be leaking. If you don't find anything just keep driving and pay attention for anything ...


2

If you bought the car and have the window sticker, all of the options will be listed on the sticker. If you don't have your window sticker anymore (usually only stupidly anal people like me would keep it), take your VIN down to your Hyundai dealership and ask them to see what options came on it. They should store all of that stuff in their databases (most ...


2

It's hard to diagnose without more information, but it could be that your throttle plate was stuck open. This might explain: the engine revving even after the engine coming to a stop (fuel injection management compensates for more air by adding more fuel) the feeling that the engine is running rough (misfiring in the event of a lean condition, while the ...


2

1) How can I tell if it's my pump or just a part in the pipes? You have to figure out exactly where it's leaking from. To do this takes a little sleuthing, but it shouldn't be too difficult. The easiest way to do this is to refill the reservoir, run the engine, then work the power steering while sitting still. You then get on the ground and see where the ...


2

If the manual says that there should be infinite resistance, then you need to test using the highest range on you DMM. If you have a M ohm range, then use that. Do not rely on the continuity range for detecting high resistances. I do think that a crankshaft position sensor and associated wiring could have a fault that would not be detected with the lower ...


2

I have an '08 Azera (which I mentioned in the comments). The Azera has a powered antenna, but not the electric kind which goes up in down. It's an antenna which resides in the back glass. It has a power booster which must be powered in order for the radio to pick up radio stations. In the Pioneer wiring harness, it should be a blue w/ white stripe wire (one ...


2

Don't try and fix anything - it's under warranty and you don't want to affect that. Your best option is to go to another dealer and explain to them (nicely) and even go for a drive with their tester so you can say when it does what you notice.


1

The fuel filter is part of the fuel pump inside the gas tank, it is not serviceable and only gets changed when the pump is changed.


1

The manual states that the ground must be totally insulated from point 2. The highest range is the correct setting here to begin with. If any resistance (conductance is the better word here) is present, the highest range will give you the best chance to detect it. Additionally, if any resistance is detected at that range, turn the range down to determine the ...


1

Something similar happened to my 2006 Toyota Prius and I solved by pushing the "Display" button. Maybe the pushing the "DISP" button may do this job for you too.


1

There are specific steps involved with the drive cycle. I pulled this from this site. You are not completing some part of it. Hyundai Sonata Drive Cycle STEP 1: Make sure check engine light is not on and that there are no stored trouble codes in the computer. Use a scan tool to check for OBD II trouble codes. Any faults founds need to be ...


1

With what detail you have given, I will say the typical cause for what you are describing is the brake rotors/drums are no longer true. To resolve this, a complete brake job must be done on which ever end of the vehicle is having issues. It is far more common for this to be caused by the front rotors than by the rear, but it could be either or both. An ...


1

This sounds like a voltage drop. The most likely candidates are: the heater resistor the heater fan These components are usually located right next to eachother, in the footwell if the front passenger. The resistor can be electrically tested using a multi-meter (measure the resistance through all combinations of connections), the fan too. Also check that ...


1

I would bet the cylinder is only stuck. You can probably get it to work again by using some type of lubricant. That could be either WD-40 (just a little bit ... don't want to soak the thing) or if you don't like the smell, try some dry graphite.


1

This sounds like you need to take it to the dealership and get it fixed. With Hyundai's warranty, this should not be an issue. As for the problem itself, it sounds like there may be a transmission problem (you say you were at 4-6k rpms, sounds like the engine is revving quite high). Check to ensure there is enough transmission fluid present.


1

Bank 1 on any engine is the bank that carries No 1 cylinder. Sensor1 is the first sensor from where the exhaust manifold bolts onto the engine/head. Some scans will show an 'N/A' on a four cylinder engine for Bank2. This means that the ECU is programmed for a four cylinder, but can be programmed for a 6 or 8 cylinder vee using differant software. Your ...


1

This sounds like an ABS failure.


1

The following is a summary of generic OBD II drive cycle instructions for a Hyundai: The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) should be between 14 and 122 degrees F. Barometric pressure should be equal to or greater than 75 kPa. The fuel tank should be between 25 and 75% full at the start of the test. During acceleration, keep throttle 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 open. ...


1

I think I can come up with four options for you: Get some rubber cement and run a small bead around all of the connection points of the hose to make sure they are sealed. Ensure you clean the rubber very well prior to putting any sealant on it. Go to a junk yard (or look online) for a replacement. Find an aftermarket cold air intake as a replacement. If all ...


1

For your vehicle to start you need fuel, ignition, and compression. You can check the ignition easily by holding one of the plug wires, after removing it from the spark plug, a short distance - a quarter of an inch - from the engine block. Have an assistant crank the engine. You should see a strong spark to the block if the ignition is working OK. The fuel ...


1

Code P0171 is a pretty general code for 'engine running weak'. Running weak means too much air, or, not enough fuel. The main culprits are a loose or damaged vacuum hose, EGR valve staying open, EVAP system leaking air into the system, faulty fuel injector(s), or a leaking exhaust system. It does not seem to be the oxygen sensor to me because you have rough ...


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