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14

This sounds very much as though your clutch is slipping. Essentially, the clutch plates aren't making strong contact and slip against each other under hard acceleration. Under gentle acceleration there is less stress on the clutch and so slipping is less likely. It is not that you are losing power but that the power is being wasted. This can be caused by ...


6

Some thoughts: think about interfaces where could coolant and oil mix. The head gasket is one place but there may be another place like an oil-water heat exchanger. Under normal circumstances I would expect the oil to flow into the coolant reservoir and not vice versa due to pressure differentials (oil is usually at a higher pressure than coolant). In your ...


6

There's much older cars that don't have their 1st gear synchronised. My '76 Triumph TR7 doesn't have it, and I bet your Skoda doesn't have it either. You either have to come to a complete standstill before you can engage 1st gear, or you'd have to double declutch. The latter requires quite some exercise to master. Reverse gear isn't synchronised in much (...


4

Once the vehicle is started, either with a new battery (if the current one is damaged beyond use ... might be, considering the amount of time it was dead) or with the one which is in there already after it's been recharged, I doubt you'll see any issues with the electronics or otherwise. There are a few exceptions to this, one of those being if rodents have ...


3

Solved, it was a fuel injector that sprays extra gasoline. Cylender 1 was the almost the only one that misfires although others does every now and then. The situation becomes worse when I add injector cleaner to the fuel. I replaced the injector and everything back to normal. However, I noticed the oil level increased (before I figure out the injector) ...


3

I would suggest your refrigerant is low and needs a recharge. It can get to a point where there is enough for the A/C to kick on, but not enough to actually cool it for very long. When the system sits idle, the refrigerant will equalize in the system between the low/high sides. When in this state, it will cool the interior of your car for a short period of ...


3

To properly answer your question, yes your car has an inter-cooler. Here is a link to Forge site to a replacement for your OEM one (this prove the existence of the stock one). I cannot find any definitive answer but as far as I can tell most (see lower) VW engines with turbos have an inter-cooler. It is generally located behind the bumper on either side of ...


2

I think you can turn them on/off using the touch stuff found on page 38 of the manual you gave a link to. Here is an excerpt from it: Looking at Figure 15 (on the left), it says to change the display to use G (bottom right hand corner of the display), which then flips you over to Figure 16 (on the right). Then try using A (upper left) on this screen or ...


2

The brake fluid was running low, during heavy acceleration or turning the fluid will roll away from the sensor, which created the warning. I topped up with DOT4 brake fluid and the problem has been resolved. Do not shake the Brake fluid you do not want bubbles dispersed in you brake fluid.


2

One way you can find out if it's a leaking door seal is to apply glycerine to the door seals and then drive around to see if the noise changes or disappears. If there's no change at all, the sound is probably not coming from the seal. If it is quieter, or changes tone or pitch, then there's probably a gap somewhere. By applying the glycerine to only part of ...


2

Slipping clutch by excessive wear. You need to change ideally the whole thing: pressure plate, disk and bearing. It could be oil leak but it would "burn" and eventually work, temporaly anyway.


2

TL DR: You should have no issues. Almost every engine stand I've dealt with and/or used is designed to support the engine from the back side of it where the transmission connects to it. There should be more than enough support at the transmission bell housing mounting points to support the engine off of the stand. You'll want to ensure you have long enough ...


2

My suggestion is to go with set #1 without any modification to the pins or adding anything to the pins. While the pins are a bit shorter than what comes stock, they should work fine. The difference of only 5mm (or 0.1969") is not a huge one. These should be handle this size of engine without giving you any problems. I think you have too many issues with the ...


2

Alright! Mistery solved, engine was overheating because several events: a) it was passing water to the oil sump because the head gasket got damaged, because: b) two missing bolts in the head! One was broken inside its hole, the other got the hole threads damaged c) passing water to the oil (and vs.) made the water sticky, attracting more dirt, because: d)...


2

On a 1.9TDI PD, on the right-hand side of the engine, tucked away, facing the back of the engine bay and with the socket release catch facing away from you! But only look after your temp sensor whene your engine is cold jpg


2

I have a piece that is of same shape (not dismounted) in my new Octavia III 5E(facelift). It's in the glove box, fitted to the left, down. We have been guessing what it could be used for and it looks like pen and paper holder. The panel is pressing to the left side wall of the glove box, so you could fit thin things behind it. I would say it just got loose, ...


2

Diesel getting into the oil is a fault - those « monkeys » are probably correct... The usual cause is that one or more of the injectors has failed or become faulty and has been leaking excess diesel into the cylinders, washing down the bores and collecting in the sump. This may need an engine rebuild (expensive) or it may just recover with repair or ...


2

The difference may be due to the angle you are looking at. Try taking a photograph of the rear of the car that matches the press photo (same distance and angle) and see what difference that makes. Also bear in mind that some press photos will be of pre-production cars. Looking at this diagram, I'd say the measure I'd personally apply would be that the ...


2

It refers to the finger tip single-wipe operaration, where the control lever is tipped/tapped/moved against a spring. The other positions (intermittent, normal, fast) are not sprung: the lever stays where it is put. In my Skoda Octavia, the lever is tapped in the downward direction to get a single wipe. The other settings are in the upward direction.


2

Most if not all these function are circuited through the doors. Opening doors and closing doors sometimes has an effect on the issues. This points to worn wiring between the door and body. There will be a rubber boot between the hinge side of the door and the body. Theses contain wires that control these functions. With all of the flexing these wires endure ...


1

I can only suggest this as I've not done it myself nor have I seen it done. I do, however, know your situation, so I believe this is your best bet (considering). My suggestion to you is to go the sleeved route. The only problem with it will be it should be heat treated after welding is done. The weld will mess with the hardening which is done to the axle ...


1

The standard is OBD II (On board Diagnostics), which you find in most cars since 1996. I have a Skoda Fabia 2006, and I use a bluetooth module (this one, but which ever will do)that I then connect to an app in my android phone to read/clear error codes, and monitor different sensor readings. Here is a list of Bluetooth adapters You find the OBD connector ...


1

I'd suggest the issue lies with the button itself. Obviously if it was down, it has power and the motor works. If you pull up the switch unit and figure out which is power from the battery and which goes out to the window motor, you should be able to apply power to motor and bring it back to the upright position. If for some reason there's no power coming ...


1

There are a number of versions of the 2004 1.9 TDI engine which develop between 90bhp and 150bhp. That said, even the 90bhp version ought to be capable of 160kph plus. The first thing I would do is plug the car into a fault code reader. I'd scan it with a tool such as VDCS (the Lite freeware version will be sufficient for your needs here) and look for any ...


1

It sounds as though your Octavia has a mechanical handbrake system. With this type of system, there's a main cable (or pull) which goes from the hand brake actuator to a splitter, then has two cables which go back to the rear brakes, which then actuates the parking brakes (either part of the primary brakes, or a secondary brake only used for parking). If one ...


1

The bendix is designed to "freewheel" in one direction as some users are slow to release the key as the engine starts and the flywheel accelerates. Having to wait for it to slow down is much less damaging.... If you consider that the engine increases in speed from say 600rpm to 1300rpm, then the poor starter that has a drive ratio of 30 or 40 to 1 suddenly ...


1

The reason was a leaky nozzle. It went well after changing the nozzle on the misfiring cylinder. I think that the fuel enhance actually worsened or caused this situation. I used it because I drove the car for very short distances (3km) for long time during winter, that is when the car failed the emission test. I also had to replace the engine oil that was ...


1

I would say yes, but use most, if not all the studs as using just 1 or 2 may crack the casting. The disadvantage will be your access to fitting the flywheel and clutch. The factory mounting points are usually placed to allow robots to do assembly. So, after your edit, the answer still stands. :)


1

ok a few things to check then do you have enough compression? are you cranking fast enough you should be able to smell fuel as your cranking. take any filters or intake off and smell what happens. my guess is you are either too right or too lean also your fuel is good fuel I am assuming.


1

B7 is a code reserved for manufacturers so they can test for their own custom failures. They could be silly and use it to test if your dashboard light is burnt out for example. Default, as in the generic OBD2 spec, it should be 0. Ultimately a 1 in some cars could be normal, but who knows. People need to look up the specific code for that specific model to ...


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