9

While disconnecting the fuel pump relay and running the engine will work, there are other alternatives. If you can access the Schräder valve, depress it to release the pressurized fuel before disconnecting the fuel lines. This will have the effect of reducing fuel line pressure. It helps to have the vehicle cool down and not running for a few hours. I don'...


9

The link @cory posted is the description from the service manual. Just a repaste and I'll add some images and additional information. Cylinder deactivation is accomplished by not allowing the intake and exhaust valves to open on the selected cylinders by using special valve lifters. The deactivation lifters contain spring loaded locking pins that ...


7

Things you will need: Head unit Steering wheel audio control adapter compatible with the head unit. Example for your truck Dash kit. It allows for the radio to fit in the non-standard opening.Link to kits Factory system adapter. Allows you to plug in the head unit harness into the factory one and keep the current speaker system in place without splicing in. ...


7

There's air in the lines from the sounds of it, likely from them not correctly bleeding the system. An air bubble in the system will compress before the rest of the fluid in the lines, thus not actuating the brake callipers. If you don't have the tools to bleed your brakes at home, you should take it back to the workshop and get them to asap.


6

You are correct in how to do this. I was just watching an episode of "Tech Garage" and they were talking about this very topic. Their suggested methodology was to pull the fuel pump fuse, and run the engine till it stopped on it's own. You can now change out the fuel filter. You will still get some fuel out of the line, but nothing like having 30-60 psi of ...


6

I see the following possibilities: Like dlu said: wrong range of spark plugs. Perhaps you can try some colder ones. When trying this: be sure to check the spark plugs soon, a too cold spark plug tends to get soot buildup. Engine running lean. Is there a matching trouble code stored? Try to run the engine with disconnected maf sensor. Should things get ...


5

This is a common issue. Sometimes the door actuator needs to be reset, as it gets confused. When I had this problem in my Avalanche, I found that turning the temperature all the way to the 90 degree max setting (when set to equal cooling for both sides), waiting a few seconds for the door to stop moving, and then turning the temp back down, would resolve the ...


5

There is a TSB 06-01-39-011A A/C - WHISTLE NOISE/BLOWER MOTOR STALLS/VIBRATES This bulletin only applies to Delphi-built HVAC cases, which can be easily identified by visually inspecting the HVAC case from under the passenger instrument panel. The Visteon case is bolted together at the case halves and the bolts are silver in color. The Delphi case ...


5

Based on the details you have provided, your system is as follows: 4 Ohm coaxial speakers rated at 60w RMS (4) 4 Ohm subwoofer rated at approximately 400w RMS SVC (1) Your options include those you have mentioned which are common: A single 5 channel amp 4 channel amp + monoblock amp Having a separate amp for the mids/highs and lows allows you to have ...


5

Oil consumption in the LM7 engines is pretty common. The L33 in my '06 Silverado is around the same amount, maybe a little less. What you are talking about sounds more like a stuck/leaky injector. Oil smoke will usually last longer than 10 seconds, if that were the issue. And it would be distinctly blue, not black/dark. The way you could tell if this was ...


5

Older vintage Silverados had a known issue with piston slap. It is worse in the winter but is always present even in warmer weather. The forums have been saying for well over a decade it has to do with the sizing of the aluminum pistons. Way back when things were built to tighter standards, cylinder bores were matched with piston sizes. While all the parts ...


4

First of all, the 5.3l engine (could be all of the Vortec LS engines, don't know) is thirsty. It drinks a bit of oil. Be aware you could be looking at up to 2 quarts between oil changes. I don't know exactly what the issue is, but it does have a bit of an oil control issue whether it has to do with leakage or burning. My '06 is this way. It has never ran bad ...


4

went back and they bled the brakes again after telling me they were good twice and now they work like they did before the master cylinder went bad. Problem solved.


4

My first thought here is to tackle the problems methodically, one at a time. The one that sounds most significant to me is the plug 5 damage – from what you've said it sounds like detonation (aka pinging, due to premature ignition), but I would also double check that the spark plugs are the correct ones, it could be that you've got plugs in there with a ...


4

The cracked bell housing would not be preventing the flywheel from turning as an automatic transmission doesn't work that way. The engine is not physically coupled to the transmission from a driven aspect. The torque converter uses fluid sheering to do its thing. If the engine isn't running, there's nothing there. Something caused the cracked bell housing, ...


4

I did some searching on the Interwebz and found this wiring breakout of the plug which goes into the back side of the stock head unit: Here is an image of the socket in the back of the head unit: You cannot tell it in this image, but at the base near the pins the two rows are lettered (A & B) and each pin along the A row is numbered. From this, I took ...


4

What I do if I'm not sure about the vehicle being stable way up there is: gently nudge the vehicle side to side using only the strength from your wrists. Kind of like when you're checking if a door in your house is actually latched or just resting against the door jam without the door knob's latch actually holding. Or like when you come home late, the wife'...


4

I seem to remember with the old Peugeot 205, which had torsion bar rear suspension, the method was to count the splines on the bars and make sure the new ones went in the same way. Remember that the new ones might sit higher as the old ones will have lost some of their spring, and that it will drop slightly as it settles. Also remember to do the final ...


4

I'm new here, but there's a thing called piston slap. This is when the piston skirt gets worn and starts to hit the sides of the cylinder wall. It happens on older vehicles with high milage. If this is what it is there's not much you can do about it except to just ignore it. Other possibilities are low engine oil level, low oil pressure, worn valve train.....


3

There is more than likely one of two things going on here. Sticking/Stuck Lifter There could be a lifter going bad. These tend to make a lot of noise up top, then can quiet down after the oil starts flowing and the engine warms up. This isn't an easy thing to fix, but the lifter quite readily could live the rest of the vehicles life like this without any ...


3

I think you may be overthinking this. Parallax means the appearance will vary depending on the distance and angle between the viewer and the truck, so unless there's some ISO standard reference point for racing stripe viewing, whatever shape looks right at (say) six feet will look off from 40' away in the opposite lane, and vice versa. I'd base any line ...


3

Yes, you can replace the bulbs, but it's not the easiest thing to do. You need to have patience and a soldering iron. Many people take this time to replace the bulbs with LED bulbs, in a color of their choice. It's also recommended that you replace all of the bulbs at the same time to alleviate having to tear it all apart again in the near future for the ...


3

You have to replace the module or switch that has the lights out. On the older body style chevys you were able to replace just the bulbs but not anymore.


3

In order to confirm the diagnosis, you may want to get a second opinion. Some shops will do front-end inspections for free. If the truck is more difficult to steer in one direction only, it does suggest something's not mechanically right with the suspension or steering, but I doubt the power-steering pump is the real culprit. Also, to remove other potential ...


3

If you want the truck to last, my suggestion is to take care of this surface rust as best as possible. This depends on the amount of work you are willing to go through to take care of it. Here is my suggestion, though. The easiest way to take care of this would be to use a rust encapsulator such as POR15. Products like this bonds with the rust, stopping it ...


3

Perhaps I will get some heat for my opinion but I do not like the shown jack stands. I have a (totally unfounded) fear that I could hit the lever with my feet and the stand collapses, that the locking mechanism isn't really engaged or that the cast iron extension shatters because some guy in an far-eastern foundry wanted to safe on precious alloy materials. (...


3

Trucks often use a worm gear system as the steering mechanism. Older Chevrolet's use a recirculating ball steering gear which has small ball bearings in the grooves of the worm gear. There is an external disc-shaped bracket attached to the worm gear that connects to the steering shaft where the steering wheel is attached. Between the bracket on the gear and ...


3

More than likely the lifters are getting worn out. When this happens, they lose the oil in the body while sitting for a long time, then there's lots of excess valvetrain noise. Once the oil pressure is completely up and has completely filled the lifters, the noise will abate. Replacing the lifters in the engine should completely cure the issue (if this is ...


2

I think at this point you have three areas to look. First, double check the entire intake tract for vacuum leaks. Anyplace you could have unmetered air (air entering after the MAF). You'll also want to pull the intake tube and ensure there aren't any cracks in it as well. Make sure all of your clamps are in good working order and are sealing things. ...


2

On a dual AC 2010 Ford Edge with both thermostats set for AC, the passenger side blew hot air, the driver side cold. I thought at first it may be a faulty blend door actuator on the passenger side. I changed a very dirty cabin filter and started the engine.....immediate cold air blew on the passenger side! Not sure if a dirty cabin filter can confuse the ...


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