Hot answers tagged

10

The most likely cause is that the cable that runs down to the starter motor has been rubbing against the body or the engine and has worn through the insulation.


9

Have a look at this picture: From here. Corrosion (the green stuff) can conduct electricity. If one wire in that picture went to the battery positive terminal and the other went to the battery negative terminal, then it would act like a connection between the two. Not quite a short circuit, but not an open circuit either. If the cause of the problem ...


7

Sounds like a dead short, one large enough like that should be easily visible, either through burn marks on a metal edge or bracket or a hole in the insulation. Check and follow all the main or thick wires.


6

If the fuse is blowing as soon as you perform an action it's a short to ground. Multimeter won't do much good in this situation. It'll come down to wiring diagrams and visual inspection of the harness and connectors on the circuit. Unless you have a fancy tool that will find the short for you. It looks like fuse 21 powers a bunch of stuff, but since the ...


6

The parking lamp/headlight switch applies power or ground so the circuit would be open if you were testing with the switch off. Same with the turn signals. The tail lights are on separate circuits. They don't share a ground. Does the car have an aftermarket trailer harness? If not your going to have to remove panels and visually inspect the harness for ...


5

The effect of corroded or poorly soldered battery terminals is responsible for excessive voltage drop, not parasitic current drain. They are not the root cause of the parasitic drain.


4

Same problem, but another forum suggested that the key in their 98 GC can be removed one click past the OFF position, in the ACC on position. Sure enough, I checked mine and found the battery drain was due to the key switch being left in ACC and then being removed. The key shouldn't come out there but it does. I screwed a small metal bracket to stop the ...


3

No, you will not be shorting the battery. The relay COIL, for a 12V relay, is designed so that when it's energized (i.e. connected between 12V and ground) will only pass enough current to close the relay contacts. Technically, the relay coil is generally a wire winding around a core material, usually laminated iron pieces. The coil presents both an ...


3

Well, if it is charging and all is fine it sounds like you got away with it. Don't try it again as you may not be so lucky... It is possible to blow the alternator, or some of the other electrical components or even cause the battery to explode... The "proper" method is to first remove the negative from the "dead" vehicle (the lead should not be on the ...


3

As Zaid said, start with crasic's excellent answer in: How do you test analogue electrical circuits? . For your situation specifically, I would introduce a small voltage between the fuse holder of the fuse that is blowing, and ground. Use a continuity noise generator or a light bulb so you can hear or see your progress. Then, get into that bundle of wires ...


3

Wow I can't believe the basics are totally not listed here. First of all, since you know its draining the battery, disconnect the battery, charge it, then check to see if it is still draining on its own. Saying that for anyone that hasn't tried that first to double check the battery itself. Then there are the basics. The alternator check: you can use a ...


3

I know this is an old forum, but I need to comment. I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo that I bought for my daughter to use. The battery was brand new when I got the Jeep, but soon after purchasing it I would find if it sat a few days without driving it the battery would be completely dead. I searched online, asked my mechanic friends and didn't hear ...


3

When using an external battery to jump a car, make sure your external battery is getting recharged. You should not need to jump the car everyday, that is not normal, and not healthy. Since you are living in the car, if you are using the cigarette port to power electrical things with the engine off, or even just the lights and radio, that will kill your ...


2

Your sense is correct. Battery terminal corrosion is by necessity, a series phenomenon. That is, it can build up resistance, but it is in series with other loads. So unless those loads are flowing current, the terminal itself cannot. The car, quiescent, should draw a few milliamps for memory "keep-alive" going to computer, radio and clock. Adding ...


2

You say you didn't have time to do a complete diagnosis. I am wondering if you allowed enough time to let all the modules sleep when checking draw. The corrosion repair could have fixed a charging problem, and there may not have been a draw problem. To confirm all you need to do is another draw test after repairs.


2

Probably not. A parasitic drain requires electricity to be flowing, a corroded or badly soldered terminal would not cause a drain unless it somehow bridged the electricity to the car body or some other path. Usually a corroded terminal will reduce power flow. So unless the terminal is somehow in contact with something conductive that isn't the cause of ...


2

Fuses blow because they get too hot and they melt. So, either you have: A short – which you don't because the light works, although you might have a high resistance short, check that by disconnecting the bulb and measuring between the fuse terminal and ground, the resistance should be infinite. Another sign of a high resistance short is that the bulb may ...


2

Starter of your car is gone. Replace carbon brush in your starter or get a used starter


2

That just means that particular circuit is an always on circuit and not switched by the ignition. When you reconnect the battery lead the computer is probably doing a power on test and as such some relays are being activated such as testing the fan etc.


2

I can say the easy way for you is to get a low amp tester. Remove the negative cable of your battery, connect the tester to the negative side of the battery and to the negative cable of vehicle. The light will come on if there is a drain somewhere. If there is, remove fuses 1 at a time. Every time you remove a fuse, check the light. If it goes out then you ...


2

Looking at the wiring diagrams, it makes sense that Fuse #53 blows if there is a short. I would start by unplugging the washer motor, and see if a new fuse remains whole after turning the ignition on. A simple way to isolate the problem to a shorted washer pump motor. If that isn't the case, the following diagrams should help:


1

1) CRC makes an QD Electrical Contact Cleaner. It's available at most auto parts stores. This will work fine for cleaning electrical terminals. I like to use that and a brass brush to clean terminals. 2) You can usually buy a starter rebuild kit. Check RockAuto.com. Up to use to decide if the price/effort is worth the hassle or if replacing the starter ...


1

This is normal, the insulation has deteriorated due to a possible combination of things : heat, light, oil or petrol etc etc It can be due to one or several of these factors. When they designed the vehicle, it was designed to a price and one of the decisions was to use a wire with insulation to last a determined amount of time. Given the age of your ...


1

An easy way to narrow down the source(s) of parasitic draw on the battery is to measure the voltage drop across each of the fuses in the fuse box using a multimeter. This is done by bringing the probe tips into contact with the terminals on the face of the fuse. A non-zero voltage reading indicates that there is current passing through the fuse, indicating ...


1

i'm really surprised! you have really a good knowledge in diagnostic techniques, any way upon to my experience that car has faulty ecm motherboard , you have to make sure in case if you disconnect the ecm you will loss " ROM" the keep alive memory or not because the same thing with camaro , if not you can disconnect ecm and see voltage will drop to zero at ...


1

There are two kinds of shorts, dead shorts and partial shorts. With a dead short the load device will stop working with the tool connected because all the current shunts to ground. With a partial short only some of the current is shunted. This will cause an over current but with the tool connected, which controls the current, the load will work. ...


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