Your Aviator has an ignition coil, rather than a magneto, to generate the spark. That means that it relies on the battery to have enough charge to generate the spark, so likely the ignition is only producing sparks once you've cranked the engine over enough to put a little charge into the battery.
Engines with magnetos that generate the spark directly from ...
There’s an outside chance you could get it started with a hammer and chisel but a safer bet would be to drill a couple of holes and use a peg spanner - the sort of thing you’d use to change an angle grinder disc. For something smaller I’d cross- cut it with a hacksaw and use a flat screwdriver.
While various items such as maintenance and ease of tire removal are cited for the SSSA (Single Sided Swing Arm) design, initial testing and development of all these designs were started on the racetrack. Honda initially released their version of the SSSA with NSR250R.
image of an NSR250R
All of the early SSSA's were developed for racing to ...
I would try using a hammer and centre punch to tap around the circumference of the plug in the direction that will undo the plug.
Example video of how to do it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Tx7yILT-Fc
Heat may help, but you would need to be careful that you don’t set fire to the oil.
It will not damage the engine at all. All that will happen is that it will run richer, thus using more fuel.
If you did it for thousands of miles you'd probably end up with more deposits in the engine/exhaust, but even that is easy to sort.
As a 35 year veteran motorcycle rider and owner of 15 different bikes during that time, while I don't dispute the unsprung weight argument made by DucatiKiller, I can tell you that there is a much, much, much more practical reason for using a single sided swing arm: It dramatically simplifies chain maintenance.
You see, with a double sided swing arm, you ...
Its really simple. Gloves for both active protection - they stop you getting slippery hands and crashing. And in the end of a crash they stop your hands being smeared on the road.
Alternative grips will also be available such as these Renthal grips, with a coarser grip pattern they should stop being so slippery even with sweaty hands.
Personally I wouldn'...
It probably is that the installer of the spark plug did over tightened it, but it doesn't mean they used an impact gun. There may be other things going on here which has seized the plug in the hole or is making it very hard to turn.
First of all, there are recommendations for plug tightening. The following chart from this website shows:
The same site states:...
Since what is left is scrap, I would drill and tap close to the edges, but not so close to the edge as to interfere with the threads (otherwise it would lock it in place) so two bolts with nuts can be screwed in and the bolts tightened with the nuts.
Then it should turn using a flat bar, or screwdriver.
I can't find the fuse location for the 125cc
The loation of the fuse on the 49cc version is in the battery compartment.
From the manual
BATTERY AND FUSE.
THE BATTERY HAVE TWO TYPE ：REFILL WATER TYPE AND SEALED TYPE.
REPLACE THE BATTERY, PLEASE TAKE OFF LEG SHIELD CUSHION, UNSCREW THE TAPPING SCREW AND REMOVE THE BATTERY BOX LID, YOU ...
There are scientific explanations for this. The long and short of it is that the rear tire bears the most weight just the same as a bicycle. ( Brian, if you weren't in OH I'd say let's go for a ride so that I can witness your phenomenon )
If your last paragraph is the question, I think it is far too broad. You would be best off getting the manual and with its help:
reconnecting anything that should be connected
cleaning anything dirty or full of insects etc
check continuity of all wires individually and replace any that are faulty
check spark plugs
check air inlets
move all mechanical parts ...
The information provided by DucatiKiller is excellent.
I believe the biggest advantage is access, which makes wheel changes and maintenance arguably easier. This could also translate to pit-lane advantage in racing situations.
Particular case - in the case with Ninja H2R -
Having a single-sided swingarm allows the exhaust pipe to be mounted
Your experiencing fouled plugs. Fouled plugs have carbon buildup that grounds the electrode of the spark plugs over the ceramic with carbon. The carbon buildup occurs because the AFR (Air Fuel Ration) is too rich. This makes the combustion process, when you fuel is burned, too cool. Since combustion is too cool carbon buildup occurs on your sparkplug and ...
How the choke works
The choke of a scooter consists of a dedicated choke nozzle in the fuel reservoir and two narrow drillings leading to the venturi (the pipe where the air goes through):
When the motor cranks and the choke is active, the slight underpressure in the venturi sucks in extra fuel through this drillings. When the choke is inactive, a piston (...
You can try heating it with a torch to loosen it. You could also get a reverse-direction drill bit, and drill down into the bolt; the heat will help the reverse bit to unscrew it, and if not then you can easily get the remainder of the bolt out by stepping up bit sizes.
The first things to check that come to mind...
Make sure all the fuses are in place. He could have pulled one or more.
check that the spark plug wires are connected tightly to the spark plugs and distributor.
check the electrical connections on the ignition coil.
check the electrical connections for the fuel pump and fuel injection if it is injected.
Based on my limited knowledge on scooters courtesy of owning one for about 3 years and assuming your scooter is carb and has similar mechanism (BTW not able to Google your make and model it's rare)
First of all check the carburettor.
If the carb is blocked then you will notice the symptoms which you have mentioned , blockage at higher throttle.
Check the ...
So you stripped everything down and now don't know how to get them back..?
Okay, once you fit your carb on the engine, you'll have a angled rubber tube (manifold) between a cylinder head and carburetor. On the side of that manifold should be a little fitting for a hose pipe. That hose pipe is sending a vacuum from manifold to a fuel pump that is located ...
As @SolarMike says in his comment - you probably didn't get all of the old oil out when you drained it, so there was probably some already in there before you started adding it from the bottle.
Keep the last 100ml for topping up later - as long as the level in the engine is between the marks you'll be fine.
Here are the instructions from this page:
ENGINE OIL CHANGE AND OIL FILTER
Check the level of the engine oil every 1,875 miles(3,000 km), see
(CHECKING THE ENGINE OIL LEVEL AND TOPPING UP).
Use oil with 5/W 40 specifications, see (LUBRICANT CHART).
When topping up engine oil, we recommend that you never exceed the "MAX" level.
Is there something I can put in the hole that can apply force outward and then twist?
Yes, there are several things made for this purpose. You didn't give measurements, but here are some options:
One is called a Jumbo Screw Extractor, routinely available up to 1.0625" and larger sizes are available. Here's a link for an inexpensive set.
One is called a ...
Instead of recreating the wheel, here are some pretty good reasons why you need to do a break-in on any engine, be it a motorcycle or a car. I found it on this page. I don't necessarily agree with everything the person says on the page, so I'll leave the rest of the reading up to you.
Every new engine has internal components that must be "...
The 'worst case scenario' that I can think of is this. Your spark plugs become fouled because the motor ran too rich and the bike doesn't start. You would need to remove the spark plugs and clean them with a carb or brake cleaner and re-install them. Don't worry about your vehicle. It's fine.
The upper hose that you found cut and zip tied is likely to be a vacuum line, rather than a fuel supply line.
(image credit www.scootusa.com)
If so, the fact that it is cut and plugged should not be causing your failure to start, it is likely an emissions-related feature that is activated when you get off the gas.
I don't think you'll have any issues. If you continue to be worried about it, you should be able to pull the caps off of the top of the battery to check the fluid level within. You should be able to see the electrolyte at almost the top. If you don't, then I would take it back to the shop where you had it fitted and get them involved in getting it up to ...
The two hoses in question can be identified by using a can of carburetor cleaner with the red hose attachment and squirting into the nipples for the hoses to see where the fluid emerges.
I suspect the nipple on the top of the carb by the auto choke could be a vacuum line. This is frequently where they are placed. The vacuum line may need to goto a petcock ...
What is the most probable cause for this?
In the most general terms, the engine isn't running because there is either too much air or too much fuel.
Can the cause be that the machine was not in use for some months?
Is it true that petrol may "become old" after some month so it does not burn anymore correctly?
It is possible, especially if the ...
It depends on the oil that you use on your scooter, If you are using heavy oil then the cold start is going to be a problem, I have a 150 cc Gy6, I use lighter oil like 5w-40 and I had no problem, but if you are using any other oil that has higher viscosity than 5w-40, you better switch back to the 5w-40.
The manual suggests 75w but most people use 5w-40. I ...